Createsean wrote in post #12184936
Rafa, I like it. Am also interested in the process you used. How do you achieve the tilt on the lens?
Thanks Sean. The process is purely Post Processed. I created several layers on top of the original image with different effects all using the previous layer (not the original image).
- The first 'pass' was a radial (zoomed) blur to create the basic effect of the tilt. I thought it best to is the radial as a simple Gaussian will probably not achieve that perspective shift effect which I though was characteristic of the tilt.
- Since the results of the effect blur a bit even the unwanted parts, I added a soft-cropped layer with the area I wanted sharp
- I then added a high-pass blurred halo... don't know how to explain this better, its a selection of the image's luminosity, copied and blurred to achieve the first and basic glow.
- On top of that I added my normal white-only-glow I apply to most images
- Some vignetting (to white though in this case!)
- Some de-saturation and tinting
- Final review of curves to achieve natural exposure.
I always try to make the result as natural as possible (or not-fake), which, for me, usually requires great amount of layers with very subtle changes one from the other as opposed to big changes over few steps. All of this procedures I do I tend to repeat, so, for instance, my white-glow procedure I have evolved into what I like best. Still, some folks here apply versions of the 'glow' effect that I envy. Wolfy is such case and he said he uses off-the-shelf products.
Hope this explains a bit my procedure, but its not a step by step tutorial by any means!
Createsean wrote in post #12184951
... Curious about what makes a 17 minute exposure at dusk better than a 35 second exposure.
Also how do you figure out the timing? Anything over 30 seconds and the camera switches to bulb. Is there some sort of formula for this?
That's whats interesting of this type of photography for me. A 17 minute exposure is no necessarily better than a 35 second exposure... but imagine how far the clouds will travel (and how many shapes they will get) in 17 minutes! Any water in the image will transform into cotton-candy. Also, if you catch the early morning or sunset the colors in the sky during that period will change while you capture them, so the resulting color is almost surreal! That's what is so appealing about 10 f-stop ND filters for most people. Check out the link I posted and you will see in pictures what I just have described.
Exposure is measured without the filter on, and then calculated... doubling the time for each f-stop of ND filter. That you can do with tables, with a calculator or on your head
. As you figured it out you HAVE to use bulb and have a remote (wired or wireless) trigger. The camera shows a clock that tells you how long the image has been exposed.
For me, its fascinating!
This a composite image of a 12 minute span of time (2 images as my ND filter was good only for 3 f-stops). As you can see, the time of the image allowed for blue sky, orange sky, purple clouds, and they have movement and it looks like daylight, but the city is lit for night:

Some think this looks unnatural, and that is precisely what is interesting of this long exposure images to me.
Best regards,
Rafa.