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Thread started 19 Mar 2011 (Saturday) 00:59
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Is the 24-70 an overkill on my T2i? Anyone use the combo?

 
rjx
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Mar 19, 2011 02:29 |  #16

musashi wrote in post #12048554 (external link)
17-55 and a flash! ;)

But the op isn't interested in that lens ;)


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musashi
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Mar 19, 2011 03:12 |  #17

Ooooppppsss... my bad... :oops:


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tancanon58
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Mar 19, 2011 03:23 |  #18

7D+ 17-55 IS is an excellent combination.
24-70L+ FF and/or crop 1.3= another excellent combination.
I would not get 24-105L if you are shooting in low light most of the time.


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Hermeto
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Mar 19, 2011 03:58 as a reply to  @ tancanon58's post |  #19
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I don't understand 'front heavy' comments at all!

When I hold my camera in shooting position, I hold it with the lens in my left hand.
Center of gravity is in my left palm, right hand doesn't bear weight at all, it is used for controls almost exclusively.
24-70 is a heavy lens, but it is not long.
When hold properly, in front of the left hand is maybe 1/4 of the lens and a hood.
If camera on the back of the left hand is light weight, it only means that the center of balance will be closer to the hood, making the whole system even less 'front heavy'.

When camera is fixed on tripod, 'front heavy' argument makes even less sense.
The pull that lens makes to the camera-tripod is the same, regardless of the weight of the body.

Weight of the lens makes difference only when camera is not supported, but who shoots that way?


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ssmanak
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Mar 19, 2011 07:19 |  #20

I use this (500D) combo and love it. It is not too heavy as some complain, however the size of lens with hood attracts attention. I take most pics handheld and dont feel front heavy or need of IS (before buying I was worried dead)


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Mar 19, 2011 07:41 |  #21

For any weight concerns, I wouldn't really let that force a decision... perhaps break a tie. You could always get a binocular harness that puts the weight on your shoulders so you eliminate that concern. I have a 24-105L w/ T1i and it's simply fine with the neck strap. And as already mentioned, I would have liked a slightly faster lens for indoors.


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davidc502
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Mar 19, 2011 08:15 |  #22

The 24-70L was on my list for a few months, and was replaced by the 17-50F/2.8.

Why? because the 17-50 is close to being equal to the 24-70L on a full frame camera. In other words the 24-70L doesn't translate the same way it does on FF for the T2i crop body. I'm glad I listened when everyone told me that, because 17-50 is a great range for my T2i.


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nikesupremedunk
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Mar 19, 2011 09:00 |  #23

thanks for your inputs guys.

i already have the 430EX II although i just got it a few days ago so not used to it yet. is the flash going to be able to create same images as shots that are not shot with a flash? i noticed if i'm using a flash i have to bump the aperture up to like 8-11 and bounce the light to get any "natural" looking lighting and doesn't look the same as a shot taken w/o flash. (maybe i'm doing it wrong?)

and i agree with most of you that the f/2.8 isn't that fast for indoors as i notice that i would shoot my prime around f/1.8-2.2 and sometimes 1.4. i guess i will go for the 24-105 since it seems to be better all around besides the f/4 (and cheaper!)


| Andrew | 5D Mark II | EOS-M | Canon 17-40mm f 4 L | Canon 35mm f 1.4 L | Canon 100mm f 2.8 L Macro | Canon 70-200mm f 4 L IS | Canon EF-M 22mm f 2.0 | Speedlite 430EX II|

  
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stech
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Mar 19, 2011 12:11 as a reply to  @ nikesupremedunk's post |  #24

A few things you should consider.

- Direct flash normally looks hard..
- Bouncing using a defuser/softbox will soften the light up.
- The speed light output has color temprature at 5500K...You may consider using flash gels to balance flash output with amibient light.
- If you shoot in P-mode, I belive the camera will try meter in a way so that it will the flash as the main source of light. (this can lead to situation where the subject is well lit but the background is underexposed.)
- If you shoot in AV/TV mode, the camera will try to meter the background and use flash to fill in the details. (This looks more natural in my opinion but you will need fast lens / high iso to make this work in dark environments.)




  
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Tony-S
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Mar 19, 2011 12:11 |  #25

For less than the cost of the 24-70L, I'd go with the Sigma 17-50 HSM OS and a 30mm f/1.4. You'll get just as good optical performance and a great lens for your indoor work.


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Sp1207
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Mar 19, 2011 15:21 |  #26

Really, the 24-70 is an awkward FL on a crop camera. The 17-55IS makes much more sense.


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rjx
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Mar 19, 2011 15:33 |  #27

Sp1207 wrote in post #12051195 (external link)
Really, the 24-70 is an awkward FL on a crop camera.

For the type of photography you do? Or for everyone?


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megrac
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Mar 19, 2011 15:53 |  #28

rjx wrote in post #12051242 (external link)
For the type of photography you do? Or for everyone?

Thats right. For me with my 24-105 i find 24mm fine i hardly ever need wider but i would hate to lose the 70-105 part out if i was to have a 24-70. For me a 17-55 would be the most annoying lens on the planet, my cpeap 18-55 is a good example of this for me as i hate using it because of its focual length. 55m is right in the middle ground for my use.


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SamuelYCWang
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Mar 19, 2011 15:55 |  #29

FadedBlackSocks wrote in post #12048359 (external link)
24-70L is heavy as hell and is overrated in my opinion (probably got a soft copy).

24-105L is a great daytime walk around but isn't all that great indoors. (traded for 17-55)

Go for the 17-55 IS. It has f/2.8 + IS.

I would've kept my 17-55 if I didn't need to pay for car repairs. =[

I had the same debate awhile back, and that's exactly what I did. On a crop body, its almost a no brainer. I would have kept mine if I didn't upgrade to ff.


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FadedBlackSocks
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Mar 19, 2011 15:58 |  #30

Hermeto wrote in post #12048707 (external link)
I don't understand 'front heavy' comments at all!

When I hold my camera in shooting position, I hold it with the lens in my left hand.
Center of gravity is in my left palm, right hand doesn't bear weight at all, it is used for controls almost exclusively.
24-70 is a heavy lens, but it is not long.
When hold properly, in front of the left hand is maybe 1/4 of the lens and a hood.
If camera on the back of the left hand is light weight, it only means that the center of balance will be closer to the hood, making the whole system even less 'front heavy'.

When camera is fixed on tripod, 'front heavy' argument makes even less sense.
The pull that lens makes to the camera-tripod is the same, regardless of the weight of the body.

Weight of the lens makes difference only when camera is not supported, but who shoots that way?

FWIW, when I had the 24-70L/7D combo mounted on my Flashpoint Ballhead+Tripod it would tilt down slightly no matter how tight I would tighten the ballhead. I would have to aim up to compensate for the drop. That's how heavy the lens is. The lens should come with a tripod mount collar like any big white.

(I know my tripod is considered "low end," but there is no way for me to justify spending 3 times as much on a tripod/head that I hardly use. The Flashpoint is very good setup for anyone that just needs a tripod.)


Current: EOS 7D | EF 24-105L | EF-S 10-22 | Sigma 30 f/1.4 | Speedlite 430EX II

  
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Is the 24-70 an overkill on my T2i? Anyone use the combo?
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