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Thread started 01 Dec 2007 (Saturday) 21:04
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night club photos (NWS)

 
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Chairman7w
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Mar 09, 2010 16:48 |  #9571

What does that Tattoo say?

Christopher.Sullivan wrote in post #9758414 (external link)
QUOTED IMAGE




  
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Mar 09, 2010 18:10 as a reply to  @ post 9761652 |  #9572

@ kay188 @ Greg

Ya i got one of those, the cleaning solution, and the little wipe cloth...damn thing STILL wont come off. Dunno if that ****s caked on there or something lol but it is resilient to my cleaning regiment


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Mar 09, 2010 18:12 |  #9573

pod_canon wrote in post #9762258 (external link)
The MK II version of mine, yeah, just a hair below that. You can find used versions of the MK I version for under a grand nowadays.

Getting one L-series lens to work with is definitely worth the investment.

ya i know....ahhh, i KNOW i need to get higher end glass...but im debating between either
A NEW CAMERA
either the NIkon D300 or D3x (currently i have a nikon d50)
Main reason why? i only have 5 focal points...its hard to shoot with offboard flash because the red beam only shoots out if its in the MIDDLE focal point...but then...some of my images get real blurred cause im not focused on there face...
As well i want more options within the cam, and be able to go to a higher iso, rather than 1600 and its already noisy.

OR...get a higher end glass, like u suggest the L-series...

Anyone want to weigh in?


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Rukes
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Mar 09, 2010 18:25 |  #9574

Default this wrote in post #9763045 (external link)
ya i know....ahhh, i KNOW i need to get higher end glass...but im debating between either
A NEW CAMERA
either the NIkon D300 or D3x (currently i have a nikon d50)
Main reason why? i only have 5 focal points...its hard to shoot with offboard flash because the red beam only shoots out if its in the MIDDLE focal point...but then...some of my images get real blurred cause im not focused on there face...
As well i want more options within the cam, and be able to go to a higher iso, rather than 1600 and its already noisy.

OR...get a higher end glass, like u suggest the L-series...

Anyone want to weigh in?

You are deciding between a $1,500 camera and a $8,000 camera? :) I'm guessing the D3X was a mistake. If you mean D3S, if you have the money, I would try that. Really nice at high ISO and a good AF system.


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BazV
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Mar 09, 2010 19:10 |  #9575

Christopher.Sullivan wrote in post #9758414 (external link)
switched up my flash settings... instead of using ttl i decided i could learn more and grow from using manual flash only... its a bit tricky at first to gauge aperture/iso with contantly variable lighting and distances from the subject, but i like it. its more raw... i feel i can take credit more for the lighting.

heres some from tonight. this is only my second time out using this method.

QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE
QUOTED IMAGE


if u havent noticed, ive really been trying to push myself to try lots of new things... been having a blast too! lol

Really like the shots mate, would like to try something new myself too as getting a little bored with my normal style now.

So youre using off camera flash in manual? What lens were the above shots taken with? What about focusing, is that not a problem in poor light?


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Mar 09, 2010 20:48 |  #9576

Rukes wrote in post #9763137 (external link)
You are deciding between a $1,500 camera and a $8,000 camera? :) I'm guessing the D3X was a mistake. If you mean D3S, if you have the money, I would try that. Really nice at high ISO and a good AF system.


lmao i dont even know why i put the d3x haha i meant D300 or D3s
-smack-

I would love the d3x but haha ya 8k, is a bit on the pricey side.

Coming from your experience/clientele.
Would u recommend upgrade in glass's (prime/zoom/wide angle)
or camera upgrade, then lens?


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Mar 09, 2010 20:50 |  #9577

BazV wrote in post #9763427 (external link)
Really like the shots mate, would like to try something new myself too as getting a little bored with my normal style now.

So youre using off camera flash in manual? What lens were the above shots taken with? What about focusing, is that not a problem in poor light?

