Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Index  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Guest
New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos HDR Creation 
Thread started 29 Dec 2009 (Tuesday) 02:58
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

"I have the Power!!!!!"

 
SlvrScoobie
Member
169 posts
Joined May 2007
     
Dec 29, 2009 02:58 |  #1

Just figured out that I could use the PhotoMatix software to combine 16bit Jpgs from Bridge, into an HDR, save that, and open the HDR file in Photoshop and convert to 8 bit from there!! now i get the best of both worlds, photomatixs alignment, and photoshops local adaptation curves! And if PS doesnt work i can still open it in photomatix and mess around with that without finding the files and combining them again! =D
I am So happy!




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)
kirkt
Cream of the Crop
5,863 posts
Gallery: 5 photos
Likes: 649
Joined Feb 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
     
Dec 29, 2009 08:46 |  #2

Jpegs are not 16 bit - maybe you meant TIF? But good to see you found a workflow that works for you!

Kirk


Kirk
---
images: http://kirkt.smugmug.c​om (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
dugcross
Senior Member
Avatar
876 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Jan 2008
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida
     
Dec 29, 2009 10:31 as a reply to  @ kirkt's post |  #3

Ummm...you can save it out of Photomatix as 8-bit.


Doug Cross
Graphic Designer and Photographer
www.crossphotographics​.com (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
SlvrScoobie
THREAD ­ STARTER
Member
169 posts
Joined May 2007
     
Dec 29, 2009 18:15 |  #4

right, but Photomatix seems to have a shot gun approach to HDRs. Move the sliders around and wait to see what happens. Then you proccess it and 1/3 of the time it looks different than the preview.
And you can save 16bit jpgs from Camera Raw in bridge. Just keeps more of the bits from the raw data.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
MikeFairbanks
Cream of the Crop
6,428 posts
Joined Jun 2009
     
Dec 29, 2009 19:48 |  #5

Talk English, boys. Talk English. :)


Thank you. bw!

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
kirkt
Cream of the Crop
5,863 posts
Gallery: 5 photos
Likes: 649
Joined Feb 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
     
Dec 29, 2009 20:50 |  #6

You cannot save JPEGs as 16 bit in any application. JPEGs are 8 bits per channel. When you open an image from Bridge in ACR and you click on the hyperlink and set up your image export parameters, you may choose 16 bit. However, if you click on the "Save" button in the bottom left corner of the ACR window and choose JPEG and save, you will generate an 8 bit JPEG. CHeck it yourself - open any one of those JPEGs in Photoshop and I can guarantee you it will be 8 bit. Now, if you want 16 bit per channel files, save the ACR'ed RAW files as TIFF 16 bit. Now you can take those 16 bit TIFFs into Photomatix and do your thing.

Now the $64,000 question is: According to your workflow description above, you use Bridge to convert RAWs to 16 bit TIFFs, combine those TIFFs into an HDR dataset within Photomatix, do no tonemapping in Photomatix but save the HDR dataset in Photomatix. THen you take that HDR dataset and open in PHotoshop to tonemap it (i.e., convert from 32 bit down to 8 bit, using Local Adaptation). Sooooo, that begs the question: why use Photomatix at all?

You can simply select the exposure sequence of RAW files in Bridge and choose (in Bridge):

Tools > Photoshop > Merge to HDR

which will merge the RAWs into an HDR dataset within Photoshop. The result will be a 32 bit document in Photoshop ready to be manipulated or simply tonemapped via changing its mode from 32 to 16 or 8 bits per channel. I would advise you to save the 32 bit file before converting to a lower bit depth, in case you want to tonemap a different way in subsequent processing, without having to combine the RAWs and merge them repeatedly. Photoshop also does automatic image alignment during the merge process.

No muss, no fuss, no Photomatix necessary. That's some He-Man, Castle Grayskull power right there.

