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Thread started 16 Jul 2009 (Thursday) 21:00
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Sensor cleaning woes

 
Duncan ­ Frenz
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Jul 17, 2009 20:17 as a reply to  @ post 8299175 |  #16

Thomas has it exactly right, the pre-moistened ones are probably too wet. The other thing to avoid is touching the sides and smearing lube all over the sensor. Even the smallest quantity can make a mess.


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dan ­ j
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Jul 17, 2009 21:01 |  #17

Wow, that's quite a horror story. Glad the story has a good ending. I don't have a local shop so I'm on my own so I started a poll trying to figure out the most popular method. I figure there's safety in numbers; that the most used is hopefully the best.

Hopefully.

dan


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ThomasOwenM
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Jul 17, 2009 22:05 |  #18

dan j wrote in post #8299332 (external link)
Wow, that's quite a horror story. Glad the story has a good ending. I don't have a local shop so I'm on my own so I started a poll trying to figure out the most popular method. I figure there's safety in numbers; that the most used is hopefully the best.

Hopefully.

dan

The most used isn't necessarily the best, but it is the one you can get the most support on since so many people use it. I don't always get my sensor spotless on the first try. Sometimes it takes me 3 or 4 tries. The first time I did it, it took me something like 15 to 18 tries.

It really helps a lot to have a SensorScope. That way you can just look at the sensor and see all the dust without having to do a narrow aperture shot of a blank screen or sky and then upload your images.

The other method I want to try is the SensorKlear lens pen. I've heard good things about it, but since I haven't actually used it I can't say if it's better than wet swab cleaning.


===============
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dan ­ j
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Jul 17, 2009 22:13 |  #19

I was thinking that the Sensor Klear would be great to keep in the bag for when you're out and catch a dust bunny.

Speaking of SensorScope, here's what's on Copperhill's site. Obviously the price is right.
http://www.copperhilli​mages.com …ore_information​.php?id=47 (external link)

dan


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ThomasOwenM
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Jul 18, 2009 09:55 as a reply to  @ dan j's post |  #20

Here's my latest effort.

Before:

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


After:
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


It took me three swabs and about 15 minutes. Using the SensorScope made a huge difference. It's much easier now than it used to be since I can immediately look through the scope and see if I was successful. The Delkin kit guide recommends against using a blower, but I used one anyway. They say to use the sensor vacuum in the kit instead to avoid dispersing dust and having it settle down. I used the vaccuum, but found it limited. With the blower, I held the camera up with the sensor facing the ground and blew a bunch of air. I figured holding it this way would avoid having the dust settle back into the sensor.

It seems to have worked. These are the best results I've ever gotten. Sometimes I'll settle for leaving a tiny speck of dust since it won't affect image quality much and I can clone it out.

This is the kit I'm using:
http://www.adorama.com …chinfo=Delkin+S​ensorScope (external link)

===============
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RandallC
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Jul 18, 2009 13:33 as a reply to  @ ThomasOwenM's post |  #21

That's a great result! Good job.

The sensor swabs did seem too wet. Although for one of my attempts I let the swab air dry for a while before using it and it still didn't work, so it's probably my technique more than anything else.

The shop I took it to uses a stereo microscope and a combination of air, brushes, dry and wet swabs to essentially pick off the dust. I could see how the sensor scope would be a big help.

Next time I get a small speck I think I'll give the sensorpen a try too. Have heard good things about it.


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bohdank
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Jul 18, 2009 14:36 |  #22

The Sensorscope is a good product. You can see even smudges.

EDIT: I should ahve said Sensorview from Copperhill.


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dan ­ j
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Jul 18, 2009 14:49 |  #23

I think I'm going to get the SensorView from Copperhill. At $15 I figured it was worth a try. Seems very similar to the SensorScope, but much smaller and less money.

dan


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number ­ six
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Jul 18, 2009 15:05 |  #24

dan j wrote in post #8302432 (external link)
I think I'm going to get the SensorView from Copperhill. At $15 I figured it was worth a try. Seems very similar to the SensorScope, but much smaller and less money.

dan

I have one. It's very handy. But no substitute for taking test pictures at small apertures.

