First off, huge thanks to Jan Christian for this DIY which got me started. Other thanks to PacAce for the compilation of DIY links, and all the other POTN users who have posted their DIY beauty dishes.
Like Jan's DIY, this DIY assumes you have some light fabrication skill.
My parts list:
IKEA wok "PYRA
". $4.99, not too heavy, very sturdy.
Pilot 4x5.5" automotive blind spot mirror. $2.99 at Autozone.
Bucket lid. (was going to use the bucket in the photo, decided to use the lid instead). Free.
Aluminum bar stock. $7 at Lowe's.
(4) Threaded rods, #8-32 x 3"
(3) Machine screws, #8-32 x 1/2" OR carriage bolts (in retrospect, use carriage bolts)
Machine screw, #8-32 x 2"
Thumbscrew, 1/4-20 x 1/2"
E-clip, 1/4"
Washers and nuts, #8-32 and 1/4"
Double-sided foam tape
Spray primer, matte black spray paint, satin white spray paint.
Bits of scrap leather (not shown yet)
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Including the paint, my total cost was about $25.
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by nathancarter, on FlickrDrill out the rivets holding the handles to the wok. This was arguably the most frustrating part; they are very soft aluminum and are not brittle enough to break, they just get mushy if you try to snap them off.
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by nathancarter, on FlickrFind the center point of the wok, either by measurement or by balance. Mark center with a punch. It's probably safe to assume that the label is stamped the same on all copies of this wok, so use the center point that I marked, right underneath the "E" and slightly left of the center of the "E".
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by nathancarter, on FlickrScribe a line from the two bottom handle holes up through the center point; this will be vertical once everything is assembled. Scribe a circle with approximately 2.5" radius, then scribe horizontal lines approximately 2.2" above and below the center point; the intersection of these lines will be the holes for your reflector supports. (use the mirror as a reference to make sure the holes are in the right place; the mirror should not cover the holes.) Measure and scribe a cutout that is slightly larger than your Speedlite head.
(in this photo, ignore the larger circle)
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by nathancarter, on FlickrIn your reflector backing material (bucket lid), scribe a circle with approximately 2.8" radius. Use a scissor or razor to cut out the circle. If you scribe deep enough into the plastic, the scribed line will guide your razor knife for a nice clean circle. I used a Sharpie to help me see the scribed line; the Sharpie comes off with alcohol.
Feline assistant is optional and perhaps not recommended.
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by nathancarter, on FlickrScribe a 2.5" radius circle on your disc. Mark locations for four drilled holes that match the markings on the wok.
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by nathancarter, on FlickrUse a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut out the light hole. Use 11/64 drill bit to drill four holes for the reflector supports, a hole for the Speedlite support standoff screw, and an additional hole for the bracket - note that two mounting holes are already there from the original wooden handle. Sand thoroughly inside and out.
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by nathancarter, on FlickrFabricate bracket/arm out of aluminum bar. I did the bending by hand with the bar in a vise, and cut it with a shear, though you could easily cut with a hacksaw. Drill three 11/64 mounting holes that match the holes in the bowl.
Temporarily mount the bracket to the bowl, and decide the appropriate location for the Speedlite mounting screw. I chose to mount the Speedlite using its included plastic stand/foot; you may opt to purchase a clamping cold-shoe - up to you. Drill a 1/4" hole for this mounting screw.
Use a tap-and-die set to make a 1/4-20 threaded hole to mount to your tripod shoe or light stand. There are plenty of other options here if you don't have a tap-and-die set.
Grind some threads out of the middle of the thumbscrew so that the E-clip can secure it into the drilled hole. (this was inspired by the Manfrotto tripod shoe)
Shown with my Vivitar tripod shoe attached to the threaded hole I tapped out.
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by nathancarter, on Flickr
