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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 19 Feb 2011 (Saturday) 07:11
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NEED Help ASAP

 
Domwolf
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Feb 19, 2011 07:11 |  #1

I need to light a Auditorium to photograph about 150 people, now the Auditorium is pretty well lit but i need more light to get a larger f/stop , since there will be about 6 rows with about 25 people in each row i need a good f/stop to have all in DOF i would say f/8 or f/11 since i will be about 30 feet away @18mm .

The questions are
1. Will 2 300 Watt/s Flashpoint II 620M with 2 speed-lights be enough or will i need more power?

2. Should i go bare bulb or should i use large reflective umbrellas , like 60" or shoot back to large reflective panels sort of like creating a 4 walls of light around the people or am i wrong to think softboxes are out of the question ?

3. When i meter should i get lets say f/8 from all points and if i lose some f/stops in the center how much is acceptable?

Thank you all :)




  
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Benji
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Feb 19, 2011 08:06 |  #2

I do this exact thing every year, and here is how I do it. I take three powerful A/C powered studio strobes and I fire them into three large umbrellas, all on 13 foot stands raised up nice and high and aimed toward the group. All three are in a straight line above and behind the camera, one is centered on the group the other two are positioned at the outer edges of the group. The left one is aimed at the people on the extreme right, the right one is aimed at the people on the extreme left. I feather them until I get a meter reading of approximately the same all the way across. If the back row is underexposed by a stop due to fall off, don't worry as it can be adjusted later in Ps. I simply get the majority of the group exposed properly then back in the work room in ACR I get the front rows properly exposed and save that file. Then I raise the section that was underexposed up to where it is properly exposed and save the file again. In Ps I combine the two images and erase the overexposure from the overexposed section leaving the formerly underexposed section (which is now properly exposed) alone. I now have one perfectly exposed image.

Shoot in Raw. Shoot a gray card first. Use a tripod, and use a shutter speed that allows the available light to expose the background. I use a cable release to prevent camera possible shake. Take accurate meter readings. Shoot plenty of images so you will have a number of files to use to make one good one where everyone will have their eyes open. WATCH FOR EYEGLASS GLARE. Right at the end of the shoot ask everyone who wears eyeglasses to remove them and shoot several images. That way you will have "good" eyes to use to make one image with no glare.

Benji




  
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Domwolf
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Feb 19, 2011 08:22 |  #3

Benji you are awesome , thanks man,

quiestion , do you think i can do it with the gear i have in mind the 2 300ws and 2 speedlights ? Thanks




  
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Rhinestone
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Feb 19, 2011 08:31 as a reply to  @ Benji's post |  #4

very informative reply Benji:)

Rhine




  
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Benji
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Feb 19, 2011 10:49 |  #5

Domwolf wrote in post #11872887 (external link)
Benji you are awesome , thanks man,

quiestion , do you think i can do it with the gear i have in mind the 2 300ws and 2 speedlights ? Thanks

Most likely, but you may have to up the ISO. I would use the two 300WS units at the ends and the speedlight on camera aimed straight in.

Benji




  
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Domwolf
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Feb 19, 2011 11:02 |  #6

Benji wrote in post #11873426 (external link)
Most likely, but you may have to up the ISO. I would use the two 300WS units at the ends and the speedlight on camera aimed straight in.

Benji


Kool , i would not mind hitting 800 iso since it's a group photo noise will not be an issue , well not more the DOF , i don't want the front row to be more in focus than the back ....i will be shooting from a balcony so i will be above the lights per say .....

Again Benji Yo Da'Man :)




  
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SkipD
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Feb 19, 2011 13:01 |  #7

Domwolf wrote in post #11873486 (external link)
i will be shooting from a balcony so i will be above the lights per say .....

You definitely want the lights above the camera so you don't have ugly shadows to deal with.


Skip Douglas
A few cameras and over 50 years behind them .....
..... but still learning all the time.

  
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Zansho
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Feb 19, 2011 13:05 |  #8

Could always rent additional strobes if you need them. I do that when what I currently have on hand isn't enough to light everything.

Benji has a good way to approach it, for sure. Definitely let the ambient light the background - if you rent more lights, you could always use the extra lights to light the background too to bring the illumination more even, but that'll require for you to have about 4-6 lights total.


http://www.michaeljsam​aripa.com (external link) creating beautiful images for myself, my clients, and the world. Shooting with a mix of Canon, Fuji, and Sony.

  
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