I think the most likely thing here is mirror slap... 1/10 is right in the range where it can be a problem. I don't use the model the OP does, so don't know if it's prone to mirror slap or if the camera lifts the mirror at the beginning of the 2 second timer or not (some do)... But using mirror lockup likely would have helped prevent internal vibrations from effecting the image and is useful on shots from 1/30 to about 2 or 4 seconds. It varies a bit depending upon camera model, some have better dampening than others. Shorter and longer shutter speeds it's not too much of a concern.
Wind and subject or support movement are certainly other things that might have had an effect. A carbon fiber tripod is better at dampening vibrations than a metal tripod, for example. I'd guess a concrete wall would be pretty steady, but who knows. A large truck or traffic in a parking structure is likely to induce some vibrations. Fine vibrations are the reasons you don't want to rest a camera and lens on a car's window sill or hood or roof while the engine is running.... Or why it's usually better to handhold while shooting through and airplane or train window, being careful not to let the camera or lens touch any of the hard surfaces. Sometimes I'll lay a beanbag on top of a camera and lens, too, to further dampen vibrations. Mostly that's with long teles, though.
Another possibility is atmospheric effects. That can always be a consideration when shooting more distant objects.
I think the 24-105's I.S. is one of the more advanced types, that doesn't need to be manually turned off when used on a tripod. If so, then I'd have left it on. It can correct for small shakes like this, just as it does more noticeable movements.
