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Thread started 26 Mar 2010 (Friday) 17:18
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bobobird
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Apr 09, 2011 22:09 |  #3301

I am not sure about the uselessness of AWB, in most day situations it does provide a true representation of the colours then either of the other day settings. Daylight is somewhat warmish, Cloudy is warm, and Shade is very warm. If the lighting is variable like indoors or night, Custom is the preferred method.

Since it can be adjusted in post, I tend to leave it at AWB unless Custom is needed. In any case it makes no difference to what is seen on the LCD as all my settings for picture styles are set to -4.

That said, there is a HUGE difference in the sensors / meters of the newer cameras which are more accurate and better at scene determination. Somethings that books tend not to mention as they keep discussing film techniques of yesterday.

So why Cloudy ?

RafaPolit wrote in post #12191916 (external link)
Peter, I actually thought that piece of advice on Understanding Exposure to be right on the mark!

This is my approach of recently:
- Cloudy for everything outdoors
- Flash if I'll turn on flash, even for fill
- Tungsten for all indoor pictures

That said I only shoot RAW so everything can be changed in post.

Rafa.
PS. oh, and my new motto is Avoid Auto WB like the plague! :)




  
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ofwiah
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Apr 09, 2011 22:12 |  #3302

RafaPolit wrote in post #12191206 (external link)
Fantastic shots all by themselves, and they are even more impressive considering the circumstances!!! Fantastic use of light and perfect dimmed exposure for such a condition!

I'm interested in knowing if you used much Exposure Compensation to achieve the results or if you relied only on the metering system for the exposure? Also, which metering mode were you using?

You have shot many situations where I think the camera would have 'misinterpreted' the light and try to compensate for the dark background. Great set Ofwiah, looking forward to more from the circus!

Rafa.

I normally shoot in manual mode, however, due to the difficult lighting I did not want to take a chance on missing any shots. What I did was use tv for the slower moving shots and the sports mode for the faster moving shots. The sports mode gave me an ISO of 3200 and the tv mode gave me an ISO of 1600. I did try manual once or twice went back to using one or both of the other two. I was not pleased with the results using the manual mode I tweaked the pictures using photo shop.

I always use spot metering.


Canon T2i (ungripped) [] 18-55 mm 3.5 IS [] 55-250 mm IS [] Nify fifty...Favorite lens by a long shot...nifty 250

  
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eaglssong
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Apr 09, 2011 22:13 |  #3303

Hollywoodgt wrote in post #12191935 (external link)
Wow Annie

Those settings you suggested were way off from what the camera was calling for? That's weird, like I said the program mode was ISO 3200 F 10-13-20 and shutter speed 1/4000 I found some pics at 1/400 F20 ISO 6400. Now I did realize just now I had my camera lens set a 1.2m -00 and not 2.5m-00 could that of had any effects?

When I rented the 100-400 L IS, I did forget to move that button a couple of times and it did make a difference. But right now, I've only been using the 55-250 and those settings that I mentioned seem to work the best for me with this lens. The 55-250 doesn't have those choices you just mentioned.

Again, a lot of it will be trial and error for a little while, but you should eventually find the sweet spot that works for you.


:) Anne

  
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ofwiah
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Apr 09, 2011 22:17 |  #3304

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Peter2516
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Apr 09, 2011 22:21 |  #3305

I went to Puget Sound Photographic Collectors Society Camera Sale, Swap and Show today. Great stuffs.


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RafaPolit
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Apr 09, 2011 22:22 |  #3306

Hollywoodgt wrote in post #12191935 (external link)
...like I said the program mode was ISO 3200 F 10-13-20 and shutter speed 1/4000 I found some pics at 1/400 F20 ISO 6400. Now I did realize just now I had my camera lens set a 1.2m -00 and not 2.5m-00 could that of had any effects?

Wait, Hollywood, let me get this straight:
- Question 1: you shot the outdoor zoo pictures at ISO3200 and ISO6400???
- Question 2: you shot the outdoor zoo pictures at f10, 13 and 20?

Hollywood, for exterior daylight pictures, I find it ISO400 is more than bright enough, and sometimes ISO200 or ISO100 are needed. If you used ISO6400!!! probably the camera at 1/4000th was still overexposing, and it couldn't use a faster shutter speed. Also, at ISO6400 you are sacrificing a LOT of Image Quality.

Also, I believe I mentioned this on your deer image, don't be tempted to use f stops above f11 for the time being. Trust me on this one! :) ... stay from f5.6 to f8 and keep the ISO at 1600 or bellow. Let the shutter speed then fall nicely into 1/100th to 1/600th depending on the conditions.

The switch on the lens regarding distances makes the focus a bit faster, but its better to keep it on 1.2m~OO because at least you are sure you are not missing the focus if the subject is closer than 2.5mts. At any rate, this only has impact on the focus speed, not the exposure.

