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Thread started 28 Sep 2004 (Tuesday) 08:06
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Focus with Shutter or * [AF ON] button? -READ ME-

 
Wilt
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Nov 01, 2005 10:59 |  #181

Oops, choice D should have stated
D) did you grow up with manual cameras and do you use shutter button and *]


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sonnyc
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Nov 01, 2005 15:59 |  #182

I switch it back and forth but mostly keep it at 4-1. I learned photography on manual focus with "match-needle" focusing cameras and then auto focusing with the Canon T series.


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lmh5107
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Nov 01, 2005 16:34 as a reply to  @ post 300987 |  #183

JLS Photo wrote:
In other words, the standard method is to half press the shutter button--this will lock in AF (or servo mode) AND lock in exposure. However, if you subject moves from light to dark with the shutter button half pressed, your exposure will be off at the time of firing.

hi, JLS Photo
I have tested on my 20D, using Av mode, AI SERVO, C.Fn 04-0

when I half press the shutter button, it didn't lock the exposure
if I move to another subject (while keep half pressing the shutter button)
the exposure(shutter speed in this case(AV)) also changes. I don't understand why you said that the expousre is locked. Or maybe I misunderstand something.


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judyg
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Nov 01, 2005 20:42 as a reply to  @ post 889763 |  #184

Wilt wrote:
[and a poll: I'd like to hear responses about
A) did you grow up with fully automatic cameras and do you use shutter button for all, or
B) did you grow up with fully automatic cameras and do you use shutter button and *, or
C) did you grow up with manual cameras and do you use shutter button for all, or
D) did you grow up with fully automatic cameras and do you use shutter button and *]

My hypothesis on individual preferences...
For those who are like me, growing up with manual focus, match-needle metering, the separation of focus and exposure to the * and the shutter button are natural, since we are so accustomed to focusing then matching needles then pressing the shutter. Then later, adding AE lock metering, adapting to 1) focus, then 2) AE lock on the desired area, then 3) recomposing and 4) pressing shutter is easy. Now 1) autofocus with * and lock focus with release, then 2) AE lock on the desired area, then 3) recomposing and 4) pressing shutter rest of way is easy.
But I think if you grew up on automated P&S and later automagic film SLR cameras of the 80's and 90's, using the shutter button to both focus and set exposure, relying on a one-button sequence is all you ever knew and it more awkward to adapt.

I think you're right. I grew up using manual focus cameras, and I use 4-1. It makes sense to me to focus before pressing the shutter.




  
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DayHawk
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Nov 11, 2005 08:53 |  #185

guys, i am fairly new to these boards, and i have to say.
i have doubled my knowledge in the photography area.
this feature would properly never have been used by me if i hadn't read this thread.
thank you so much! :)

one question tho, when i have it set to 4-1 i use the AE lock everytime i take a phoo (since its on the shutter release button)
how should i use this properly? and what does it do exactly.
thanks in advance

Regards

Nick D. Pedersen


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wannasmaxx
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Nov 11, 2005 11:10 as a reply to  @ DayHawk's post |  #186

I take back anything I said that was bad about CF4-1. I LOVE it. I've been shooting ISST's for the past 2 days and have found it Amazing.


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DayHawk
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Nov 11, 2005 11:14 |  #187

any answers to my last question there? :) i don't quite understand AE lock and if i should be using it (the 4-1 option) all the time.
again sorry if this has been answered before but couldn't find any threads with a direct answer for me :)

Regards

Nick D. Pedersen

Ps. i too LOVE the CF4-1 config, so nice with a steady focus.


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HJMinard
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Nov 11, 2005 13:31 as a reply to  @ DayHawk's post |  #188

DayHawk wrote:
any answers to my last question there? :) i don't quite understand AE lock and if i should be using it (the 4-1 option) all the time

AE lock is most frequently used (by me, at least) for a (static) high contrast scene. You can aim the camera at a particular element ... lock the exposure (half press of shutter with 4-1), and then recompose (keeping shutter half-pressed) and fully depress the shutter button. Examples: (1) for a sunset scene you may want to expose for the sky so you aim the camera at the sky, half-press the shutter and hold it while recomposing the scene (silhouetted trees, etc.) and then fully press to activate the shutter; (2) for a backlit scene you would likely want to lock exposure on the foreground element and then recompose the scene before fully activating the shutter button.

