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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 12 Oct 2009 (Monday) 12:29
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7d or 70-200 f2.8 IS

 
AdamLewis
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Nov 06, 2009 18:21 |  #61

Lazuka wrote in post #8966594 (external link)
ADAM ANGRY, ADAM SMASH!

It just gives me a headache to stop and start when I read like that.

Eaton Photos wrote in post #8967258 (external link)
That is funny. That looks kinda like Adam :lol::rolleyes:

I wish.


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kelleystar27
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Nov 06, 2009 18:30 |  #62

TheBurningCrown wrote in post #8807005 (external link)
20D and 70-200 2.8 IS.

No doubt.

+1 for sure!


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JohnJ80
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Nov 07, 2009 15:23 |  #63

hearingman wrote in post #8968543 (external link)
While I absolutely LOVE my 7D, the biggest improvement in my sports pictures happened when I went from the F4 to the 2.8. HUGE difference. (I went 2.8 non-IS AND got the 7D later). My F4 is IS and thus it is my walk around/hiking lens. Even on my XSI the 2.8 is awesome.

Did you keep both? I'd love to hear more detail about this.

J.


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Bill ­ Boehme
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Nov 07, 2009 15:52 as a reply to  @ JohnJ80's post |  #64

wernersl wrote in post #8960260 (external link)
are you shooting in manual or av? i would assume manual as the lights arent changing in there. meter the ice and dial in about 1.5 stops + exposure compensation. then chimp the histogram. try to get the highlights as close to the right of the histogram as possible without clipping and dial down exposure in post if necessary. and dont worry if you have to go to iso 6400 to do it. that camera is capable of that.

I'll second that suggestion. The metering system is seeing all that white in the scene along with a few dark areas to get a neutral gray overall average. Also, Mr. Williams, if you are still following this hijacked thread, I highly recommend adding Neat Image to your arsenal of image processing software. It does a very nice job of removing any high ISO noise.

NOW, ON TO MORE SERIOUS BUSINESS:

AdamLewis wrote in post #8961325 (external link)
DUDE, you use, the comma key, way, too much. Please, refrain, from using it, pretty much, every other word. It, will make, your posts, much, easier, to read, in, the future, me thinks.

wernersl wrote in post #8961350 (external link)
thank, you, for, pointing, that, out, dude.

Lazuka wrote in post #8966594 (external link)
ADAM ANGRY, ADAM SMASH!

AdamLewis wrote in post #8969264 (external link)
It just gives me a headache to stop and start when I read like that.

OK* don't mess with the Comma Police* folks. Hulk get headache and become angry. Results not pretty. Word.
(asterisk substituted for comma ;) -- don't want to cause headache).


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wernersl
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Nov 09, 2009 08:28 |  #65

MrWilliams wrote in post #8966328 (external link)
Thanks for the advice Shawn
I am shooting in manual. You are correct that the lights are not changing other than some poorly lit areas in the arenas.

What did you mean by meter the ice? Set the wb for the ice?

If I dial up 1.5 stop exposure compensation, in manual mode, how will that effect my exposure? Will it try to slow the shutter or change the f stop?

I'll try again this weekend...

what i mean by that...
1. put camera in manual mode
2. point camera at ice and fill the frame (viewfinder sees nothing but ice)
3. dial in the shutter speed you want, such as 1/400, open up the aperture (on your lens it would be f4), and adjust iso until the meter needle is in the middle.
4. to dial in + exposure compensation, bump up iso until the meter is about 1.5 stops to the right of center.
5. fire some shots around the rink and view the histogram. if the highlights are still too far from the right side then bump up iso incrimentally, fire more test shots until the highlights are kissing the right side, but not blocked up or going over the edge. dont want to over cook!
6. shoot the game, chimping every now and again to make sure that god is not manipulating the lighting in the arena.
7. go home
8. load the raw files into your favorite raw processing software
9. adjust white balance. maybe click wb the ice for a starting point and adjust till it looks right if needed. then copy this wb setting to all photos shot on the ice
10. adjust the exposure down if necessary. noise will start to dissapear as you lower exposure. dont go too far, you dont want them to appear under exposed.
11. open your favs in photoshop and give them a proper massage.
12. size for the web, and report back here with your results

and i dont care if my commas are in the right place or not. i cant even manage to capitalize where i need to, much less worry about, the, damn, comma, key.

