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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 28 Oct 2009 (Wednesday) 19:04
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Am i being fussy? 70-200 2.8 IS

 
AMD87
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Oct 29, 2009 11:03 |  #16

crn3371 wrote in post #8917719 (external link)
All of the 70-200 L's are sharp, the F4 IS just happens to be the sharpest. I wouldn't base your decision on sharpness, I'd base it on whether you need (or want) F2.8 over F4. If you don't care about the extra stop of light then go with the F4.

The thing is though sharpness is basicly everything to me and if i have to decrease the apeture to get a sharper image then it would be better getting the 4 IS over the 2.8 IS and if the light does get too less i still have change left over for the 50 1.4 which would suit it more?

The 2.8 would be really useful but if i cant get a sharp image < F4 i think of an advantage if i can get the f4 and 50 1.4 for the same price which would give sharper images in normal light (70-200) and lower light (50 1.4)


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Oct 29, 2009 13:18 |  #17

I sincerely doubt that you could tell the difference between the F2.8 stopped down to F4 and the F4 wide open. To me it really comes down to whether you need F2.8 or not.




  
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GilesGuthrie
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Oct 29, 2009 14:11 |  #18

AMD87 wrote in post #8917901 (external link)
The thing is though sharpness is basicly everything to me and if i have to decrease the apeture to get a sharper image then it would be better getting the 4 IS over the 2.8 IS and if the light does get too less i still have change left over for the 50 1.4 which would suit it more?

The 2.8 would be really useful but if i cant get a sharp image < F4 i think of an advantage if i can get the f4 and 50 1.4 for the same price which would give sharper images in normal light (70-200) and lower light (50 1.4)

I think your shutter speeds were too slow in your sample images, and you're looking at shake rather than softness. The 2.8IS is - to me - a fantastic lens. I find it very satisfying to use. The wide aperture allows precise focussing, and it offers all the DOF control of a prime with the flexibility of the zoom. Yes, you sacrifice some sharpness, but what 70-200 2.8 allows you to do is get shots that other lenses won't allow. Like this one:

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I know you're (the OP) into motorsport. Check out my Doune galleries (like this one: http://giles-guthrie.com/gallery/20​090621/ (external link)) where most of the shots are taken with the lens.

It's a banker. It's not the last word in sharpness, sure. But it gets shots that no other lens can. Check out the church shots in this set: http://www.giles-guthrie.com/gallery/20​080920/ (external link) That's 1/30s, hand held, 200mm at ISO 1600.

Yes, lots of money, but worth it in my view.

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Oct 29, 2009 14:13 |  #19

I was the same as you when I got my copy last August. However I kept using it and came to accept that it won't be sharp wide open. But still best invesment in my camera gear so far.


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amfoto1
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Oct 29, 2009 14:47 |  #20

Here's what's wrong with your lens... The person standing behind it. ;)

You need to stop staring at 100% images on your computer.... you'll probably never print them anywhere near that large and your monitor is not likely to show all the detail that's actually there.

Go shoot pictures. Enjoy.


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AMD87
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Oct 29, 2009 15:09 |  #21

GilesGuthrie wrote in post #8919097 (external link)
I think your shutter speeds were too slow in your sample images, and you're looking at shake rather than softness. The 2.8IS is - to me - a fantastic lens. I find it very satisfying to use. The wide aperture allows precise focussing, and it offers all the DOF control of a prime with the flexibility of the zoom. Yes, you sacrifice some sharpness, but what 70-200 2.8 allows you to do is get shots that other lenses won't allow. Like this one:

I know you're (the OP) into motorsport. Check out my Doune galleries (like this one: http://giles-guthrie.com/gallery/20​090621/ (external link)) where most of the shots are taken with the lens.

It's a banker. It's not the last word in sharpness, sure. But it gets shots that no other lens can. Check out the church shots in this set: http://www.giles-guthrie.com/gallery/20​080920/ (external link) That's 1/30s, hand held, 200mm at ISO 1600.

Yes, lots of money, but worth it in my view.

Thanks giles,although wouldnt the last 2 picture cure the camera shake more? To me the first picture seems the clearest but the other took arent as much but i guess that could be iso?

the later pictures in the doune gallery,were they took using the 2.8?

Here's what's wrong with your lens... The person standing behind it.

no question that no doubt has something to do with it :lol:

You need to stop staring at 100% images on your computer.... you'll probably never print them anywhere near that large and your monitor is not likely to show all the detail that's actually there.

Not true! i actually have alot of pictures printed off at full size and framed!


