Please Advise - X-Rite Image Samples (ColourCast)

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased a X-Rite ColorChecker Passport to help with my Colour Correction.

My Screen is calibrated with Spyder2Pro.

After changing the Camera Calibration to my X-Rite Calibtrated profile the image looks fine, however as soon as I click on the 18% Grey It sends the image(s) Orangy Red looking?

Is it just my eyes?? I am definately clicking on the 18% square as well.

Thanks in advance

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In both cases, the 2nd images' skintones looks more natural to my eye. First is too cool.
There's a lot of warm tones in these images.

I thought that once you created a custom camera profile with ColorChecker PassPort, you don't do a white balance? The CCPP adjusts color AND finds a neutral white. (?)

http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=V39n1J8IgpA

It states on the X-Rite Tutorial that you select your colour Profile and then just correct the white balance by clicking on the 18% Grey patch?? or on the +1 or -1 etc to cool or warm as required.

Oxford_Matt wrote in post #12084726
...or on the +1 or -1 etc to cool or warm as required.

This was my understanding.

I just checked the Tutorial again to make sure, it definately states you need to correct WB after selecting your New Calibrated Camera Profile.

I must admit though, Flickr has not done the image colour any favours.

If you have a calibrated Monitor please can you
Let me know what you think of the WB on the corrected images.

The Concrete slabs and fence is closer to first image.
I seem to be spending a fortune on all the calibration gear
And it's not helping

Thanks

Are you shooting RAW or Jpeg.

Did you create the profile(s) for a daylight shot ? Did you get the correct EV when you made the profile ? I use my Whi-Bal card for WB, but the CCPP has different patches in the upper half to warm and cool the image.
The first patch on the top row (under the color line) is the portrait standard WB patch.

Although those corrected images do look better, you should try the correction patches and skip the grey patch you're using.

Look closely at the upper half of the card and you'll see the patch indication marking for portrait and landscape. You should have 4 patches to adjust the WB with. Select the one that works best for you. I like using my Whi-Bal for WB and then using the patches if it needs to be tweaked from a correct WB based off the Whi-Bal.
You can also use the WB card on the CCPP. It's the white card behind the color patches. Just take a second shot with it

Also understand, the CCPP profiles will enhance the color of your images. It makes them richer/more saturated looking and this might be why you perceive it as you do. If you have the saturation bumped up or the clarity pushed up, this will cause an over saturated look when using the profiles.

The CCPP is well worth every dollar you paid for it. You just need to learn how to use it. I would make sure all the images are shot RAW, with saturation and clarity sliders set at zero and use the adjustment patches. Not the grey patch. I always try to do a CWB, but as long as you have a WB card image to balance off of, you're golden.

Here's you image adjusted in CS5 using a curves adjustment layer with the middle grey dropper tool.
Left is the grey point dropper in CS5 with the first portrait patch...............Th​is is yours.

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I also noticed you used the term Color Corrected What is this referring to ?

The profile you created with a DNG file ?

I would advise to use the CCPP balck to white scale to set the EV. Turn on the cameras highlight clipping feature and shoot the CCPP. Watch the white patch and expose until it starts to clip and then back it off 1/3. Shoot an image of the CCPP using a RAW file format and create the DNG profile from that. In camera meters aren't the best for proper EV metering and this is a great work around.

Looks good to me.

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Hey Guys,

thank You for all the advice & info.

I will try to answer all of drdiesel1's questions:

1. Are you shooting RAW or Jpeg? Shoot Raw always
2. Did you create the profile(s) for a daylight shot ? Yes Profiles created in the Same lighting.
3. Did you get the correct EV when you made the profile ? Yes, Used the 18% Grey card to calculate correct exposure.

If you have the saturation bumped up or the clarity pushed up, this will cause an over saturated look when using the profiles. So when I import the images should they all be zeroed out? or just the Saturation, Vibrance, Clarity?

Tried to use the card photographing a Car in the sun today, Exposed for the 18% Grey, but when trying to create a profile it stated some colours were suffering from clipping? However none of the Squares were flashing with the highlight enable display??

Still not convinced, As the picture of my son, although looks cool in the un corrected image the Fence and the slabs are closer to their true colours, they are far to warm in corrected.

Maybe my monitor needs recalibrating? But everyone elses images look fine on my display so it cant be that far out?? AARRGGHH

I agree with Rene....the corrected versions of the two photos look much more natural to me.

BTW, which patch are you clicking on with the White Balance tool. There are three neutral patch on the ColorChecker Passport; all of which should give you approx 206-206-206 reading.

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That isn't correct; you still have to do White Balancing. The camera profile address color rendition not White Balance. That still has to be done manually.

In any event the OP seems to be using a Single Illuminant Profile so it wouldn't be as accurate as a Dual Illuminant Profile.

ChasP505 wrote in post #12084649
I thought that once you created a custom camera profile with ColorChecker PassPort, you don't do a white balance? The CCPP adjusts color AND finds a neutral white. (?)

http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=V39n1J8IgpA

"Yes, Used the 18% Grey card to calculate correct exposure."

The Grey Card on the third tab of the ColorChecker Passport is for setting in-camera white balance; its purpose is not for calculating exposure.