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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Accessories 
Thread started 16 Feb 2011 (Wednesday) 15:36
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Photoclam 33NS or Markins Q3T

 
tagakweens
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Feb 16, 2011 15:36 |  #1

need help on a ballhead purchase for a Gitzo 1541T

I know everybody is talking about the Markins, but I think one of the main advantages of the Photoclam is the price.

Photoclam 33NS - $189 (in red)
Markins Q3T - $319 (in red)

that's $130 difference...

HELP!




  
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tvphotog
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Feb 16, 2011 15:57 |  #2

Markins products have been around for a long time, the PC ballheads are the new kid on the block. Well made from reviews here, but I've only seen them for about a year. Pay now, or perhaps pay more later.


Jay
Ireland in Word and Image (external link) Jay Ben Images (external link)5D IV | 5DS/R | Powershot S100 | 24-105L | 100-400 IIL | 16-35 f/2.8 IIL | 24 T/S f /3.5L II | 17 T/S f/4L | 50mm f/1.2L | 35mm f/1.4L | 70-200 f/2.8L II | 580 EX II | 600 EX-RT | Feisol 3441T/Markins Q3T lever QR | Gitzo 3542L Markins Qi20 BV-22 | Gitzo 5561T RRS MH-02

  
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ranesy
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Feb 16, 2011 17:22 |  #3

I went with the Markins Q3T on my Feisol legs but also considered the PC ballheads. Ultimately I wanted a larger ball (for stability) & since both were with in my budget, went with the Q3T that I was able to find for a price very close to the PC-36N.
Both have good warranty so I would not worry about that aspect. Both the Markins and PC are copies (albeit good ones ) of the Arca swiss heads & both are made in Korea. You will be happy with either one.


EOS 7D- EF 50 1.8 II / Tammy 17-50 2.8 / EF 70-200 F4 IS L / Feisol 3441T +Markins Q3T
A-1 - EF 50/1.4 MF

  
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thisisdumb
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Feb 16, 2011 19:29 as a reply to  @ ranesy's post |  #4

+1 for the photoclam. I almost bought the markins and I still think the markins is slightly better, but for my purposes I couldn't justify the extra cost. I also got a photoclam plate from really big cameras and even though its a universal plate without a lip there is no slipping or sliding. I think they have a very versital arca Swiss plate, slots for a handstrap or sling. I also opted for the knob verse the lever release, quarter turn and you can slide the camera out - quick and easy. I like the safety catch feature as well. Lastly like reviews on here have stated it's very well built and solid. I havent noticed any droop and it's very easy to adjust the friction.

Either way you can't go wrong. I bet markins will probably provide better customer support (than pc) if your that type of person, but Kerry at RBC is great and makes up for it I think. Hope this helps!




  
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ben_r_
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Feb 16, 2011 19:45 |  #5

Go with the tried and true, save your money and get the Markins.


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GIVE a man a fish and he'll eat for a day. TEACH a man to fish and he'll eat for a lifetime.

  
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tagakweens
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Feb 16, 2011 21:05 |  #6

i'm convinced... markins it is.... now, would the rrs place work on the markins clamp?




  
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tagakweens
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Feb 16, 2011 21:06 |  #7

btw, thanks guys for all the input...




  
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tvphotog
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Feb 16, 2011 21:34 |  #8

tagakweens wrote in post #11858470 (external link)
i'm convinced... markins it is.... now, would the rrs place work on the markins clamp?

Yes. The Markins screw quick release will adjust to any plate system including RRS. The Markins lever QR is also adjustable to any system of plates, including the RRS and their L brackets.

I've been using the Markins lever release now for about 6 months with no problems.


Jay
Ireland in Word and Image (external link) Jay Ben Images (external link)5D IV | 5DS/R | Powershot S100 | 24-105L | 100-400 IIL | 16-35 f/2.8 IIL | 24 T/S f /3.5L II | 17 T/S f/4L | 50mm f/1.2L | 35mm f/1.4L | 70-200 f/2.8L II | 580 EX II | 600 EX-RT | Feisol 3441T/Markins Q3T lever QR | Gitzo 3542L Markins Qi20 BV-22 | Gitzo 5561T RRS MH-02

  
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sangyup
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Feb 16, 2011 21:35 |  #9

tagakweens wrote in post #11858470 (external link)
i'm convinced... markins it is.... now, would the rrs place work on the markins clamp?

