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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 21 Feb 2011 (Monday) 13:47
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canon16-35 or 14mm

 
musso
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Feb 21, 2011 13:47 |  #1

OK I'm thinking about buying a UWA lens and can't decide between the 16-35 or the 14mm. i want to shoot landscapes and architecture. i love primes but also like zooms. i know they are both 2.8. what do i do any help or advice would be great. keep in mind i will only be able to afford the version 1 of either of the two lens. i don't know if that makes a difference or not.

thank you
Joe




  
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Shulvy
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Feb 21, 2011 13:50 |  #2

If you are serious about landscapes and architecture then I'd go with the 14mm, that lens is rectilinear corrected so the distortion away from the center will be much less than the other lens at 16mm.




  
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FlyingPhotog
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Feb 21, 2011 13:51 as a reply to  @ Shulvy's post |  #3

If you're really, really serious about the architecture side, consider a T/S lens...


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musso
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Feb 21, 2011 13:58 |  #4

architecture is only a side deal i do landscapes more. architecture is like 20% of what i shoot it's only when i do a job at work and we need photos for our web site.




  
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Savas ­ K
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Feb 21, 2011 15:12 |  #5

What body are you shooting with and what other lenses do you have? Saw your sig. Maybe forsake exceptional versatility and go with the 14? You have overlap from 24-35 with your 24-70.




  
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leemik
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Feb 21, 2011 15:35 as a reply to  @ Savas K's post |  #6

The problem I have with the 14mm is it doesn't accept standard filters.. I don't know if thats important to you but it limits it's usefulness to me..

If you don't really need the f2.8 go for the 17-40L @ f4 they are pretty much identical in the online reviews.. and the 16-35L below f4 is not stellar acording to the same reviews.

--mike


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musso
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Feb 21, 2011 15:40 |  #7

what about a 14 and 17-40 that would be a good match. i would love to have the 14 and 16-35 but cant afford that set.

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Feb 21, 2011 15:41 |  #8

musso wrote in post #11885971 (external link)
architecture is only a side deal i do landscapes more. architecture is like 20% of what i shoot it's only when i do a job at work and we need photos for our web site.

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leemik
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Feb 21, 2011 15:50 as a reply to  @ windpig's post |  #9

heck if you wanted a fast-ish UWA zoom and wanted to save some money buy a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8.. I have read that 15-16mm works great on a FF body without vignette.. @14 there's a little vignette but still usable


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SOX ­ 404
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Feb 22, 2011 00:39 |  #10

leemik wrote in post #11886603 (external link)
The problem I have with the 14mm is it doesn't accept standard filters.. I don't know if thats important to you but it limits it's usefulness to me..

Above is the answer.

If you take pictures of landscape, then you might want to consider a CPL filter which doesn't fit with 14mm. If you have extra $ then go for 16-35. However, for taking landscape, you don't need a fast lens. For me, mostly I take photos wth f/8 to f/12 + a tripod.


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albatros
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Feb 22, 2011 02:40 |  #11

leemik wrote in post #11886603 (external link)
If you don't really need the f2.8 go for the 17-40L @ f4 they are pretty much identical in the online reviews.. and the 16-35L below f4 is not stellar acording to the same reviews.

However most reviews that I saw noticed that the 17-40 is good only from 20-40mm, and pretty mediocre from 17-19mm...




  
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albatros
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Feb 22, 2011 02:42 |  #12

Shulvy wrote in post #11885917 (external link)
If you are serious about landscapes and architecture then I'd go with the 14mm, that lens is rectilinear corrected so the distortion away from the center will be much less than the other lens at 16mm.

Just about all lenses that you would normally buy, except for fish-eyes, are rectilinear corrected; however, as we can see by various pin-cushion and barrel distortions (and worse), it doesn't always work out perfectly...




  
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Tilt24
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Feb 22, 2011 03:12 |  #13

Get the 17-40L and with the saved $ you can buy a B+W polarizer and B+W Full ND 64x (6 stop ND filer). OR like others have mentioned the extra cash and you can save up for a better ballhead or carbon fiber tripod (Gitzo Mountaineer or Systematic 3 series+ and RRS/Acratech/Arca Swiss ballheads).

The only time I could ever see the 2.8 being used is for indoor events and most likely astrophotography which I'm not sure how often you do, but regardless the 17-40 will probably fulfill your landscape needs.




  
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