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Thread started 20 Jan 2009 (Tuesday) 08:17
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1DMK2 does hockey @ ISO3200

 
Lacks_focus
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Jan 20, 2009 08:17 |  #1

I'd long since given up on ISO 3200 using the 1DMK2 and I'm not too fond of the look I get using Noiseware Pro. I am also getting wary of being lucky to get 1/200 @ 2.8 and ISO 1600 in my home rink, so I thought I'd experiment. These are by no means supposed to be good shots; they are just of the warm up period from the last game we played. I used 3200, but did not take advantage of the full stop it should have given me in the shutter department. I metered 1/200 @ ISO 1600. When I went to 3200, I only bumped the shutter to 1/250 or 1/320. Here's the results. First is unfiltered, the second is with Noiseware Pro's standard setting but adding a bit of sharpening. The only other PP is resize and auto levels. What do you think? Workable? Ideas for anything better??? Not sure I’m ready to use 3200 for a game, but it would be nice to have 3200 as a viable option with out having to buy a 1DMK3!

1. No filtering

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2. Unfiltered
IMAGE: http://lacks-focus.smugmug.com/photos/458342194_j6gUs-X2.jpg

2. Filtered
IMAGE: http://lacks-focus.smugmug.com/photos/458341696_fBbcV-X2.jpg

1D MKIII | FujiFilm X10 | 24-70 f/2.8 | 70-200 f/2.8 | 135 f/2 | 85 f/1.8 | 580EX |
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gazcoyle
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Jan 20, 2009 08:35 |  #2

they look very acceptably clean and with the guys covered from head to foot theres no sign of "plasticy" skin.




  
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sadler21
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Jan 20, 2009 08:55 as a reply to  @ gazcoyle's post |  #3

Looks amazing compared to what my MK1 gets at 3200! :D


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liam5100
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Jan 20, 2009 11:27 |  #4

I dont know why you have issues with noiseware, I use it all the time. I've just found the trick is to just barely use it, lower settings. Like most plugins I think the issue comes from people overusing them. My "techique" with noiseware for 3200 is the default setting on a duplicated layer, then I adjust opacity to around 80% or so.


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liam5100
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Jan 20, 2009 11:51 |  #5

Here are a couple examples.

The "before" picture is straight out of camera, NO noise reduction at all. 3200 ISO.

The 2nd is with noiseware with custom adjustment, about 10% less reduction than their "default" reduction. Then in PS I adjust the layer opacity to about 90% on this one.


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Bill -
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liam5100
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Jan 20, 2009 11:55 |  #6

Not to mention "web" viewing isn unforgivable anyway. If the images are going to be printed in any fashion, that in itself will greatly reduce alot of the noise issues. Thats why I just do a "touch" of reduction, since most of my shots are on assignment, they are often destined for print. No need to overdo the NR.


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Zethar
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Jan 20, 2009 17:00 as a reply to  @ liam5100's post |  #7

I think those images look great after PP. More than acceptable.


1DX, 1DIV, 5DIII, A7RII, RX1RII, 14 2.8L II, 35 1.4L, 50 1.2L, 85 1.2L II, 135 2L, 16-35 2.8L II, 24-105 4L IS, 24-70 2.8L, 70-200 2.8L IS II, 300 2.8L, 400 5.6L, IS, 800 5.6L IS

  
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L.Morey
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Jan 20, 2009 19:05 |  #8

Very good shots at 3200


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Lacks_focus
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Jan 21, 2009 05:22 |  #9

liam5100 wrote in post #7117494 (external link)
I dont know why you have issues with noiseware, I use it all the time. I've just found the trick is to just barely use it, lower settings. Like most plugins I think the issue comes from people overusing them. My "techique" with noiseware for 3200 is the default setting on a duplicated layer, then I adjust opacity to around 80% or so.

Thanks for the comments. Maybe I'll shoot part of the first period in 3200 to see how it goes. I'll need to be comfortable with what I can expect and with a new PP workflow before committing to a whole game.

liam5100. Not really issues with Noiseware, more like I haven't honestly stepped beyond default settings or tried layering like you have outlined. I just don't like how it can really kill detail along with noise. Unfortunately, I have Noiseware as a stand alone program, not a plug in and I am using Photoshop Elements. I'll have to figure out how to do this in post with out increasing my work time too much.


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JustinL
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Jan 21, 2009 16:51 |  #10

I think these are workable, and like Liam already mentioned, web viewing brings out the noise big time. Print won't show as bad at all. What rink was this in? Danbury?


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Lacks_focus
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Jan 21, 2009 18:16 |  #11

JustinL wrote in post #7127497 (external link)
What rink was this in? Danbury?

Home rink is the BIP... Bolton Ice Palace. Leaving in 15 minuets to go shoot a game in Newington. We'll see how the light is there. I haven't been to that rink yet.


1D MKIII | FujiFilm X10 | 24-70 f/2.8 | 70-200 f/2.8 | 135 f/2 | 85 f/1.8 | 580EX |
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JustinL
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Jan 21, 2009 18:36 |  #12

I'm down the street from the Newington arena, not the brightest of rinks - but I can't compare it to Bolton. I haven't been to BIP since 2007


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kwkodiak
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Jan 21, 2009 21:22 |  #13

Are you getting a lot of motion blur when shooting games at 1/320? Most HS/Junior games I find that I need at least 1/500.

I shot with a 1DII last year and in some rinks I had to shoot at ISO 3200; I was never happy with the results and got a 1DIII.

I would have been happy with the 2 pics you posted

Terry


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TTurrill
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Jan 21, 2009 23:38 as a reply to  @ sadler21's post |  #14

Looks fine for 3200. What lenses were you using? 70-200 2.8?


EOS-1D - II- III- IV-EF 16-35/2.8L 300mm f/2.8L IS 28-300 3.5-5.6 L IS USM- EF 15 2.8 FISH EYE- EF 70-200 2.8L IS USM
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Lacks_focus
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Jan 22, 2009 06:38 |  #15

JustinL wrote in post #7128206 (external link)
I'm down the street from the Newington arena, not the brightest of rinks - but I can't compare it to Bolton. I haven't been to BIP since 2007

I ended up with 1/320 & 2.8 @ 1600. That was through the glass. I shot some of the pregame stuff from the bench (no glass) and could have used 1/500 no problem. The glass was clean, but you still loose a lot. Nice rink. I really need to start bringing a small ladder. Glass sucks! By comparison, in Bolton I get 1/200 - 1/250 no glass. That was what prompted me to try ISO3200 again.

kwkodiak wrote in post #7151802 (external link)
Are you getting a lot of motion blur when shooting games at 1/320? Most HS/Junior games I find that I need at least 1/500.

Some, yes. It has come down to knowing what will work, timing wise, and just expecting some foot, hand, puck, and stick blur. Like someone mentioned in a thread discussing shutter speed and sports, the motion can add to the picture. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

A MK3 would be nice though! Hard to justify the $$$ right now.

TTurrill wrote in post #7160276 (external link)
Looks fine for 3200. What lenses were you using? 70-200 2.8?

Thanks, and yes.


1D MKIII | FujiFilm X10 | 24-70 f/2.8 | 70-200 f/2.8 | 135 f/2 | 85 f/1.8 | 580EX |
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1DMK2 does hockey @ ISO3200
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