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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 27 Apr 2008 (Sunday) 00:25
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New 5D-what the heck!!!!

 
GerBee
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Apr 27, 2008 05:13 |  #16

I've copied your image and imported it into PS, from level one white picker click on the brightest part of the sail makes it really pop.

Try is on your original, :)

limeydal wrote in post #5411501 (external link)
Well took my new 5D on it's first shoot covering sailing events in San Diego Bay.!
Yuk ! what the heck is going on.
IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO




  
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Paul ­ Pagano
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Apr 27, 2008 07:12 |  #17

Higher end cameras usually meter a little darker so as not to blow out whites and lose detail. Cameras meter for middle gray, some a bit darker than others. Most amateurs don't care if they shoot white in sunlight and cannot see details in the white...they never notice. These bodies also expect that you'll be post processing and want more control over your images. Pattern metering will only cause the overall scene to be a bit darker than if evaluative metering was used.


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SkipD
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Apr 27, 2008 07:19 |  #18

Dal, my choice of metering for an event like this one would definitely be MANUAL for the camera and a handheld meter in incident mode to determine how much light is falling on the subject rather than depending on any type of reflected meter. You could use the camera's meter and a standardized gray card to get the incident reading, but it's much more awkward to use than a handheld meter.

I would absolutely NOT want an automated in-camera meter making the decisions for me because of the nature of the subject. As others have said, the large white sails will easily fool any reflected-light meter. In addition, the in-camera meter would make different decisions from shot to shot depending on what's in the viewfinder at the time.


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ijohnson
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Apr 27, 2008 07:28 |  #19

On a sunny day like this with white sails all over the place, I am very surprised that you wouldn't shoot in M. I can't imagine using anything else in that situation.


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JohnJ80
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Apr 27, 2008 09:19 |  #20

Tsmith wrote in post #5411520 (external link)
Partial metering and those white sails are probably the culprit.

Vignetting - gonna happen more with a full frame sensor than the APS-C.

Agreed.

Dial in +0.5-1EC if you put your center AF point (where the metering is - in the circle surrounding it). With the white sales against the darker blue sky, you pretty much got an 18% metered solution out of the camera - just what it is supposed to do.

You can try this in PS by adjusting exposure to see if this is it. Try to get it right in the camera.


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JohnJ80
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Apr 27, 2008 09:25 |  #21

SkipD wrote in post #5412521 (external link)
Dal, my choice of metering for an event like this one would definitely be MANUAL for the camera and a handheld meter in incident mode to determine how much light is falling on the subject rather than depending on any type of reflected meter. You could use the camera's meter and a standardized gray card to get the incident reading, but it's much more awkward to use than a handheld meter.

I would absolutely NOT want an automated in-camera meter making the decisions for me because of the nature of the subject. As others have said, the large white sails will easily fool any reflected-light meter. In addition, the in-camera meter would make different decisions from shot to shot depending on what's in the viewfinder at the time.

I shoot yacht racing and boats all the time. You don't need to shoot it in manual and I wouldn't.

Put the 5D in spot metering - aim the center spot at the sails and dial in +1 EC (maybe a touch more). This will be easy because of the size of the sails in relation to your frame. Very helpful if you separate the AF from the exposure with the custom configs and use the * button for AF control.

If you were trying to shoot this from another boat (<40'), a handheld meter and/or gray card is just not going to cut it. Too much stuff to fool with and no time to do it since the boats are moving surprisingly fast.

J.


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runninmann
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Apr 27, 2008 09:40 |  #22

OP, off topic, but I think your calendar is incorrect. EXIF shows 4/27/08 image date.


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nicksan
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Apr 27, 2008 09:43 as a reply to  @ post 5412209 |  #23

I agree. Use spot metering and meter off of the white sails. You might blow out the sails depening on how much light is shining on them. It depends.




  
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Photography ­ Krazee
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Apr 27, 2008 09:53 |  #24

Now, now ya all!! One thing I have noticed on POTN is that some members can be quite snotty and sarcastic at times.

