Correct flash exposure without a lightmeter?

drdiesel1 wrote in post #12012843
OK, so what are you saying

I think he's agreeing with you, but I don't want speak for him

I concur with what you're saying, neutral with -4 contrast is what I use. I've also got DPP highlight alert set up to match what the camera is: 251. This works on my 40D, 7D and 5DII.

windpig wrote in post #12012874
I think he's agreeing with you. I concur with what you're saying, neutral with -4 contrast is what I use. I've also got DPP highlight alert set up to match what the camera is: 251. This works on my 40D, 7D and 5DII.

DPP is the only software I know of that will import internal camera settings and use them to render the final imported image

windpig wrote in post #12012874
I think he's agreeing with you, but I don't want speak for him

I concur with what you're saying, neutral with -4 contrast is what I use. I've also got DPP highlight alert set up to match what the camera is: 251. This works on my 40D, 7D and 5DII.

I didn't realize my post was confusing. Yes, I agreed with him, and the fact that that's how it should be.

TMR Design wrote in post #12012898
I didn't realize my post was confusing. Yes, I agreed with him, and the fact that that's how it should be.

More vague for me, than confusing

drdiesel1 wrote in post #12012888
DPP is the only software I know of that will import internal camera settings and use them to render the final imported image

I was able to get my picture style set up by having DPP set up to match the blinkies and seeing if in fact my histogram and LCD were giving me what the RAW files show when DPP opened them.

I know that ACR at least will get the best captured data I can provide it, what it does from there depends on my willingness to go dweeb the ACR input settings. But you knew that anyway

I hope I'm not being obtuse

If a light meter isn't calibrated, it isn't much use. I agree that you need to calibrate any light meter to your grey card. It's easy as pie to do. Use your meter on incident mode, write down the exposure. Take a photo at the exact distance of the light meter of a certified grey card using the exposure you wrote down (use Manual exposure).

Take this image on your computer and use the eyedropper tool in a photo editor. The closer to 128/128/128 you are, the more accurate your meter and/or camera combination is.

Assuming you do that, however, there is a very quick way to determine exposure. Shoot a test photo using whatever metering method you use. If your camera shows the "blinkies" on any important area you want detail on, you must reduce exposure until the "blinkies" goes away. Using the blinkies method makes sure you haven't set something wrong or made a mistake - it's the absolute final test.

windpig wrote in post #12013035
I was able to get my picture style set up by having DPP set up to match the blinkies and seeing if in fact my histogram and LCD were giving me what the RAW files show when DPP opened them.

I know that ACR at least will get the best captured data I can provide it, what it does from there depends on my willingness to go dweeb the ACR input settings. But you knew that anyway

I hope I'm not being obtuse

DPP will import the in-camera settings and use them to render the imported file. It will have whatever sharpness, contrast, picture style settings used in-camera when it opens the file.

ACR will ignore those settings when it imports the files. I have my ACR default settings setup to use my Color Checker Passport profile from the DNG file I created for each camera.


Now shine my shoes I'm not being Obtuse am I

drdiesel1 wrote in post #12013124
DPP will import the in-camera settings and use them to render the imported file. It will have whatever sharpness, contrast, picture style settings used in-camera when it opens the file.

ACR will ignore those settings when it imports the files. I have my ACR default settings setup to use my Color Checker Passport profile from the DNG file I created for each camera.


Now shine my shoes I'm not being Obtuse am I

I may digress here, but which Passport profile do you use as a default?
BTW, I don't shine shoes anymore, not since Sunday school when I was a kid.

BestVisuals wrote in post #12013112
If a light meter isn't calibrated, it isn't much use. I agree that you need to calibrate any light meter to your grey card. It's easy as pie to do. Use your meter on incident mode, write down the exposure. Take a photo at the exact distance of the light meter of a certified grey card using the exposure you wrote down (use Manual exposure).

Take this image on your computer and use the eyedropper tool in a photo editor. The closer to 128/128/128 you are, the more accurate your meter and/or camera combination is.

Assuming you do that, however, there is a very quick way to determine exposure. Shoot a test photo using whatever metering method you use. If your camera shows the "blinkies" on any important area you want detail on, you must reduce exposure until the "blinkies" goes away. Using the blinkies method makes sure you haven't set something wrong or made a mistake - it's the absolute final test.

I use both. The EV target works great for quick outdoor EV evaluations.
The calibrated LM is used for studio work.

windpig wrote in post #12013160
I may digress here, but which Passport profile do you use as a default?
BTW, I don't shine shoes anymore, not since Sunday school when I was a kid.

The daylight profile. I haven't made the Dual or a flash profile yet. Most of my work is outside, so it's my general/default setting.

I was referring to the Wardens line in the movie "Shawshank Redemption"

drdiesel1 wrote in post #12013208
The daylight profile. I haven't made the Dual or a flash profile yet. Most of my work is outside, so it's my general/default setting.

I was referring to the Wardens line in the movie "Shawshank Redemption"

That's the reason I threw out the obtuse comment. What a great scene in a great movie.

Thanks for the info on the profile default, I'll need to go dweeb my CS4 when I get a chance.

windpig wrote in post #12013231
That's the reason I threw out the obtuse comment. What a great scene in a great movie.

Thanks for the info on the profile default, I'll need to go dweeb my CS4 when I get a chance.

Dweeb isn't a term I've heard in a while. Yep, the ShawShank was a great movie.

Do you have the latest software from X-Rite to make the dual profiles as well as controlling the profiles you have ?

When you open ACR and select the cameras profile, go to the flyout menu and set it to the default setting near the bottom of the menu.

I have saturation, clarity, and WB defaults set for each camera. I also have default sharpening and noise reduction set. Everything I need to adjust has been set to my default spec as the image is imported and then I work each file from there.
It's a lot quicker than doing each file from zero.

drdiesel1 wrote in post #12013244
Dweeb isn't a term I've heard in a while. Yep, the ShawShank was a great movie.

Do you have the latest software from X-Rite to make the dual profiles as well as controlling the profiles you have ?

When you open ACR and select the cameras profile, go to the flyout menu and set it to the default setting near the bottom of the menu.

I have saturation, clarity, and WB defaults set for each camera. I also have default sharpening and noise reduction set. Everything I need to adjust has been set to my default spec as the image is imported and then I work each file from there.
It's a lot quicker than doing each file from zero.

I've got 1.0.2, I've not look for a new version for a while, but will check it out this afternoon along with your directions.

As far as dweebing, it was a term we used all the time when windsurfing. Lots of adjusting to get things dialed in, especially new gear, but also when sailing at a new venue with different wind and wave conditions.

windpig wrote in post #12013295
I've got 1.0.2, I've not look for a new version for a while, but will check it out this afternoon along with your directions.

As far as dweebing, it was a term we used all the time when windsurfing. Lots of adjusting to get things dialed in, especially new gear, but also when sailing at a new venue with different wind and wave conditions.

Here's where you'll find it. It's second from the bottom of the menu.

I suggest you preset everything you want, then create the default. It's as simple as "save new camera raw default"

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