Overclocking a 580EX II

Dekun wrote in post #12030695
Please enlighten me on how to use Nikon flash with HSS on your G9 or G12, I am rather curious.

It's not HSS he's actually talking about (misuse of the term). What he meant to say is that he can sync his camera at any shutter speed with any flash because the G9, or any other P&S digital camera, uses an electronic shutter.

edge100 wrote in post #12030336
I'm seriously considering picking up a used G11 for exactly this reason, though I'd use it with a Pocketwizard. I'd love to be able to get 1/1600 at f/8 (two stops below "sunny 16th"), which apparently is acheivable at 1/8 power. Pop a couple of extra speedlites on a TriFlash, and you should be able to get the equivalent of more than 1/4 power at a useable 1/1600; more than enough to light a one- or two-person portrait with an umbrella or an Apollo.

Better yet add a miniTt1 to your PlusIIs and use HyperSync if you get 1.3x or 1.6x crop. I can do 1/640 full power on my 1dmk2 (power is reduced somewhat at 1/640, I need to check how much). From what I see Nikon cameras work better getting useable 1/800.

bobbyz wrote in post #12031690
Better yet add a miniTt1 to your PlusIIs and use HyperSync if you get 1.3x or 1.6x crop. I can do 1/640 full power on my 1dmk2 (power is reduced somewhat at 1/640, I need to check how much). From what I see Nikon cameras work better getting useable 1/800.

The MiniTT1 will, apparently, only work in Basic Trigger Mode with the G11/G12, which means no HyperSync.

I can also do 1/640 on my 1DmkII with my MiniTT1 (w/ HyperSync). However, 1/640 @ f/8 is not even one stop below sunny 16ths, so I still end up having to use up to four speedlites to give me f/16 (or worse!), or carting along something with a lot more power.

If the G11 can give me a reliable 1/1600 @ 1/8 power, then two Speedlites (ie. 1/4 power total) should give me enough light to light a portrait with the ambient @ 2 stops below ambient (worst case...obviously, if the ambient is not as bright, things get even better).

edge100 wrote in post #12032064
The MiniTT1 will, apparently, only work in Basic Trigger Mode with the G11/G12, which means no HyperSync.

I can also do 1/640 on my 1DmkII with my MiniTT1 (w/ HyperSync). However, 1/640 @ f/8 is not even one stop below sunny 16ths, so I still end up having to use up to four speedlites to give me f/16 (or worse!), or carting along something with a lot more power.

If the G11 can give me a reliable 1/1600 @ 1/8 power, then two Speedlites (ie. 1/4 power total) should give me enough light to light a portrait with the ambient @ 2 stops below ambient (worst case...obviously, if the ambient is not as bright, things get even better).

Sorry I still don't get what you saying. Let us say I can do 1/640 at full power using HyperSync. Now 1/8 power is 3 stops down. So even if you can go to 1/1600 it only gains 1 & 1/3 stops. So still 1/640 at full power lot better than 1/1600 at 1/8 power. Even if you can do 1/500 @f8, it is still better, isn't it?

bobbyz wrote in post #12032622
Sorry I still don't get what you saying. Let us say I can do 1/640 at full power using HyperSync. Now 1/8 power is 3 stops down. So even if you can go to 1/1600 it only gains 1 & 1/3 stops. So still 1/640 at full power lot better than 1/1600 at 1/8 power. Even if you can do 1/500 @f8, it is still better, isn't it?

The goal is to kill 2 stops of ambient. At sunny 16ths, I need 1/400@ f/16 to give me 2 stops under ambient. This is easily achievable with HyperSync, of course.

But I want less DoF than f/16...I want f/8 DoF. Thus, I need 1/1600. The only way I'm getting that is with an electronic shutter like on the G11/12, and @ 1/1600, I can only use 1/8 power (according to my Flickr link). 1/8 power won't be enough if I want a modifier at f/8, so I need two speedlites at 1/8, or 1/4 total.

Nothing wrong with 1/640 @ f/16, if you're ok with diffraction, huge DoF, and slow recycle times.

edge100 wrote in post #12033518
The goal is to kill 2 stops of ambient. At sunny 16ths, I need 1/400@ f/16 to give me 2 stops under ambient. This is easily achievable with HyperSync, of course.

