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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 24 Feb 2011 (Thursday) 16:05
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Fill Flash with bright background? Solutions?

 
pxchoi
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Feb 24, 2011 16:05 |  #1

I've been thinking in my head mostly and doing some test shots around the house as the weather hasn't been very good in Seattle.

My question is regarding using fill flash when the background is extremely bright in comparison to the person or subject being photographed.

To my understanding, to get an even exposure at max sync speed (lets say 1/250) you might have to stop down the aperture value. Otherwise, lets say shutter speed of 1/250 at f2.8-f4, the background would be overexposed.

But lets say the photographer wants to have a shallow depth of field and max sync speed, is a ND filter the right solution in this scenario?

Thanks


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Feb 24, 2011 16:07 |  #2

Thats about it, unless you use HSS on your flash.




  
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pxchoi
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Feb 24, 2011 16:08 |  #3

gonzogolf wrote in post #11907236 (external link)
Thats about it, unless you use HSS on your flash.

Thanks, I just wanted to make sure my instincts were correct. :D


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Dave ­ Jr
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Feb 24, 2011 16:11 |  #4

Yep, HSS is your friend, or learn to like f16.


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Feb 24, 2011 16:34 |  #5

If you have HSS capability then you can go above your sync speed.

If not you'd either need to step down your aperture or use ND. The thing with ND is that you may be limited by how much power your flash and output.


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Wilt
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Feb 24, 2011 18:47 |  #6

Keep in mind the severe reduction in max distance that the flash can reach, due to HSS. A recent thread on POTN discusses this, with various models of cameras and flash units. If you have a camera whose normal max shutter x-synch speed is 1/200, going to 1/400 might result in -2EV to -3EV reduction in flash output intensity, meaning that 20' max distance (no HSS) could be reduced to 7' (with HSS at 1/400)


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dmward
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Feb 24, 2011 19:46 |  #7

When thinking about HSS and fill flash, I think in terms of having the flash nice and close to the subject.
If you have a 580EX shooting through an umbrella and have that within 3 feet of your subject then you should be able to handle just about any shutter speed and F stop.

Sunny 16 suggests that a sun lit background would require 1/3200, ISO 100 at F2.8. That is within the capabilities of a 580EX through an umbrella within 5 ft of the subject. you could even go a bit faster to darken the background.


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Feb 24, 2011 23:52 |  #8

I'd like to point out that if you're shooting your subject with a very bright background, your flash will actually be doing most of the work (ie, it's not going to be fill-flash).


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pxchoi
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Feb 25, 2011 12:07 |  #9

Also, a quick question on high speed sync, is it normal for noticeably longer recycle times when using HSS?


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Wilt
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Feb 25, 2011 12:11 |  #10

pxchoi wrote in post #11912608 (external link)
Also, a quick question on high speed sync, is it normal for noticeably longer recycle times when using HSS?

Unlike normal ETTL flash, all the stored electrical energy is expended, rather than being recycled back to the capacitor after 'enough light' is sent out to the subject.


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gonzogolf
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Feb 25, 2011 12:25 |  #11

pxchoi wrote in post #11912608 (external link)
Also, a quick question on high speed sync, is it normal for noticeably longer recycle times when using HSS?

Yes, longer recycle times because HSS is a series of pulses, rather than one blast of light. It usually depletes the flash more than one blast as Wilt noted above. It also limits the flashes power output for the same reason.




  
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dmward
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Feb 25, 2011 12:53 |  #12

If you have your flash on the camera with the head pointed toward the subject the distance scale on the flash will illustrate the impact HSS has on flash output.

I just gave it a quick check. at 1/200 the distance scale said out to 3 meters. At 1/2000 with HSS the scale read .7 meters as the farthest for good exposure.

So roughly 2 feet out to 9 feet which is just over 4 stops.

That also means that bouncing is not generally going to accomplish anything. So either off camera flash, preferably with a modifier, or fire it right at them and go whatever you get. :-)


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pxchoi
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Feb 25, 2011 13:01 |  #13

dmward wrote in post #11912828 (external link)
If you have your flash on the camera with the head pointed toward the subject the distance scale on the flash will illustrate the impact HSS has on flash output.

I just gave it a quick check. at 1/200 the distance scale said out to 3 meters. At 1/2000 with HSS the scale read .7 meters as the farthest for good exposure.

So roughly 2 feet out to 9 feet which is just over 4 stops.

That also means that bouncing is not generally going to accomplish anything. So either off camera flash, preferably with a modifier, or fire it right at them and go whatever you get. :-)

Thanks! This is really helpful advice.


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Fill Flash with bright background? Solutions?
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