I think that you have it hard as you have to un-learn some of the film photographer's knowledge Hollywood (such as fixed ISO speed), which is probably harder than learning from scratch, but you are doing great! IMHO.

Best regards,
Rafa.


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ofwiah
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Apr 09, 2011 22:27 |  #3307

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The circus will return tomorrow

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RafaPolit
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Apr 09, 2011 22:27 |  #3308

bobobird wrote in post #12192009 (external link)
I am not sure about the uselessness of AWB, in most day situations it does provide a true representation of the colours ...
So why Cloudy ?

Bobobird, I agree with you, and have 10.000+ photos to prove I thought just like that. I just recently changed my mind, perhaps you weren't still around when we discussed this with David.

Here's what I wrote in post #8864 of the previous T2i thread:
---------------
During our last job, I shot a single image with the 50mm f1.8 because conditions allowed for a controlled environment, and, upon reviewing those images, that particular shot had some characteristics all the images with the Kit lens lacked. It had a particular feel I loved.

I commented this to my father and he agreed. In our last family gathering he used the 50mm (which by the way is his!) for all the shots while I kept the kit lens on for the family pictures. He uses a Rebel XT. Upon reviewing the images, I was blown away by what he had produced and seriously disappointed with my own pictures. Certainly the T2i is the better camera against the XT, so what was at hand? (besides photographer skills, which, of course, are the most important factor! :smile: ).

For one, the lens was clearly better! Focus may be lacking, range is not ideal, but when range is wide enough and focus clicks, the rendition is superb! But, also, I had used Auto White Balance while my father had set his camera to Daylight.

For me, each picture had a different WB, both in temperature and tint, while he had a consistent look and warmth to all the images. Since that day I have not set the camera to Auto White Balance again. I always shoot RAW, so this can be changed in LR, but, I now think that it is better to have a consistent measurable WB setting. So, I set it as close as the conditions I am allow: outside either Daylight or Cloudy (Shade is too much for almost all the conditions I shoot at), and indoors I set it to either Tungsten or Fluorescent. If I am shooting flash, I set it to flash.

Now, since this is very new to me, the first image is always off, as I am not yet accustomed to changing the WB, but the second image is always certain to have a good WB.

Now, the ideal would be to custom set the WB for each shooting scenario, and I have my eye set on those Lastolite EzyBalance charts, but only for work related issues. For everyday shoots, setting the WB as close as possible should be enough.
---------------

Since then, I have never shot another shot with AWB. I think it better to have a known set value and change in post, because every image of a same group share the common WB. With AWB you get slight variations from one picture to the next even in the same environment, and that makes batch post-process much more difficult. I know am accustomed to setting the WB and don't miss the first shot as I did two months ago :)

Of course that is just my approach, I don't think AWB is bad and I believe its very accurate most of the time. This is just MY approach to WB, not THE approach :).

Rafa.


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eaglssong
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Apr 09, 2011 22:28 |  #3309

Peter2516 wrote in post #12192081 (external link)
I went to Puget Sound Photographic Collectors Society Camera Sale, Swap and Show today. Great stuffs.

So? What did you buy?


:) Anne

  
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Hollywoodgt
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Apr 09, 2011 22:55 as a reply to  @ eaglssong's post |  #3310

Rafa

Once again as always and actually goes out to everyone that has given me a hand. Those settings were what the camera recommended shooting in program mode?So that would be considerable change in how the out come would be? Why would the profram mode be that far off?

Jeff


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bobobird
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Apr 09, 2011 22:57 |  #3311

Rafa, that makes sense. Had not considered the consistency or batch-processing angles.

Will be out shooting a friend's daughter at a riding school and Cloudy it will be to test it for my self. Nice day today, bit of a haze, slightly diffused blue sky so should be good test conditions.




  
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T2iMdSue
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Apr 09, 2011 23:19 |  #3312

RafaPolit wrote in post #12191327 (external link)
Its a tough choice. For $300 you are in difficult territory. There are not many lenses I can think of that would merit spending that when you already have the kit lens. The 50mm f1.8 could be the only one! That is around $120 or hopefully a bit less where you are going.

For that money, the new Canon 380 EX seems perfect for the price, but it probably won't be in stores yet when you get to the store.

If you are seriously looking for a 50mm (which is really a bit long on the T2i, I must confess) I'd try and save a bit more into a 50mm f1.4 for the MUCH better AF.

Now, for $300 you could actually get the 50mm f1.8 and the Canon 270EX, but then again, version II of the flash (not yet released) would be a much better option.