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Oct 29, 2009 15:38 |  #22

I use my 70-200 f/2.8 IS for shooting indoor sports like volleyball and basketball. I couldn't be happier. When I do mess up it is usually operator error (got in a hurry, excited, didn't wait for the focus to lock, stuff like that).

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Oct 29, 2009 15:53 |  #23

JWitmer wrote in post #8914126 (external link)
Your shutter speeds seem slow and 2.8 isn't the best setting for sharpness. Try f/8.

JWitmer,
I am thinking about this lens and the only reason is to be @ 2.8 in a church wedding shoot.....for me f8 is not going to work...

I had the sigma 70-200 2.8 but seem to having FF issues so I what to upgrade to Canon with IS... just like the 300 2.8is I want to be @ 2.8 for many reason.. why all the bad glass out there that cant get you 2.8 for the money we spend.... maybe PP will help me out.
thanks
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Oct 29, 2009 15:53 |  #24

The 100% crops do not seem to be of the sharpest areas in each photo. Doesn't matter what part you focused on, you can easily miss focus at 200mm and f/2.8. 100% crops don't evaluate sharpness if they aren't of the proper areas. Looks pretty sharp in the other areas of the pictures.

On the 5-series shot, the focus seems to be slightly behind the front grill, you can see the headlights and part of the hood fender gap sharp behind the front of the car. Plus 1/400 isn't going to consistently freeze a moving car + your camera shake.

If you want to test sharpness, you aren't going to get true results under bad lighting and those shutter speeds at 200mm on crop, and IS doesn't always save each particular shot.


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AMD87
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Oct 29, 2009 16:06 |  #25

DBJ wrote in post #8919734 (external link)
The 100% crops do not seem to be of the sharpest areas in each photo. Doesn't matter what part you focused on, you can easily miss focus at 200mm and f/2.8. 100% crops don't evaluate sharpness if they aren't of the proper areas. Looks pretty sharp in the other areas of the pictures.

On the 5-series shot, the focus seems to be slightly behind the front grill, you can see the headlights and part of the hood fender gap sharp behind the front of the car. Plus 1/400 isn't going to consistently freeze a moving car + your camera shake.

If you want to test sharpness, you aren't going to get true results under bad lighting and those shutter speeds at 200mm on crop, and IS doesn't always save each particular shot.

Those were the sharpest parts i could see on the pictures,ive changed the rights on those so you can download the original size now.


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Oct 29, 2009 16:22 |  #26

try opening to f4 or f5.6..also your shutter speeds are way to slow...but if it is soft, get a refund immedeatly


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Oct 29, 2009 16:27 |  #27

AMD87 wrote in post #8919468 (external link)
the later pictures in the doune gallery,were they took using the 2.8?

Yep, almost all of those in the Doune gallery were taken with it. The thing is, when you're shooting pans, you're stopped down anyway. I rarely shoot more open than F/8 when panning.


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Oct 29, 2009 16:27 |  #28

amfoto1 wrote in post #8919327 (external link)
You need to stop staring at 100% images on your computer.... you'll probably never print them anywhere near that large and your monitor is not likely to show all the detail that's actually there.

As sensor resolution continues to increase, the quality of the lenses needs to keep pace. A 2K pro lens should be sharp wide open, IMHO.


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DBJ
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Oct 29, 2009 16:39 |  #29

AMD87 wrote in post #8919803 (external link)
Those were the sharpest parts i could see on the pictures,ive changed the rights on those so you can download the original size now.

Sorry, i didn't know you could view in detail. On closer look, i guess there really isn't that sharp of an area in each photo.

The first seems to be from camera shake, tough to conclude much.

The second, the sign post seems to be the sharpest. Looks like the focus point is in front of the objects in the shot, possibly in front of the sign.

The third, the crop of the left bottom corner shows the focus point is in front of this area of the pavement.

For the second and third, there seems to be signficant front focus, could be lens, camera, or just from missing focus. The photos do not seem conclusive in determining sharpness. If these photos were a true indicator of sharpness, i would be disappointed though.

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Oct 29, 2009 16:48 as a reply to  @ DBJ's post |  #30

I just got a 70-200 f/28 IS, and have been b***ing and whining, and shooting test charts evenings at time. I finally got out and did about 600 real world shots, and while I have more than my share of camera shake and such, the shots that are spot on are almost blow me away quality - and I was shooting at 3200 ISO the whole day on a 50D! If you really think you can use the lens, get it and give it some time. Once you get in the groove, it gets much better.




  
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