Actually you can't get f16 @1/400 unless you measuring very close to the flash without any modifier. So far in our discussion we haven't talked about that.

Add ND filter, simple.

Look here:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=924448

bobbyz wrote in post #12033542
Actually you can't get f16 @1/400 unless you measuring very close to the flash without any modifier. So far in our discussion we haven't talked about that.


Add ND filter, simple.

Look here:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=924448

Both good alternate strategies. I'm a big fan of ND filters to kill DoF (especially if you have enough power in your lights).

bobbyz wrote in post #12032622
Sorry I still don't get what you saying. Let us say I can do 1/640 at full power using HyperSync. Now 1/8 power is 3 stops down. So even if you can go to 1/1600 it only gains 1 & 1/3 stops. So still 1/640 at full power lot better than 1/1600 at 1/8 power. Even if you can do 1/500 @f8, it is still better, isn't it?

I think what he is referring to is, that even though the flash is indicating full power at HSS above max sync speed of say 1/250, the actual flash exposure is about one stop less than you would get than regular sync.

edge100 wrote in post #12033580
Both good alternate strategies. I'm a big fan of ND filters to kill DoF (especially if you have enough power in your lights).

ND would be a good strategy. It doesnt quite solve the fact that you won't have enough flash power, however.

Dekun wrote in post #12030695
Please enlighten me on how to use Nikon flash with HSS on your G9 or G12, I am rather curious.

Not trying to be flippant, but just put the Nikon flash on the G9/12, set the flash on manual and the camera on manual. Adjust the flash as needed for exposure or effect without regard to typical focal plane shutter speed limitations.

The flash must be hard wired to the camera to work with the highest shutter speeds. Wirelessly (YN 602 for me), the fastest shutter speed is usually about 1/640 second.

I do consider such a combination to provide high sync speeds in comparison to typical focal plane shutter speeds; however, it is entirely different from the equipment and operation that is usually called "HSS".

I'm under the impression that quite a few photographers use the G series in order to have this high sync speed feature -- even dedicated Nikonians.

Dekun wrote in post #12036220
I think what he is referring to is, that even though the flash is indicating full power at HSS above max sync speed of say 1/250, the actual flash exposure is about one stop less than you would get than regular sync.

Actually just by going into HSS mode you loose 2 & 1/3 stops to 3 stops, not just 1 stop. This happens at the max sync speed. Then for every 1 stop increase in shutter speed you loose 1 stop in flash power. No free lunch unless you get more powerful strobes or be able to sync at any shutter speed using electronic shutters.

GordonSBuck wrote in post #12036920
Not trying to be flippant, but just put the Nikon flash on the G9/12, set the flash on manual and the camera on manual. Adjust the flash as needed for exposure or effect without regard to typical focal plane shutter speed limitations.

The flash must be hard wired to the camera to work with the highest shutter speeds. Wirelessly (YN 602 for me), the fastest shutter speed is usually about 1/640 second.

I do consider such a combination to provide high sync speeds in comparison to typical focal plane shutter speeds; however, it is entirely different from the equipment and operation that is usually called "HSS".

I'm under the impression that quite a few photographers use the G series in order to have this high sync speed feature -- even dedicated Nikonians.

You are not at all, I for some reason was under the impression that you could make Nikon flash do ETTL on Canon. Silly me. I read that some Nikons (SB-26, specifically pointed out from another member on this forum) has Auto mode (not i-TTL), where you input ISO and aperture on the flash. I wonder how well does this works on digital cameras.

Dekun wrote in post #12040716
You are not at all, I for some reason was under the impression that you could make Nikon flash do ETTL on Canon. Silly me. I read that some Nikons (SB-26, specifically pointed out from another member on this forum) has Auto mode (not i-TTL), where you input ISO and aperture on the flash. I wonder how well does this works on digital cameras.

Thats auto tryster mode... There is an actual light sensor on the flash its self.. There is no communication between the camera besides the center pin. I shot a whole wedding with a canon 20D and a Nikon SB-24 in auto tryster mode.. I could ont efford a 580EXII at the time. and my vivitar ttl flash was way under powerd.. It worked but having to change the aperture and iso on the flash each time you changed it on the camera was a pain...