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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 29 Mar 2010 (Monday) 11:00
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Which 7D is better

 
rakesh
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Mar 29, 2010 11:00 |  #1

Hi

I'm using 7D and faced some AF issues and today canon returned my 7D alongwith another brand new 7D for testing and comparison.

I'm posting the images taken with my 7D and the Canon Standby 7D.

Please advise me images of which are better. All images are 100% converted and saved for Web without any post processing. All images are on tripod mounted with Canon 300/2.8 L IS Lens, Tripod mount :

First - Full Frame (Image from my 7D) Av - 2.8 :

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/1a.jpg

100% of above (from my 7D) ;

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/1a-crop.jpg

First - Full Frame (Image from my 7D) Av = F4 :

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/2a.jpg

100% of above (from my 7D) ;

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/2a-crop.jpg

First - Full Frame (Image from my 7D) Av : f8:

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/3a.jpg

100% of above (from my 7D) ;

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/3a-crop.jpg

First - Full Frame (Image from my 7D) - Av : f11:

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/4a.jpg

100% of above (from my 7D) ;

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/4a-crop.jpg





I need expert comments on both the outputs as tomorrow I've to give my final verdict to Canon and on the basis of my reply, eiother I've to keep my existing or they will repl;ace it with the other one.

I look forward to your quick and concrete replies.

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Mastamarek
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Mar 29, 2010 11:02 |  #2

dejavu!? lol, sry couldn't resist ^^


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gabebalazs
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Mar 29, 2010 11:08 |  #3

I think in order to compare accurately you'd need to take a shot of exactly the same subject, same distance etc. These two are framed differently, hard to tell which is better and why.

I'd say, shoot a lot more pictures, and in varying environments. Take some shots using a tripod too, take pictures of static subjects, and do at least 4-5 consecutive shots with each of the same subject resetting the AF between shots. Then compare the two bodies which one hits the target more accurately and consistently. Also, check micro adjustment, because that may result in a slightly softer image even when the AF is working properly. Heck, I love these kind of assignments :)

Also, make sure you're using your best lens for the comparison.


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Overread
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Mar 29, 2010 11:11 |  #4

rakesh wrote in post #9893151 (external link)
Please advise me images of which are better. All images are 100% converted and saved for Web without any post processing. All images are on tripod mounted with Canon 300/2.8 L IS Lenms and Canon 2X Extender :

If you are using the save for web command I would avoid it and instead save the images as JPEGs with the quality slider set to max. That way we are at least ensuring that the images we are seeing have not been compressed in any fashion by the save for web controls.

I also agree that you need a lot more testing to compare the two - and (as much as possible) you want identicle shooting conditions and shots so that you can minimise user/condition differences when shooting the shots.


Tools of the trade: Canon 400D, Canon 7D, Canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS L M2, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 OS, Canon MPE 65mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 150mm f2.8 macro, Tamron 24-70mm f2.4, Sigma 70mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6, Raynox DCR 250, loads of teleconverters and a flashy thingy too
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rakesh
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Mar 29, 2010 11:15 |  #5

Overread

OK, I'll post the images taken with both the cameras in controlled environment at different apertures and will replace above imaghes with those and without any compression.


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John ­ the ­ Geek
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Mar 29, 2010 11:17 as a reply to  @ Overread's post |  #6

The top one looks a little blurry to compare those shots, but it could just be camera shake, motion blur, who knows. It's hardly indicative of the camera itself. Eliminate the camera shake, use a shutter release, tripod, mirror-lock... Micro-Adjust them first... Then compare shots. You probably won't be able to tell the difference then.


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SnapLocally.com
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Mar 29, 2010 11:19 |  #7

Quality wise, they're the same. Image wise, they're both equally underexposed.


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Overread
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Mar 29, 2010 11:22 |  #8

SnapLocally.com wrote in post #9893296 (external link)
Quality wise, they're the same. Image wise, they're both equally underexposed.

true they are rather dark, but the top of the bird is boardering on overexposing - a tricky subject to shoot and get good details without blowing out the bird.