Kirk


Kirk
---
images: http://kirkt.smugmug.c​om (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
SlvrScoobie
THREAD ­ STARTER
Member
169 posts
Joined May 2007
     
Dec 29, 2009 20:53 |  #7

except :
Photoshop Sucks at aligning images for HDRs

ive tried and TRIED to do it. On a tripod, done properly, its fine and I dont both. But when i dont use it, i get LOT of overlaps and just a #$%#-tastical alignment. Even with "align images" selected.
Photomatix, for what ever reason does a much better job.
And the real bugger is, it does a Wonderful job with Pano's




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
kirkt
Cream of the Crop
5,863 posts
Gallery: 5 photos
Likes: 649
Joined Feb 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
     
Dec 29, 2009 21:02 |  #8

If you want quality HDR data, you really should shoot with a tripod. In any case, I have never had any problems with PS's alignment during HDR merge, so if you have, I guess you've got a need for better auto-alignment. WHat it sound like then, is that you need an app that has better auto-alignment for HDR merge, but otherwise you are good to go as far as processing the HDR data in PS. Have you tried Picturenaut?

http://www.hdrlabs.com​/picturenaut/index.htm​l (external link)

Free and robust and fast.

Kirk


Kirk
---
images: http://kirkt.smugmug.c​om (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
dugcross
Senior Member
Avatar
876 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Jan 2008
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida
     
Dec 30, 2009 09:28 |  #9

SlvrScoobie wrote in post #9285504 (external link)
right, but Photomatix seems to have a shot gun approach to HDRs. Move the sliders around and wait to see what happens. Then you proccess it and 1/3 of the time it looks different than the preview.
And you can save 16bit jpgs from Camera Raw in bridge. Just keeps more of the bits from the raw data.

Ok, with that being said, I have to say myself whenever I work on a HDR image I only start with Photomatix then bring it into Lightroom do more adjustments then into Photoshop do some adjustments with the NIK filters then do some in Photoshop with curves and such. So yes myself would have to say Photomatix alone is not enough.


Doug Cross
Graphic Designer and Photographer
www.crossphotographics​.com (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Kevin
Cream of the Crop
5,920 posts
Likes: 2
Joined Sep 2005
     
Dec 30, 2009 14:01 |  #10

Personally I prefer to do all adjustments to the batch of exposures in ACR, that way all adjustments are non-destructive and I can go back at any time and change adjustments. I will sometimes make separate adjustment to a single exposure of the batch, but beware those changes may effect the final outcome something awful. I then save the batch as Tiff's and open in Photomatix and do my thing. I save as Tiff and open in CS4, (I use Extended) but doesn't matter. I never load exposures into CS4 from ACR as any adjustments I wish to make needs to be made to the batch, too cumbersome for me.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
tmcman
Goldmember
Avatar
4,409 posts
Gallery: 9 photos
Likes: 56
Joined Apr 2007
Location: NJ
     
Dec 31, 2009 00:03 as a reply to  @ Kevin's post |  #11

+1 for dug and Kevin: There is always something to do in Lr or PS after Photomatix. And sometimes there's something to be done in Lr or PS before Photomatix.


Comments, Questions, Observations Welcome
Fuji X-T2, 18-55mm, Gitzo 1541 w/ Markins M10 ballhead.
"Art always shows itself by doing much with few and simple things." Arthur Wesley Dow

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
S.E.V.
/Include subdirectories, empty directories, and verify.
Avatar
3,866 posts
Likes: 7
Joined Mar 2007
Location: Agoura Hills, CA
     
Dec 31, 2009 01:31 |  #12

I import into LR run a preset on import to change the cure to linear, and reduce sharpening to 0, then export into photomatix as a tiff 16bit uncompressed, Make two different type of HDR images, one that looks like a natural HDRi another that is a bit on the grunge side. Re-import back into LR then edit in photoshop as layers and play with the blend modes, finish tweaking in photoshop. I get a totally different HDRi in the end. But not all images work with the two type blended deal.

Sevan


ShotsInTime (external link) / Gear List /Flickr (external link) / Canon Family Portrait (external link)
- Don't Argue With A Stupid Person, They Will Bring You Down To Their Level And Beat You With Experience.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

1,331 views & 0 likes for this thread
"I have the Power!!!!!"
FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos HDR Creation 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Index   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.1forum software
version 2.1 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is Bob Wille
1235 guests, 313 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.