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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 09 Feb 2010 (Tuesday) 16:37
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This is *not* a zoom vs. prime thread! :)

 
ed ­ rader
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Feb 09, 2010 20:07 |  #16

dog rocket wrote in post #9577791 (external link)
The interesting thing about this thread is that I'm hesitant about digital because of the pp and not really looking forward to that part of it. I would rather get the shot I want straight from the camera. OTOH, I was just wondering how far you could/should take it and how that might affect my gear selection, is all.

Maybe I should have asked this question instead:
Has digital photography PP affected your lens purchases?

give it a chance, man. digitial gives you so much more control. just learn the basics of PPing and you will be hooked i'll bet.

learning processing can be overwhelming so just keep it simple and learn one or two things at a time and you'll love the results and have fun too.

ed rader


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tkbslc
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Feb 09, 2010 20:24 |  #17

dog rocket wrote in post #9577791 (external link)
The interesting thing about this thread is that I'm hesitant about digital because of the pp and not really looking forward to that part of it. I would rather get the shot I want straight from the camera. OTOH, I was just wondering how far you could/should take it and how that might affect my gear selection, is all.

Maybe I should have asked this question instead:
Has digital photography PP affected your lens purchases?

You don't have to. If you were the kind of guy that just dropped your film off at the lab and didn't questions what you got back, then just shoot default Jpeg and don't worry. You still get really good images, just not 100% of the potential. Same with film, if you didn't hand develop for the shot, you were missing some of the potential.


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laydros
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Feb 09, 2010 20:48 |  #18

As to the original question, I think the usage of zooms isn't to be able to get 36mm, 37mm, 38mm, 39mm, etc. as much as it is to just carry a 24-85 instead of carrying a 24, 35, 50, and 85. If I had time to swap lenses between every shot, I would shoot nothing but primes for the speed. I rarely can't foot zoom all I need with a 28mm prime attached. It is just getting it off and mounting the 50mm before I need it.

As for the concerns with PP, I say get lightroom and don't worry much about it. Lightroom is super easy to use. You move a slider for exposure, for contrast, for saturation, crop, and your done. You can set up pre-sets to do more. If you take good shots in-camera you don't need to spend much time masking stuff, cloning out power lines, etc. Don't over sharpen, or over noise reduce, or over saturate. The first time you print something 8x10 and it looks like mush you figure it out.

I learned on digital. I shot some film growing up, but never in a serious way. I learned photoshop when I was working at Kinkos, before I ever knew what an f-stop was. So now I'm doing the reverse, and taking a darkroom class. I love it. For the fun of it, as a hobby, I prefer some Tri-X and a prime, and manually focusing and advancing film. But when it comes down to getting prints that make a client happy, digital is going to be EASIER, almost every single time. My biggest problems with digital are that I take too many shots, and figuring out who to have print my stuff.

Before Adobe Lightroom and Apple Aperture, the digital darkroom was quite a chore, but they have really made things easier than film ever was.


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NorCalNomad
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Feb 09, 2010 21:07 |  #19

I don't like to spend more time then I have to in PP, and coming from film I almost never crop on the comp (except for straitening).

That and doing like event stuff (club, wedding, sports) do you really want to go through hundred's of pics and reframe/resize them all?


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dog ­ rocket
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Feb 09, 2010 21:20 |  #20

tkbslc wrote in post #9577984 (external link)
You don't have to. If you were the kind of guy that just dropped your film off at the lab and didn't questions what you got back, then just shoot default Jpeg and don't worry. You still get really good images, just not 100% of the potential. Same with film, if you didn't hand develop for the shot, you were missing some of the potential.

Yea, I did the stink. Loved it too. :cool:

Hell, if I was the kind that just dropped off film at the lab, would I really be here? :p


Randy...

  
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Andrushka
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Feb 09, 2010 21:52 |  #21

dog rocket wrote in post #9577791 (external link)
The interesting thing about this thread is that I'm hesitant about digital because of the pp and not really looking forward to that part of it. I would rather get the shot I want straight from the camera. OTOH, I was just wondering how far you could/should take it and how that might affect my gear selection, is all.

Get a good composition, shoot JPGs and just crank up the contrast, saturation and sharpness - and call it a day :-)

dog rocket wrote in post #9577791 (external link)
Maybe I should have asked this question instead:
Has digital photography PP affected your lens purchases?

It affects a lot of amateurs lens purchases, cause they can zoom in on the comp and see how "unsharp" their lenses are, so they by more and better - where as with film, the quality or lack there of just wasn't too apparent from an auto-corrected 4x6! :D


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tkbslc
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Feb 10, 2010 01:05 |  #22

dog rocket wrote in post #9578347 (external link)
Yea, I did the stink. Loved it too. :cool:

Hell, if I was the kind that just dropped off film at the lab, would I really be here? :p

Well, then you will probably love digital processing. It's quite a bit easier with less cancer.