There's no harm in using it all of the time but you may find situations where 4-3 (focus with "*" but there is no AE lock) works better. For example when photographing animals that are moving in and out of shadows ... Cfn 4-3 does not set exposure until you activate the shutter so it will properly expose the scene at that exact moment. With 4-1 you might inadvertantly half-press the shutter (lock exposure) while the critter is in a shadow and then activate the shutter when it's in bright light. Result ... overexposure.


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DayHawk
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Nov 11, 2005 14:55 |  #189

thank you m8, that was an awesome explenation, i think i understand it now hehe :)
i will keep the 4-1 config beacuse i do mostly portraits these days.
thank you all for this nice thread.

Regards

Nick D. Pedersen


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andrea31419
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Jan 05, 2006 14:55 as a reply to  @ post 326160 |  #190

maderito wrote:
Sorry ... smal detail. :) Set CF4-1 (or CF4-3) and Select AI Servo Mode. Then ...

When you press the * button and hold, you're in AI Servo Mode. Fire away with your shots.

When you press the * button, establish focus and release, you have locked focus as in One Shot mode. Take your shot whenever you're ready, re-composing if appropriate.

Imagine the circumstance when you're primarily interested in capturing basketball action with AI Servo predictive focusing. You've been mashing the * button. Then a foul is commited and a player steps to the foul line. The action pauses, but you're ready. You focus on the player's face and release the * button. You've locked the focus and you're ready to capture the winning foul shout.

This is exactly what I needed to know...thanks.

A.




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EOSX
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Jan 08, 2006 20:35 |  #191

I have a 350D. I changed the CF4-1 and the * button works to focus, AI Servo and the shutter button works to take the picture. My problem is that I can't seem to pick the AF focus points. I changed the AF focus points to select all instead of the center point. Am I doing everything correctly?


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Tempura
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Jan 08, 2006 23:12 as a reply to  @ EOSX's post |  #192

I use the crosskeys to change AF points with my thumb (which is a lot better than using the dial), so it makes no sense for me to use * to lock focus, am I correct?




  
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SkipD
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Jan 09, 2006 06:19 as a reply to  @ Tempura's post |  #193

Tempura wrote:
I use the crosskeys to change AF points with my thumb (which is a lot better than using the dial), so it makes no sense for me to use * to lock focus, am I correct?

Nope - not correct. The reason to use the * to achieve focus is to provide you with CONTROL over the camera so that you can separate the focus function from actually taking the photograph.

The reason for changing the AF point would be so that you would not need to re-frame the image as much after focussing. However, the action of the center focus point (at least in the 20D) is much different from the other focus points, and many of us choose to lock the camera to use the center focus point only.


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René ­ Damkot
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Jan 15, 2006 11:53 as a reply to  @ lmh5107's post |  #194

lmh5107 wrote:
hi, JLS Photo
I have tested on my 20D, using Av mode, AI SERVO, C.Fn 04-0
when I half press the shutter button, it didn't lock the exposure

Bit of a late answer:
AE is only locked in ONE SHOT.

Also update on my problems with CFn 4-3:
On rob Galbraiths Forum, Chuck Westfall answerd the question a while ago:

Chuck Westfall wrote:
Actually, we already have a request in to Canon Inc. to provide a new CF or PF that would allow the photographer to decide whether or not AE lock should be engaged as soon as the shutter button is pressed halfway, regardless of the metering pattern.

This would provide more flexibility than the current arrangement, which is important because there are a lot of differing opinions on this point. For example, photographers like you would apparently prefer to have the meter reading update itself in real time, all the time, whereas others (especially certain wedding photographers I know) want to be able to lock exposure instantly in any metering pattern as long as the shutter button is pressed halfway, without being forced to autofocus from the back button of the camera.

To each their own...<g>

(And yes, the 10D appears to be the only EOS digital with a CF4-3 capability that lets Evaluative meter readings update in real time when the camera is set to One-Shot AF.)

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Camera Division/Canon U.S.A., Inc."


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russell22
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Jan 21, 2006 04:19 as a reply to  @ René Damkot's post |  #195

OK my experience with trying my 5D CF 4-1 using * for focus.

I shot for 2 days taking the same style of shooting 1 day on standard focusing , 2nd day on * focusing.

While I completely agree that the STYLE of shootinh with the * button is much much better, I found that more of my shots were in better focus using the standard shutter button focus method.

I would love to swap to using the "*" button but just too many shots were off focus.

For a static item that is not moving I have the "*" method locked onto the new "C" mode on the 5D. But normal shooting I use the shutter button.




  
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