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dan ­ j
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Jul 18, 2009 15:11 |  #25

Thanks. It seems like a great deal and idea.

dan


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sodalis
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Jul 18, 2009 15:18 |  #26

dan j wrote in post #8302432 (external link)
I think I'm going to get the SensorView from Copperhill. At $15 I figured it was worth a try. Seems very similar to the SensorScope, but much smaller and less money.

dan

The SensorView works very well. I do most of my cleaning with the Sensor Klear pen, then check for any problem spots with the SensorView. If something is left on the sensor I will try a few targeted swabs with the pen, and if it refuses to come off I will wet clean. The pen is all I need for probably 9 out of 10 cleanings.



  
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Somba1
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Jul 18, 2009 15:25 as a reply to  @ number six's post |  #27

If you use canned air make sure you don't tilt the can - keep it horizontal - you don't want to get propellent on the sensor and glaze it over.

I use a sensorscope too from Delkin - it told me what I suspected - my expensive artic butterfly 724 brush from VisibleDust was worthless. It ends up depositing more junk than it takes off. Even after I soaked the brush in the cleaning solution they recommend.

I have found canned air up close to the sensor - 4 mm - works some but not always. When it really gets dirty you have to use a wet/dry swab. Using as little liquid as possible makes sense otherwise you have to really rub with the dry swab to get all the smears off. Some liquids smear more than others though. Some even leave a film.

I've tried those vacuum methods but the trouble is you can't see the dust so by the time you clean the whole sensor the can of air is empty. Sensorscope showed this method was not working. Then there is the outfit that has a special vacuum wand that actually touches the sensor to vacuum it. Haven't tried that one, again, I would think you'd run out of air on one cleaning.

I don't run out of air anymore. I hooked up a manual nozzle to the 2nd stage of a small pony bottle SCUBA tank. I fill it up once a year! One blast with this and it's pretty clean but not 100%. That electrostatic charge between the dust and the sensor is a tough nut to crack!


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dan ­ j
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Jul 18, 2009 15:33 |  #28

sodalis wrote in post #8302593 (external link)
The SensorView works very well. I do most of my cleaning with the Sensor Klear pen, then check for any problem spots with the SensorView. If something is left on the sensor I will try a few targeted swabs with the pen, and if it refuses to come off I will wet clean. The pen is all I need for probably 9 out of 10 cleanings.

Cool, thanks. That SensorKlear pen gets lots of good reviews too.

dan


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dan ­ j
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Jul 18, 2009 15:37 |  #29

Somba1 wrote in post #8302642 (external link)
If you use canned air make sure you don't tilt the can - keep it horizontal - you don't want to get propellent on the sensor and glaze it over.

I use a sensorscope too from Delkin - it told me what I suspected - my expensive artic butterfly 724 brush from VisibleDust was worthless. It ends up depositing more junk than it takes off. Even after I soaked the brush in the cleaning solution they recommend.

I have found canned air up close to the sensor - 4 mm - works some but not always. When it really gets dirty you have to use a wet/dry swab. Using as little liquid as possible makes sense otherwise you have to really rub with the dry swab to get all the smears off. Some liquids smear more than others though. Some even leave a film.

I've tried those vacuum methods but the trouble is you can't see the dust so by the time you clean the whole sensor the can of air is empty. Sensorscope showed this method was not working. Then there is the outfit that has a special vacuum wand that actually touches the sensor to vacuum it. Haven't tried that one, again, I would think you'd run out of air on one cleaning.

I don't run out of air anymore. I hooked up a manual nozzle to the 2nd stage of a small pony bottle SCUBA tank. I fill it up once a year! One blast with this and it's pretty clean but not 100%. That electrostatic charge between the dust and the sensor is a tough nut to crack!

How hard are you rubbing? I've read to not push harder than you would writing and I've read not to push harder than you would with an eraser. I'm probably going to stick with the pencil comparison. Anyone want to admit to cracking the sensor or screen?

The SensorKlear pen is said to help with the charge, FWIW.

dan


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Somba1
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Jul 18, 2009 17:57 as a reply to  @ dan j's post |  #30

not rubbing hard just a lot. Not even has hard as with an eraser!


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Sensor cleaning woes
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