I'm assuming you're talking about rrs plates so yes the rrs plates work on the markins clamp and lever. By the way, great choice on the markins q3t.


Sean
Fuji X100S | Nikon D500 | Nikon D800 | Nikon D300 w/MB-D10 | Tokina 12-24 f/4 | 17-55 f/2.8DX | 20 f/1.8G | 24-70 f/2.8 | 35 f/1.8DX | 50 f/1.8D | 85 1.8G | 70-200 f/2.8VRII | 70-210 f/4 | 70-300VR | 105VR | 105 1.4E | 200-500 f/5.6E | SB-800 | YN 560III x 2 | Gitzo 3541LS w/ RRS BH-55 | Gitzo 1541T w/ Markins Q3TRED

  
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LostInInaka
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Feb 17, 2011 08:18 |  #10

had the same thoughts as you...went with the markins because the PC is difficult to get in Japan

that said, definitely not dissatisfied with my choice...although I may pickup a bigger PC when I make it to S. Korea later this year


5DmkIII | Rokinon 35mm f/1.4 | Canon 16-35mm f/2.8L mk II | Canon 24mm f/1.4L mk II | Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L mk II | Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L | Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS mk II | + Misc
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peter_n
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Feb 17, 2011 08:54 |  #11

You seem to have chosen the Markins but it depends on what gear you're using. If you're using something long and/or heavy go with the Markins as it has a 38mm diameter ball versus the PC 33mm ball. I use a 17-55/2.8 zoom which quite honestly is a bit of a challenge for the Markins and it has an excellent friction control system. The PC fares even a bit worse with it but a bigger ballhead has no problems at all. Clearly the size of the ball is a major choice factor.

OTOH if you have light to moderate gear the PC is a very nice ballhead indeed, it is a heck of a lot cheaper and it has a feature the Markins doesn't have; a friction scale ring on the ball locking knob copied from Arca-Swiss, see the pic below.


IMG NOTICE: [NOT AN IMAGE URL, NOT RENDERED INLINE]


This scale ring is used as a friction reference only and rotates with the locking knob as you turn it. It's very useful if you have a number of different rigs with varying weights. You set the friction tension with your lightest rig, then rotate the scale ring so that zero is at the index mark for that tension. When you put a heavier rig on, you just increase the friction until it's correct and then take a note of the scale number. Next time that rig goes on the head you just turn the knob to that scale number and your friction is all set; no adjustment necessary like with the Markins.

The Photo Clam has a locking action that is slightly less smooth than the Markins, its fit and finish is is excellent and indistinguishable from the Markins, and the drop notch is in a different place on the two ballheads. Take a look at the pic above, to me the drop notch is at the front on the Markins, at the side on the PC.

They are both very nice ballheads and it's a tough decision. User reports on the PC have been good on many forums. I think the Photo Clam is better value than the Markins and I'd definitely choose it if I had lighter equipment.

~Peter

  
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mosconiac
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Feb 17, 2011 09:26 as a reply to  @ peter_n's post |  #12

Where did you find the PC for $189? I can't find it under $220.

n/m, I dug a little deeper and found a few as low as $179.


T2i, 18-55 IS, 55-250 IS, Marumi Super DHG CPL & ND8, Case Logic SLRC-202 Bag (I love this bag!)

  
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peter_n
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Feb 17, 2011 09:32 |  #13

Photo Clam PC-33NS $189 and $179 in black (external link).


~Peter

  
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tagakweens
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Feb 17, 2011 10:44 |  #14

right now I have a 24-70L f2.8... I'm getting the tokina 11-16 next month, and maybe in the (not so near) future, the 70-200L f2.8...

on a side note... that red markins made me drool a little bit... (thanks for the compare pic)...




  
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peter_n
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Feb 17, 2011 12:42 |  #15

Sounds like you need the Markins. I'm not familiar with Canon lenses but your 24-70L/2.8 sound a lot like my Nikkor 17-55/2.8. I'll confess that I was somewhat taken aback that the lens seriously exercised the Q3T. It wasn't my particular sample either, I have two of them and both were the same. Markins says the Q3T is good to 200mm but my 17-55 is f2.8 throughout its range and is heavy at the end. The working aperture of the lens has to be taken into consideration too when making calculations.


~Peter

  
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Photoclam 33NS or Markins Q3T
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