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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Lenses 
Thread started 22 Dec 2008 (Monday) 23:57
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soft 17-40mm F4L lens?

 
Denton
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Dec 22, 2008 23:57 |  #1

I have recently acquired a used Canon 17-40mm F4L lens...and it seems to be a little soft compared to my other lenses that I use on my Canon 30D bodies.
Is this typical when using this particular lens on a cropped sensor?
If not, what would Canon charge to recalibrate the lens?




  
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Tony-S
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Dec 22, 2008 23:59 |  #2

It's not uncommon to get a 17-40L that's a bit soft at f/4, but it should sharpen quite nicely by f/5.6. Does it sharpen up by then? A trip to Canon can be an adventure - anywhere from a hundred to three hundred bucks.


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Denton
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Dec 23, 2008 00:03 as a reply to  @ Tony-S's post |  #3

Will run some more tests...shots were at F4. Will run some more tests.




  
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Tony-S
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Dec 23, 2008 00:07 |  #4

Keep in mind this lens is engineered as an ultrawide angle lens for a full-frame camera. Using it on a crop sensor camera restricts its potential a bit. If you can shoot it at f/5.6 (not ideal for a walk-around lens) it should perform admirably. I had it once and sold it to get the Sigma 18-50 f/2.8. Now that I have a full-frame sensor I'm planning to pick it up again (and of course, will now be selling the 18-50 :( ).


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Denton
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Dec 23, 2008 00:09 as a reply to  @ Tony-S's post |  #5

I have one of those little Siggys...pre macro version...very nice lens.




  
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Tony-S
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Dec 23, 2008 00:10 |  #6

Hmm. Why did you pick up the 17-40L then?


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Denton
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Dec 23, 2008 00:16 as a reply to  @ Tony-S's post |  #7

Was going to get a 5D, but plans had changed after getting the lens and pricing 5D's. Also got to thinking back when I ran a Canon A2 and 24mm was plenty wide for me...so if I do wind up with a 5D, will probably stick with my 24mm f2.8 and the recent 28-135 usm lens I recently got.
Also have 50 1.4 and 85 1.8 canon primes, Tamron 90mm macro and a 100-400mm is canon L lens I keep permantly stuck on a second 30d body.




  
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Perry ­ Ge
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Dec 23, 2008 08:05 |  #8

The 17-40L is known for being a lot sharper at 17mm than at 40mm. This is consistent with my copy, which I'm really happy with. At 17mm, it's frighteningly sharp - it gives my 200L a run for its money, which is INSANE. At 40mm, it's good, but certainly nowhere near as impressive as it is at 17mm.


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sapearl
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Dec 23, 2008 08:09 |  #9

Denton - no insult intended but I will asked the obvious: do you by any chance have an inexpensive filter on this lens right now?


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Denton
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Dec 23, 2008 08:12 as a reply to  @ sapearl's post |  #10

No...




  
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Perry ­ Ge
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Dec 23, 2008 08:13 |  #11

Oh by the way this thread is useless without pics. Post some samples.


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Denton
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Dec 23, 2008 08:20 as a reply to  @ Perry Ge's post |  #12

perryg...nice lens list!
Do you have any qualms about switching prime lenses with the dust issues?
I have been giving some thought about picking up a 3rd 30D body and getting rid of the zooms...except for the 100-400 L glass.




  
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Perry ­ Ge
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Dec 23, 2008 08:23 |  #13

Denton wrote in post #6932143 (external link)
perryg...nice lens list!
Do you have any qualms about switching prime lenses with the dust issues?
I have been giving some thought about picking up a 3rd 30D body and getting rid of the zooms...except for the 100-400 L glass.

Thank you :D. The 35L is next, and then I'm done (yeah, right), though I might swap the 200L for a 135L.

What dust issues? I don't have issues with switching lenses since I'm used to shooting with primes and I plan well ahead. Dust is easy to clean. I'd sooner buy more bodies than more zoom glass. Each lens serves a purpose. 17-40 for landscapes. 85L for glamour/portraits. 400 for birds. 200 for candids, headshots, landscapes, and street.

I keep the 17-40L as a dedicated landscape lens because it lets me zoom in a bit to eliminate all vignetting from my GND filter holders.


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WhyFi
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Dec 23, 2008 09:21 |  #14

When I first got my 17-40, there were times when I thought that it could be a little sharper... but then I realized that it had more to do with the wide FOV than anything else. Wide FOV = fewer pixels to resolve individual details and you're usually much further away from objects/subjects.


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sapearl
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Dec 23, 2008 09:38 |  #15

Denton, have you shot a lot of pictures under a wide variety of lighting conditions? If you still have problems in bright sunlight at a high shutter speed with a midrange aperture, then I'd say you may have some issues. But if it was done in a low contrast, dim environment, that's not a reliable test.

It's difficult to tell without some sample images.


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soft 17-40mm F4L lens?
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