Correct flash exposure without a lightmeter?

Hello,

I shot a model yesterday with a 3 light setup yesterday, and I didn't get a correct exposure slightly. My B800 came off a little too hot. I read somewhere that you could look at the histogram and find the correct exposure for the flashes. Could anyone point the way for me?

Thanks!

If you're doing 3 light setups then I would suggest that you get a light meter.

You're just killing yourself doing it the way you are now.

Histograms are not as straight forward as you might think, especially when balancing multiple light sources.

Yes, you can guess and get it by using trial and error but that's time consuming and doesn't instill confidence in your clients when they see you fiddling around, taking test shots and making adjustments like that.

Using a light meter will eliminate all the guesswork, you'll be able balance your lights to each other and with ambient light, and you'll be able to repeat those settings anywhere, anytime.

Agree completely with what Robert is saying above.

You are killing yourself doing it that way, get a light meter as Robert stated, I would recommend the Sekonic L-358 Flash Master... works if you have Pocketwizards to trigger your flash and it's weather resistant. If your using something else other than pocketwizards, there are cheaper alternatives.
http://www.adorama.com​/SKL358.html
http://www.amazon.com …aster-Light/dp/B00007E89K
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …8_Flash_Master_​Meter.html

Light meters are the cats meow.
Seriously. Much less dweebing around. Quick adjustments. They're sweet when using ambient and flash, sun and flash, flash and flash, you name it.

Sounds like im getting PWs and a lightmeter.

As long as it takes me out of the guesswork and fiddling with the camera, it will help me greatly speed up in my assignments!

Thank you.

If you dont have a light meter, start out with one light, and work your way up.. i find sometimes using all 3 lights or more at the same time when your a novice is really difficult... you get lost in ur exposure in so many ways.

calamari86 wrote in post #12010056
Sounds like im getting PWs and a lightmeter.

As long as it takes me out of the guesswork and fiddling with the camera, it will help me greatly speed up in my assignments!

Thank you.

Just remember to calibrate your meter to your camera

As usual Roberts advice is spot on. The great thing about learning to use a meter is once you get a look you like for instance a certain shade of gray out of a background, once you know the ratio you can reproduce it with different modifiers and strobe outputs by recreating that ratio. Also one thing a lot of people forget is that when you look at the histogram on your camera you are seeing the histogram for the JPEG not the RAW file.

Damian75 wrote in post #12012573
Also one thing a lot of people forget is that when you look at the histogram on your camera you are seeing the histogram for the JPEG not the RAW file.

Not only is it a representation of the JPG but it's also showing any in-camera adjustments and picture controls applied.

If you like your previews on the back of the camera to be nice and saturated with high contrast and some sharpening, those adjustments will all be reflected in what you see in the thumbnail and in the histogram.

If you rely on either of those and you're shooting raw files, you're screwed!

TMR Design wrote in post #12012607
Not only is it a representation of the JPG but it's also showing any in-camera adjustments and picture controls applied.

If you like your previews on the back of the camera to be nice and saturated with high contrast and some sharpening, those adjustments will all be reflected in what you see in the thumbnail and in the histogram.

If you rely on either of those and you're shooting raw files, you're screwed!

This is why the in-camera settings should be: Neutral picture style with the contrast set to it's lowest setting.

drdiesel1 wrote in post #12012717
This is why the in-camera settings should be: Neutral picture style with the contrast set to it's lowest setting.

Operative words being "should be".

I do a lot of my shooting tethered and there is nothing like taking that first shot and hearing the client say wow that looks great.

TMR Design wrote in post #12012734
Operative words being "should be".

OK, so what are you saying

drdiesel1 wrote in post #12012843
OK, so what are you saying

I'm saying that many people don't understand that, shoot with all kinds of in-camera adjustments, and are perpetually fooled because they are using the histogram or looking at a shot and thinking it's too bright or dark, only to make a change in exposure and find out it made a mess out of things when they finally look at the raw image.