Come on...give people a break and respond with constructive criticism. Even if peeved, good natureness is appropriate and polite.




  
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limeydal
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Apr 27, 2008 10:34 as a reply to  @ Photography Krazee's post |  #25

Runninman, thanks for the info; on the date! All set now.
Krazee, thanks for the concern :D
Lots to try out and will see what works best for me.
As JohnJ says, I dont have much time to "mess around"in the type of shooting I do.
So need a workable way, to shoot yachts while bobbing around on a 20ft Inflatable.
Maybe should have stuck to the "Amateur cameras" :oops:
Appreciatte all the imput;
cheers Dal




  
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totalbeginner
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Apr 27, 2008 10:40 as a reply to  @ Photography Krazee's post |  #26

I'm using the 5D and this would be my advice...

Put the camera in manual mode. If it's a cloudless day, then it's unlikely that the light is going to change dramatically over short periods. Take a spot meter reading, followed by a test shot and then check the histogram.

Now that you're in manual, the camera won't change the Av or Tv values and you should get consistent exposures. In an automatic or semi-automatic mode, I find that when shooting scenes with a large dynamic range, the meter is fooled by the extremes and you get very inconsistent results.

If the sun's dipping in and out of the clouds, then I would suggest using Tv or Av and dialling in some EC.


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dekalbSTEEL
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Apr 27, 2008 10:54 |  #27

limeydal wrote in post #5413181 (external link)
Runninman, thanks for the info; on the date! All set now.
Krazee, thanks for the concern :D
Lots to try out and will see what works best for me.
As JohnJ says, I dont have much time to "mess around"in the type of shooting I do.
So need a workable way, to shoot yachts while bobbing around on a 20ft Inflatable.
Maybe should have stuck to the "Amateur cameras" :oops:
Appreciatte all the imput;
cheers Dal

Hire a driver;)


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Grentz
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Apr 27, 2008 11:03 |  #28

Looks like you got 18% grey on the sails in the first pic ;)

I dont have anything to add really though, I think you have gotten some great advice from those above.


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JohnJ80
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Apr 27, 2008 11:20 |  #29

totalbeginner wrote in post #5413201 (external link)
I'm using the 5D and this would be my advice...

Put the camera in manual mode. If it's a cloudless day, then it's unlikely that the light is going to change dramatically over short periods. Take a spot meter reading, followed by a test shot and then check the histogram.

Now that you're in manual, the camera won't change the Av or Tv values and you should get consistent exposures. In an automatic or semi-automatic mode, I find that when shooting scenes with a large dynamic range, the meter is fooled by the extremes and you get very inconsistent results.

If the sun's dipping in and out of the clouds, then I would suggest using Tv or Av and dialling in some EC.

You see, that is exactly the problem when shooting sailing. The light does change quite dramatically on the boat as it moves in relation to the sun and pitching due to the sea state. The sails can cast large shadows over the boat, or be quite dark in one orientation and then completely the opposite in another orientation. It can happen even with relatively small shifts in the trim of the sails or quickly when the boat tacks. So, it really isn't a static lighting situation.

Also, in order to get decent up close sailing shots, 90% of the time you need to be on another boat (or in an aircraft) unless - by chance - the boats are close to shore and you have some really long glass. Since pretty much any boat <40' is not a stable platform you often are in the mode of "one hand for yourself, one had for the boat." Most shooting of this nature is done from much smaller boats than that because of the maneuverability required to get to good shooting positions. That makes it quite difficult for any fooling with anything.

So, while in general I agree with the manual metering comments for outdoor bright shooting, I don't agree with it in this particular case. It is probably the most dynamic shooting situation I am in with both the shooting platform being unstable and the rapidly changing light.

J.


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sevans16
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Apr 27, 2008 11:46 |  #30

why not use Matrix metering? I find that I generally get better results with Matrix, I also use Spot metering but find that pictures are not consistent frame to frame. Use your histogram!! Oh yeah USE your Histogram!!


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New 5D-what the heck!!!!
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