I am a firm believer than saving too much on certain issues doesn't get you where you wanted and you end up upgrading later. Hard choice here. You could go for the Canon 28mm f2.8 (almost a 50mm equivalent in our cameras) but you are not gaining much... 1 stop of light over the kit lens... not sure its worth it. :(

Sorry, I'm probably of little help here,
Rafa.

Thanks Rafa, You answer is actually some great advice. I'll probably stick with getting a flash and save for a better lens. The camera shop there actually had the T2i long before it was available here, so maybe they'll have the 380 ex. I feel like I still have a lot to learn with the lenses I already have, so I shouldn't rush into another one just yet. Eventually I'd like to have a prime, wide angle, or a macro lens. Both my lens are on the heavy side, so I think it would be nice to have one lighter weight everyday lens for certain occasions.
Mostly, I take outdoor pictures of landscapes. This summer I want to take more bird pics.
If you were to choose a single non-zoom or telephoto lens, which would you choose my budget was bigger?
Thanks!
Susan


Canon T2i, EF-S 18-135mm f3.5/5.6 IS, EF 70-300mm 4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

  
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T2iMdSue
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Apr 09, 2011 23:21 |  #3313

ofwiah wrote in post #12192057 (external link)
[URL=http://[URL]www.f​lickr.com/photos/flips​pecial/5605021674/[URL​=http://[URL]www.flick​r.com/photos/flipspeci​al/5604437481/]
QUOTED IMAGE
[URL=http://[URL]www.f​lickr.com/photos/flips​pecial/5604437481/]hum​ancanon1 by [URL=http://[URL]www.f​lickr.com/people/flips​pecial/]flipspecial, on Flickr

Very cool shots, did you get any of him coming out?


Canon T2i, EF-S 18-135mm f3.5/5.6 IS, EF 70-300mm 4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

  
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itzmered
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Apr 09, 2011 23:30 |  #3314

maru The bluebirds are back here too and I so want to get a good shot of one.


Chris ~
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natums
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Apr 10, 2011 00:37 as a reply to  @ itzmered's post |  #3315

RafaPolit wrote in post #12191851 (external link)
Natums, that is not comforting to read! :( And does the battery metering work correctly? That is, you get a 'im getting low' advice, then a red, later a blinking red? Are you using 2 or 1 battery in it?

About your dial... are you sure the on-off button wasn't turned off by accident? It could be a glitch, but it also could be that actual electronic thing detecting the turns is a bit lose and could eventually fail completely. Hard to know, that's why I usually stick to Canon products! :(

Rafa.

I have killed batteries intentionally, but when I am shooting for fun. I generally never kill batteries. If I am shooting video at an event I will drain them, but swap first opportunity before I fully kill them so I don't miss a second. OEM batteries in the grip meter more accurately than aftermarket, though I feel like both die suddenly once they get to 1 bar, but OEM is noticeably longer in total, and once at a single bar. (I have 2 OEM and 2 aftermarket which I use in pairs and never mix and match).

My dial is the one on the body, not grip, I was shooting in portrait. I didn't even think to see if the one on the grip worked at the time, was too busy panicking thinking I was stuck at wide open aperture forever, lol. I guess next time (if there is a next time) I can try the grip, then if it is mechanical, then I will know I have an alternative, albeit inconvenient.

RafaPolit wrote in post #12191916 (external link)
Peter, I actually thought that piece of advice on Understanding Exposure to be right on the mark!

This is my approach of recently:
- Cloudy for everything outdoors
- Flash if I'll turn on flash, even for fill
- Tungsten for all indoor pictures

That said I only shoot RAW so everything can be changed in post.

Rafa.
PS. oh, and my new motto is Avoid Auto WB like the plague! :)

I shoot always in RAW, unless I am trying to shoot action and get fastest possible fps. So I always shoot AWB, and I always do corrections in post, I suppose this could be lossier than in camera, but I am never happy with custom WB in all conditions plus I always forget to change it whenever I pull out my camera for a quick snapshot.

Hollywoodgt wrote in post #12191935 (external link)
Wow Annie

Those settings you suggested were way off from what the camera was calling for? That's weird, like I said the program mode was ISO 3200 F 10-13-20 and shutter speed 1/4000 I found some pics at 1/400 F20 ISO 6400. Now I did realize just now I had my camera lens set a 1.2m -00 and not 2.5m-00 could that of had any effects?

Don't use ISO higher than 800 unless your shutter is to slow for whatever you are shooting. In daylight you can shoot F8 and ISO 200-400 for best results, technically you can go down to 100 but I read someplace the camera is native 200 and actually is lossy at 100 (although I have never seen visual proof). I was shooting birds and surfers earlier and I was shooting F8 ISO400 with a 1/1600 to 1/2500 shutter which freezes motion perfectly.

On that note, gotta finish editing some surfer pics. :)


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