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Thread started 06 Apr 2011 (Wednesday) 16:49
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Alright, I think I made an ignorant decision...

 
eaglephoto
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Apr 07, 2011 12:00 |  #31

Hi I own the 55-250 is and the 70-200 F4L non is IQ on the 55-250 is not a patch on the 70-200 and therefore unless I am desperate for the IS it stays in the bag. I read somewhere as a rule of thumb to save camera shake you should roughly double the mm to shutter speed. For example at 70mm you need to be shooting at 140th of a second or higher at 200mm 400th of a second etc etc
Hope this helps
Allan




  
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themadman
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Apr 07, 2011 12:03 |  #32

Well... something like a 150-500 is gonna be huge... why not just get the IS version of the 70-200 f4?


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TheBurningCrown
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Apr 07, 2011 12:11 |  #33

eaglephoto wrote in post #12176900 (external link)
I read somewhere as a rule of thumb to save camera shake you should roughly double the mm to shutter speed. For example at 70mm you need to be shooting at 140th of a second or higher at 200mm 400th of a second etc etc

The general rule of thumb for 35mm is to use at least the reciprocal of the focal length as your shutter speed in order to minimize shaking. So if you're using a 200mm lens, you should be shooting at least 1/200th or faster. For APS-C cameras it's the effective field of view, which means it should be the reciprocal * 1.6. So for 200mm you should be shooting at 1/320th or faster. And for handshake, faster doesn't hurt.


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BrickR
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Apr 07, 2011 12:32 |  #34

The Tamron 70-300 VC will give you the extra reach and great IQ all for a great price (rebate until end of month), I'll write up a comparison review with the Canon 70-200 nonIS I had soon. I've read many people suggesting the 55-250 as a very inexpensive long zoom (I've never used one though).


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DreDaze
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Apr 07, 2011 12:48 |  #35

it sounds like you don't really use the lens all that much...i'd swap it for the 55-250IS, or the new tamron 70-300VC...both are cheaper, will give you more range, and IS...i personally wouldn't want a non stabilized lens that goes to 200mm


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eaglephoto
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Apr 07, 2011 16:21 |  #36

TheBurningCrown wrote in post #12176972 (external link)
The general rule of thumb for 35mm is to use at least the reciprocal of the focal length as your shutter speed in order to minimize shaking. So if you're using a 200mm lens, you should be shooting at least 1/200th or faster. For APS-C cameras it's the effective field of view, which means it should be the reciprocal * 1.6. So for 200mm you should be shooting at 1/320th or faster. And for handshake, faster doesn't hurt.

Thanks for that I am on the 1.6 with the 7D so my calc was on the safe side lols but its good to know I can risk a bit slower if needed :)
Allan




  
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Tim ­ S
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Apr 07, 2011 18:29 |  #37

dedsen wrote in post #12176422 (external link)
Turn your ISO up to get the shutter speed you need. You CAN fix noise. You CAN NOT fix blurry!

bw!I have over 12,000 sports photos, shot about 30% at ISO 1600, 70% at ISO 3200. I will take noise over blurry every time! BTW...quit pixel peeping! Print those photos and enjoy them.


Tim
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Alright, I think I made an ignorant decision...
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