enjoy


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MrWilliams
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Nov 11, 2009 13:04 |  #66

Thanks Shawn
Your steps were very clear and help with a little confusion i had while shooting over the weekend. Anyhow i did get much better results attempting to implement your earlier suggestions. The image below was one of many very good images from my last shoot. I'll be looking into Noise Ware or some other noise reduction plug in for LR3 beta next and work more on my PP skills...

7D 70-200 f4
pretty sure this was shot at f4, 1/640, 6400 iso. then - .5 or -1 exposure compensation and "cooled" temperature a little. I didn't have to shoot through glass or netting at this arena which also helped.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR



  
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FuturamaJSP
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Nov 11, 2009 13:42 |  #67

Lazuka wrote in post #8807018 (external link)
7d and 70-200 2.8 IS, sell a kidney or a child, just make it happen

or you could whore yourself out to 50 fat chicks for 100 bucks each xD
hmm I think got that from Family Guy ^_^


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Atlandis
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Nov 11, 2009 14:23 |  #68

jwcdds wrote in post #8807106 (external link)
Or a lobe of liver. It grows back.

Jeez.. u us people scary me sometimes.. You really sell body parts to buy cameras? HAHAHA :p


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Bill ­ Boehme
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Nov 11, 2009 14:31 |  #69

Atlandis wrote in post #8997495 (external link)
Jeez.. u us people scary me sometimes.. You really sell body parts to buy cameras? HAHAHA :p

So, what do the folks in Europe sell to buy cameras. ;)


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wernersl
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Nov 11, 2009 16:07 |  #70

MrWilliams wrote in post #8997058 (external link)
Thanks Shawn
Your steps were very clear and help with a little confusion i had while shooting over the weekend. Anyhow i did get much better results attempting to implement your earlier suggestions. The image below was one of many very good images from my last shoot. I'll be looking into Noise Ware or some other noise reduction plug in for LR3 beta next and work more on my PP skills...

7D 70-200 f4
pretty sure this was shot at f4, 1/640, 6400 iso. then - .5 or -1 exposure compensation and "cooled" temperature a little. I didn't have to shoot through glass or netting at this arena which also helped.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

thats great. looks much better


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FuturamaJSP
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Nov 12, 2009 01:50 |  #71

Atlandis wrote in post #8997495 (external link)
Jeez.. u us people scary me sometimes.. You really sell body parts to buy cameras? HAHAHA :p

meh, you only need one kidney :p
Seriously though I recently got a new job mostly because I wanted to buy a 24-70L really badly and after working 6 days a week I managed to get it after one month :D


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Jethro790
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Nov 12, 2009 13:12 |  #72

Atlandis wrote in post #8997495 (external link)
Jeez.. u us people scary me sometimes.. You really sell body parts to buy cameras? HAHAHA :p

Holy crap! You can do that? YES- going to go price out a 400 f2.8L right now!!


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plasticmotif
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Nov 12, 2009 13:39 |  #73

Should've done the loyalty program on the 20D to get a 50D for 600 bucks and gotten the 70-200 IS.


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GORDO
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Nov 12, 2009 13:48 |  #74

Ive got the same combo.Personally Im going with the body upgrade.Reasons,bigger screen mostly(getting older) and basically its just time for a new body.I use mine also for my duaghters basketball and school plays and I think the 8 FPS and the better low light ability also makes it a bit more appealing..GORDO




  
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JelleVerherstraeten
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Nov 12, 2009 13:58 |  #75

Always go first for the glass, then the body!


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