Tools of the trade: Canon 400D, Canon 7D, Canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS L M2, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 OS, Canon MPE 65mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 150mm f2.8 macro, Tamron 24-70mm f2.4, Sigma 70mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6, Raynox DCR 250, loads of teleconverters and a flashy thingy too
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rakesh
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Mar 29, 2010 11:34 |  #9

Because of the limitation, I'm posting images from the Stanby Camera here in additional post :

---------

Now Canon 7D - Standby - Full Frame Av - 2.8 :

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/1.jpg

100% of above ;

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/1-crop.jpg

First - Full Frame Av = F4 :

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/2.jpg

100% of above ;

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/2-crop.jpg

First - Full Frame Av : f8:

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/3.jpg

100% of above ;

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/3-crop.jpg

First - Full Frame - Av : f11:

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/4.jpg

100% of above ;

IMAGE: http://microdistribution.in/img/4-crop.jpg

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gabebalazs
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Mar 29, 2010 11:58 |  #10

I think it was a bit unwise to delete those original couple images. Yes, they were not very good, but now the first 5-6 replies don't make any sense :)

But I've seen the new photos. Hm... hard to tell which is better. Interesting that the Canon 7D first shot is so underexposed... Aside from that exposure problem, I'd risk it to say that perhaps the Canon owned 7D may be a bit better. HOWEVER, have you tried microadjusting? It may be that your 7D is off a by a few units (or whatever the unit of MFA is :) )

Did you have good light for these newspaper tests? What were your shutter speeds? Maybe I'm wrong but some of these almost looks like slight motion blur to me (not the f/11, that's clearly diffraction problem).


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
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gabebalazs
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Mar 29, 2010 12:03 |  #11

I'd also say that there may be a problem with a couple of your 100% crops. For example, while the full frame shots look exactly the same for all framing-wise, the f/8 crops have a bit bigger fonts than the others. If the FF are the same, then the letters in the 100% crops should be the same for all too.


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
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Overread
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Mar 29, 2010 12:04 |  #12

I don't know - some of the shots look a little like the paper has shifted a little during the taking and that the 100% crop is not comingfrom the best possible place (because that f11 softness is scary if its all the result diffraction)

When I've done tests like this I find that its best to shoot something hard that won't move around (I tend to use a macro lens and a coin) with the camera on tripod of course. I also tend to shoot at an angle rather than head on to the subject, that way you ensure that you do get a band of sharpness through the shot and if you happen to just miss focus it does not matter because you can compare the sharp areas together - rather than head on where you have to be spot on with the focus, and if you miss that's it the shot is going to give you false readings


Tools of the trade: Canon 400D, Canon 7D, Canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS L M2, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 OS, Canon MPE 65mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 150mm f2.8 macro, Tamron 24-70mm f2.4, Sigma 70mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6, Raynox DCR 250, loads of teleconverters and a flashy thingy too
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rakesh
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Mar 29, 2010 12:07 |  #13

gabebalazs wrote in post #9893571 (external link)
I'd also say that there may be a problem with a couple of your 100% crops. For example, while the full frame shots look exactly the same for all framing-wise, the f/8 crops have a bit bigger fonts than the others. If the FF are the same, then the letters in the 100% crops should be the same for all too.

The 100% crops are almost same but in one of the shots of F8 - crop, the image cropped area was smaller than the others but to keep the image size to 800x533 or 533x800, the fonts are looking bigger.


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rakesh
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Mar 29, 2010 12:09 |  #14

Overread wrote in post #9893576 (external link)
I don't know - some of the shots look a little like the paper has shifted a little during the taking and that the 100% crop is not comingfrom the best possible place (because that f11 softness is scary if its all the result diffraction)

When I've done tests like this I find that its best to shoot something hard that won't move around (I tend to use a macro lens and a coin) with the camera on tripod of course. I also tend to shoot at an angle rather than head on to the subject, that way you ensure that you do get a band of sharpness through the shot and if you happen to just miss focus it does not matter because you can compare the sharp areas together - rather than head on where you have to be spot on with the focus, and if you miss that's it the shot is going to give you false readings

Overread,.

This is the first time I did any such test and whatever others suggested here, I did that only.

I'll give another attempt tomorrow.


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gabebalazs
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Mar 29, 2010 12:15 |  #15

rakesh wrote in post #9893599 (external link)
The 100% crops are almost same but in one of the shots of F8 - crop, the image cropped area was smaller than the others but to keep the image size to 800x533 or 533x800, the fonts are looking bigger.

I know what you're saying, but in the f/11 and f/8 crops your letter "P" is physically bigger than the f/2.8 and f/4 letter Ps. I measured it with a ruler. :)
So those are likely bigger than 100% crops (or the f2.8 and f4 are smaller)

I think the best looking image of all is your 7D at 2.8.


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
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