STICKY: How about all you "Macro Pros" giving some Tips?

Hello Andrew, It's actually "REVERSING" the lens, and there are special adapter rings you can buy that will mount onto the camera body, and the other side of the adpter will have a set of threads (Threads are available in various different sizes to fit different size lens filter threads.) The idea is to mount a lens (Usually a 50mm) backwards on the camera body, and some will mount the backwards lens onto the end of another lens that is mounted right way around.
A reversed lens will focus extremely close, but all settings will need to be handled manually, including focus.
There are several different options for shooting true macro.

Extension rings enable a standard lens to focus much closer than it normally would.

You could pick a macro lens that is designed to focus extremely close from the factory.

Reversing the lens is of course one of the options.

If you want to get into extreme macro of static objects, you might want to have a look at this thread, https://photography-on-the.net …d.php?p=683965#​post683965

I hope this has answered some of your questions.
-Bruce

Very much so! Thank you!

-Andrew

Andrew, you can couple 2 lens like I have in the below picture. Like Bruce said, you can really get close doing it this way. Here I have my cheap Sigma 28-80 lens mounted on the camera, with another cheap lens the Kalimar 50 f/1.7 lens mounted face to face together. You need a cheap *lens coupler* in what ever size you need. B&H and other companies sell these very cheap.

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you need an adepter to revers the lens it lets you get closer, i take mine with just a closeup filter on my 85mm lens when i use the mk2 ,not as good as a true macro but im pleased with what i get.
my tip here is take lots of shots moreso if its flying dont waite to get it right take the shot then try and make it right if it gives you another chance.
Rob.

Hers my tip, pics can be viewed here
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=89248

Watch insects as they fly around a plant collecting nectare and see where they land from stem to stem a pattern usally occurs, now prefocus on a stem you think they will fly to, be patient and sooner or later a chance will arrive to catch them in flight, this is what i do cause ive found it nearly impossiable to focus on a moving subject in flight with out prefocus
Martin
www.digital-monochrome.com

From the look of those photos, I'd say this is a good tip.
-Bruce

I've never actually reversed a lense but as I understand it you get an adapter that mounts to the front of the lens and attach it backward.

Many normal lenses have a macro function but most don't capture 1 to 1 (lifesize). You need a true macro lens for that. You can also get pretty good results with extension tubes and macro screw-on lenses but for the best result you need a dedicated macro lens. The Canon 2.8 100 macro is regarded as "L" quality and isn't *that* expensive (relatively speaking). It also works well as a 100mm prime lens.

See the link below:

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=75127

A ring flash? Here's my own, cheap flash for my G3. I do not remember where I saw a description of how to make this but the idea is not mine. This works well with the G3 I suppose it can be applied to any camera... Cost is just a few cents and a few minutes of work

1. Take some white, simple plastic jar (i used a sour-cream jar)
2. Remove all labels and colours from it
3. Cut a hole suitable for your lens (make it tight)
4. Apply it on the outer part of your lens
5. Cover the flash with a piece of white paper

The examples below are taken using that piece of equipment. The frog is a 6 cm high ceramic frog. The first picture is with the built in flash only, and the second with the 'ring flash' mounted. The flower bud is also with the 'ring flash'....

G3owner

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Click on the link here after and you'll find one of my macro
setups (including picture of it).
Also, I just found yesterday that a simple wood pole worked
as well as the monopod.
That is very good because you can use the pole when walking and
then no need to attach to take the picture it's very fast, but
you have to find the "hand technique" to hold the camera steady
against the pole.
Rgds
Jose

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=97738

Sorry images rather big-new to this uploading game! Is this better?

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If I could only pick one it would be EXTENSION TUBES,without a doubt, the best macro tool I have.

Macro definition

Think the official defintion is shots taken at 1:1 or more. I take a more relaxed approach at any shot that shows more detail than you can see with the naked eye.
Brian V.

My macro tips

I know I'm only a Newbe here, but I have been getting some good results this Summer.
I was requested to do some macro tips on the photo site Flickr- you can find them here. You can of course see some of the results in my photosets on flickr (link in sig)
http://www.flickr.com/​groups/mimicry/discuss​/66514/

Brian V.

For me, the most important thing in macro is the light.
I always use a small softbox on my flash.
Or when i shoot insects indoors, in an improvised studio, i use reflectors too.
Setup (do'nt laugh): http://members.lycos.n​l …ign2/Macro/opst​elling.jpg
Result: http://members.lycos.n​l/eddysign2/Macro/fair​y16.jpg

And when i use my stacked lenses setup (100mm macro+ reversed 50mm) i use a cardboard ring reflector (r).
http://members.lycos.n​l/eddysign/ringflitser​2.jpg
Samples: http://members.lycos.n​l/eddysign/Macro/zweef​1.jpg
http://members.lycos.n​l/eddysign2/Macro/spri​ng2.jpg
http://members.lycos.n​l/eddysign/Macro/torre​tje1.jpg