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laydros
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Feb 10, 2010 07:22 |  #23

I don't get the not cropping thing. You still crop with an enlarger. I'm not saying this to be a jerk, but I want to understand. You still have a piece of paper of size x, and an image of size y, and often they are not the same aspect ratio and you have to crop anyway. My short trip down the photographic paper aisle at my local camera store included a lot of 8x10, which is a long ways from the same aspect ratio as 35mm film. So whats up with people saying they came from film so they "crop in camera?" I think I'm missing something that might be good for me to understand.


Jason Hamilton - flickr (external link) - Twitter (external link) - laydros.org (external link)
Canon 5D, 24-85 f/3.5-4.5 USM, 35 f/2, 50 f/1.8 II, 85mm f/1.8 USM, 70-210 f/3.5-4.5 USM, 100mm f/2.8 Macro, 430EX
Nikon FE, 35/2, 50/1.8, 105/2.5 and Mamiya C220 Complete Gear List.

  
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rayatphonix
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Feb 10, 2010 07:28 |  #24

I think what they're trying to say is they work/try to get the composition as they want it before pushing the button. Others sometimes snap away and hope to get a good photo by cropping.




  
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dog ­ rocket
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Feb 10, 2010 08:53 |  #25

Thanks for the insights. It's not so easy to talk oneself out of the merits of zooms. It's terrific we have the choices we do today. Happy shooting. :)


Randy...

  
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J-Blake
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Feb 10, 2010 09:19 |  #26

Every decision has trade offs. Flexibility has a price. I too try to get every shot right out of the camera. If I succeed then my PP is minimal (mostly just RAW processing). If not, maybe I can salvage the shot I wanted to get on the computer, or even find a different one. It sounds like your juggling all these factors which are on opposite ends of making a decision. There is no right or wrong here. If you don't want to PP, don't. If the bulk of a zoom lens out weighs the advantages then don't buy one. As far as whether PPing affected my lens purchase....absolutely not. What does one have to do with the other?


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dog ­ rocket
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Feb 10, 2010 09:51 |  #27

Nevermind. :)


Randy...

  
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kitacanon
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Feb 10, 2010 09:54 |  #28

the TRINITY of primes

There's something of a theory/shooting strategy related to primes called "The Trinity"...
It is any series of 3 lenses that give you a smooth transition from the widest to the longest...this is how it works....

When shooting a wide horizontal, sometimes the center of the image is all you really want, so you crop out the right and left sides to create a vertical...but that's just wasting valuable pixels and valuable frame real estate....reducing sharpness and overall image quality (IQ) you pay so much for.....soooo.....

When you want that vertical shot you should switch to the next longer focal length (FL) in the series and shoot it vertically, using the ENTIRE frame, wasting no frame space, wasting no pixels...you see, the next longer FL shot vertically is just about the middle of the frame of the wider angle FL when shot horizontally....

The series would be any three of these in a row (approximately)
...from 18 to 24 to 30 (or 35) to 50 to 85 (or 100) to 135 to 180 (or 200) to 300....
The "or" options are there because these FL are so close....
...with wider angle lenses the difference of a few mm of FL is greater than at longer FL, where the difference of a few mm is less critical.

If I were shooting indoors I would take 3 from the wider end (18/24/35/50)...outdoo​rs I'd take 3 from mid to longer end (85/135/200 or 135/200/300) and a wide angle backup....in darker situations where I needed longer FLs I'd take my the wider aperture 105/135/180 lenses...but the principle is the same...

Each FL relates logically to the next instantly communuicating to you visually through the viewfinder when to move to the next FL and rotate the camera from horizontal to vertical to get the most of your subject in the frame....AND THE HIGHEST IQ...

Some people skip one FL in their trinity, going from 35mm to 85mm for example, cropping in the 'darkroom', but this additional cropping doesn't give you the highest IQ possible...but it is a reasonable compromise between zooms and primes.

Of course, changing lenses can be time consuming and mean lost shots...so having 2 or 3 bodies primed to shoot is how we used to do it in the good ol' days.


My Canon kit 450D/s90; Canon lenses 18-55 IS, 70-210/3.5-4.5....Nikon kit: D610; 28-105/3.5-4.5, 75-300/4.5-5.6 AF, 50/1.8D Nikkors, Tamron 80-210; MF Nikkors: 50/2K, 50/1.4 AI-S, 50/1.8 SeriesE, 60/2.8 Micro Nikkor (AF locked), 85mm/1.8K-AI, 105/2.5 AIS/P.C, 135/2.8K/Q.C, 180/2.8 ED, 200/4Q/AIS, 300/4.5H-AI, ++ Tamron 70-210/3.8-4, Vivitar/Kiron 28/2, ser.1 70-210/3.5, ser.1 28-90; Vivitar/Komine and Samyang 28/2.8; 35mm Nikon F/FM/FE2, Rebel 2K...HTC RE UWA camera

  
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dog ­ rocket
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Feb 10, 2010 10:07 as a reply to  @ kitacanon's post |  #29

Wow. Thanks for taking the time to write this.
I get it.


Randy...

  
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This is *not* a zoom vs. prime thread! :)
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