I dont know about his answer, but i'll chime in mine if u dont mind? lol
I Found in the first few times going out, with the offboard flash its a bit trickier. My problem was making the laser shoot out into where i wanted to focus at. Its moreso getting to understand how to move your wrist, to be able to line it up with the subject. I would mean to aim the laser at there face to focus, and it would be off to the side by the bar =p

I think...but im not sure exactly, that theres a laser u can buy to go ON The camera...and then on TOP OF THAT...is where you would go offboard. So you have a laser onbaord ur camera, and then the flash OFFBoard...
or u can just get 2 flashes, one on camera one off.

Is it hard? not hard, just takes some practice and a bit of patience .


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tohara
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Mar 09, 2010 21:46 |  #9578

Are you referring to the af assist beam as the 'laser' and do you mean the st-32 as the on board focusing vessel?


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Mar 09, 2010 22:31 |  #9579

Chairman7w wrote in post #9762545 (external link)
What does that Tattoo say?

It looks like it reads.... yuck ?


5D mkii
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A bunch of glass and very limited knowledge

  
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Mar 09, 2010 22:31 |  #9580

tohara wrote in post #9764435 (external link)
Are you referring to the af assist beam as the 'laser' and do you mean the st-32 as the on board focusing vessel?

Google'd "st-32" and nothing came up...so i have no idea what you mean with that
And yea im "referring" to the AF assist beam...as you obviously guessed and knew what i was talking about.
I think the majority of people, especially the new comers as that is what this thread is mainly for, would understand THE RED LASER THAT SHOOTS OUT OF THE FLASH, rather than "af assist beam", as it has been confusing in previous pages when discussed.
my apologies =]


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tohara
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Mar 09, 2010 22:37 |  #9581

i wasn't having a go at you mate just trying to work out if we were on the same page. Its actually ST-E2 (i wrote it wrong in my previous post) its a wireless flash transmitter that emits its own IR beam to assist with the focus.


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Mar 09, 2010 22:45 |  #9582

tohara wrote in post #9764744 (external link)
i wasn't having a go at you mate just trying to work out if we were on the same page. Its actually ST-E2 (i wrote it wrong in my previous post) its a wireless flash transmitter that emits its own IR beam to assist with the focus.

My apologies...i was in a bad mood when i read it, got defensive like im on my period haha

Ya thats exactly what im talking about!, only thing is though, i need a TTL cord to go from hotshoe, to the actual flash. I guess i would need that ST-E2...but on top with another hotshoe, so i can put the ttl cord on top of THAT...to the flash....
Would be a lot easier if i just upgraded huh? lol

as well i need one for nikon =p


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lcrazyaznl
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Mar 10, 2010 01:12 |  #9583

Get the sc-29 i'm using for my d300 and paired with the sb900 or 800 it works well for keep the af beam at the camera's hot shoe.

I think you will do fine with a d300 so it won't break the bank.
Get a 17-55 2.8 its pretty wide i also carry my 11-16 tokina 2.8 for much wider shots.

Some people suggest a fisheye, but i get sick of seeing it in every shot.

With the d50 you just need recomposed the shot after the af focuses in the middle then keep the button half pressed and compose the shot and it should be good.


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pod_canon
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Mar 10, 2010 02:13 |  #9584

Default this wrote in post #9763045 (external link)
ya i know....ahhh, i KNOW i need to get higher end glass...

Don't sweat the body if it's something built in the past two or three years. You're probably not hitting the "limit" of it's performance. Throwing a good chunk of glass onto your camera will give your current body a new lease on life. Plus, (now I'm guessing you're a Nikonian, so I'm not sure what Nikon calls their "L" lenses) with a good constant-aperture lens, you've got a whole new world of creative possibilities, and aren't a slave to just primes. You're probably not hitting a wall yet with your camera body.

Worry about a body upgrade when it becomes painfully obvious as a limiting factor.


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jonneymendoza
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Mar 10, 2010 03:57 |  #9585

So with a slow shutter speed or if you set the shutter speed to bulb, you can get the effect of light streaks on your images?

Do you guys bounce your flash or point it directly to the person? i imagine the cielings of a typical night club would be too far away or filled with club lights for any bouncing flash to work well?


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