My images gradualy get black with AB Flash...

Hi guys, today I get my Alien Bee flash, I ordered the Busy Bee package with 4 B1600 Flash, 1 giant soft box, 2 umbrella and I also buy a Flash ring. I am really happy and everything work fine.

The only problem I get is when my camera soother speed get over 1/200, my image gradually became black, and at 1/8000 my images are totally black...

Here some exemple ;

1/200 ; http://img703.imagesha​ck.us/i/dsc4845i.jpg/

1/500 ; http://img38.imageshac​k.us/i/dsc4849b.jpg/

1/1250 ; http://img821.imagesha​ck.us/i/dsc4853s.jpg/

1/8000 ; http://img585.imagesha​ck.us/i/dsc4855.jpg/

I tried with my 4 lens and I always get this result. My camera is a Nikon D300s.

Thank guys !

Read up on Sync Speed

i think the shutter sync speed is about 200-250?someone correct me if im wrong...

cedricphoto wrote in post #12041321
Hi guys, today I get my Alien Bee flash, I ordered the Busy Bee package with 4 B1600 Flash, 1 giant soft box, 2 umbrella and I also buy a Flash ring. I am really happy and everything work fine.

The only problem I get is when my camera soother speed get over 1/200, my image gradually became black, and at 1/8000 my images are totally black...

Here some exemple ;

1/200 ; http://img703.imagesha​ck.us/i/dsc4845i.jpg/

1/500 ; http://img38.imageshac​k.us/i/dsc4849b.jpg/

1/1250 ; http://img821.imagesha​ck.us/i/dsc4853s.jpg/

1/8000 ; http://img585.imagesha​ck.us/i/dsc4855.jpg/

I tried with my 4 lens and I always get this result. My camera is a Nikon D300s.

Thank guys !

The spec for your camera says the max sync speed is 1/250 sec ...

Keep in mind that certain combinations of camera/trigger/strobe won't allow you to achieve the camera's max sync shutter speed as you can with a dedicated Speedlight.

To play it safe, a good starting point for syncing with strobes is 1/125s. That will always give you a clean frame.

Controlling ambient light is another issue but using strobes in a studio or home usually means there is no ambient contribution and no reason to be concerned with higher shutter speeds or reducing ambient light.

Thank for your fast answer guys.

I am set up in a chamber, I don't have much space to shoot, maybe it's why I get to much light even at 1/250. I will practice and try to set-up in the living room to have more space.

What is the best distance between background, person to shoot, photographer and light ? 7 - 8 feet from each other ?

You should have done more research before buying all that gear! Read up on strobist.com lighting 101

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com/2006/03/lightin​g-101.html

cedricphoto wrote in post #12041530
I am set up in a chamber, I don't have much space to shoot, maybe it's why I get to much light even at 1/250. I will practice and try to set-up in the living room to have more space.

What is the best distance between background, person to shoot, photographer and light ? 7 - 8 feet from each other ?

You must realize that shutter speed DOES NOT AFFECT the exposure from flash lighting sources.

There are two things that can happen by adjusting the shutter speed:

• Slower shutter speeds allow the ambient (continuous) light to affect your exposures more.
  
• Shutter speeds faster than the "max sync speed" will cause what you've seen with part of the image being blacked out (assuming there's not enough ambient light to expose that part of the image).

cedricphoto wrote in post #12041530
What is the best distance between background, person to shoot, photographer and light ? 7 - 8 feet from each other ?

Typically, you want 6 to 10 feet between the camera and a portrait subject. This provides a perspective that can be appreciated by the subject/client.

You also want at least 6 feet between the portrait subject and the background. This allows you to light the background separately from the subject and also to keep the background blurred somewhat.

SkipD wrote in post #12041614
You must realize that shutter speed DOES NOT AFFECT the exposure from flash lighting sources.

Only when below max sync speed. When above max sync, it does, see examples above.

Set the ISO to 100 and use the aperture at F11 with a shutter speed around 1/125.
Use one of two lights set to a low power setting. You have the lights, now get a Light Meter to manage the lighting you're using


Lots to learn

Mark1 wrote in post #12041683
Only when below max sync speed. When above max sync, it does, see examples above.

I did state that using a shutter speed that's too fast causes the black bar at one side of the frame. However, even with that, the exposure level of what's left is not changed from what you would get with a much slower shutter speed.

basically the "gradual black" is your shutter.

Read up on sync speed as posters above said.

I agree, you have much reading to do.

Just a quick tip, adjust shutter speed for ambient light, and aperture for flash.

Since you just got the Bees, I would consider trading down to Bees that are less powerful.

B1600's are very powerful for a small room or studio. At times even the B800's can be too powerful.

You could probably do everything you want with B400's or two B400's and two B800's.

Not only are the B1600's overkill but they're make life more difficult and present limitations.

Unlike many other things in this world, more power is not always better.

Another option to consider is to send a couple B1600's back and replace them with White Lightning X1600.. The X1600 has the 1/4 power switch, which turns the unit into the equivalent of a B400 @ 1/4 power, and a B1600 @ full power.

That's what I did, and I'm so glad I have that 1/4 power switch, especially indoors. B1600 would be impossible for me to use indoors with my limited space.