-=Rebel XS / 1000D users, lets join forces!

Pward1980 wrote in post #9081137
I know a while back someone on this thread (or it might have been several people) were asking about grips. I just saw this one on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com …7TW/ref=pd_ys_h​ome_shvl_3

not only do you get the grip, you also get 2 high capacity batteries and an extra charger, AND the grip comes with a wireless remote.

just figured I'd pass the info along...

Is this a reputable seller?


Jeff

http://www.amazon.com …TF8&seller=A1P9​QRDRYY6FXL

I've dealt with these guys (47 Street Photo) no problems here, fast delivery, no problems with thier items.

This is a great deal though !!

Happy Turkey Day

1

Hey Everyone
Im heading downtown for our towns annual light up festivities including fireworks....Any idea for a great setting for fireworks? Flash? What have you all had luck with?

Flash won't help at all for fireworks. I personally shot fireworks with lens open and ISO1600 which produced nice sharp shots, but others have used tripods and dragged the shutter to catch multiple fireworks, the latter is more common.

For fireworks, one thing to keep in mind is you are photographing brightly burning embers in flight. You don't need a high ISO to record brightly burning embers. If you set your ISO very high, you will pick up ambient light sources and the sky will be a muddy gray instead of black. You're better off trying a relatively slow ISO speed.

Another tip: If you're fairly close to the display, you'll hear the boom from the launch of the firework. Shortly after you hear the boom, you want to open the camera's shutter in anticipation of the burst. If you open up the shutter when you see the burst, the resulting image will have an empty spot in the middle of the burst. Also, if you open the shutter before the burst, often you will capture the light trails of the "shell" as it rockets skywards, which is a cool effect all in itself.

To do all this effectively with the Canon XS, you really need a remote shutter release, like the Canon 60 T3 -- or equivalent aftermarket product. Needless to say, you'll need a tripod too.

In the past, when I've shot fireworks, I would set the ISO to 100 or so, stop my lens down at least to f/8, set the camera to "B", and with a remote release, trip it when I heard the boom, and release it after the last ember faded.

Try it. It works really well. If for some reason, it doesn't work with you (which I doubt, really), it will at least give you a baseline from which you can make changes until you're getting the images you want.

If you don't have a remote shutter release, the best option is the 2 second timer plus enable mirror lock up

mkville wrote in post #9086986
I've dealt with these guys (47 Street Photo) no problems here, fast delivery, no problems with thier items.

This is a great deal though !!

will this fit the XS?

Yes

Paul Li wrote in post #9088098
Happy Turkey Day

1

2/3

these pictures are awesome, what type of settings did you use?

Thanks. I was shooting Av f/2.2 ISO1600.

In processing, #1 pretty much just got RAW conversion and I warmed it up. For 2 and 3 I use a "beach bypass" filter in Color Efex.

With the 50mm 1/8 lens should I be doing something different to get it in focus? I have noticed that a lot more of my shots are blurry using the 50 while the kit lens pictures are much more crisp.

I have been trying to use the 50mm for indoor pictures while using no flash.

Need examples and EXIF data. Though the AF on the 50 1.8 is kind of wonky.

50mm tends to hunt in low light. also keep in mind the 50mm doesn't have IS, so if you are still using a higher aperture, less light will get in and require a slower shutter speed.