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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Discussion Weddings & Other Family Events 
Thread started 07 Apr 2011 (Thursday) 12:20
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Your Favorite Lens Shooting Family, B&G Format Portrait

 
PMCphotography
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May 12, 2011 18:12 |  #16

For the family groups, I like to use a 24-70 when I can (on a crop) and step back a few steps, I'm usually at f/5.6 or so. For really large groups, I use a 10-20 Sigma at about f/8.

For couple portraits, anything goes- 70-200 f/2.8, 24-70, 10-20... A few other assorted lenses. Really depends on the look I want.


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memoriesoftomorrow
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May 12, 2011 22:03 |  #17

For family groups generally the 24-70, 35 or 50

For couple portraits... can be any of the lenses I have. Typically during most weddings pretty much all of them at one point or another.


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May 13, 2011 04:32 |  #18

Red Tie Photography wrote in post #12186732 (external link)
This really surprises me. I try to be 3.5-5.6 if I can, and I know that sometimes that everyone cant be in focus, but are you worried about shooting too shallow?

That was the same thing I was thinking. I use the same lens 50 1.2 and would think that at f2 it would be too shallow for group shots.


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May 13, 2011 04:38 |  #19

bnlearle wrote in post #12190151 (external link)
The bigger the group gets, the more I scoot back, and the wider I shoot :) I often shoot groups of 8 people at f/1.8 without any focus problems. And the background looks much better, imo :)

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B, On the group of 8 at f1.8, aren't the people at the end a bit soft. Do you lock your focus on the center person's eyes? I can imagine the background looking good, but I am concern with the rest of the group not being sharp. Which lens are you using for this situation?

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bruisergirl
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Jun 17, 2011 14:08 |  #20

bnlearle wrote in post #12190151 (external link)
The bigger the group gets, the more I scoot back, and the wider I shoot :) I often shoot groups of 8 people at f/1.8 without any focus problems. And the background looks much better, imo :)

This thread has been really useful to me. But I had some problems trying to incorporate the information in a recent group photo (not a wedding). I posted a thread in the general section and got some great responses, but I also wanted to ask here specifically about the DOF calculator.

It was my first time using a tripod, and I assumed that (1) with the 10-second timer there would be no camera shake, so I could use a slower shutter speed, and (2) based on the DOF calculator (40D, 30 1.4, subject distance 15 ft), I could use f2.5 (which would give an ample DOF of 7.7 ft) and thus a lower ISO. There wasn't a ton of light (I also bounced a flash behind me to the upper right), which is why I didn't want to use too small an aperture if f2.5 was enough.

I thought everything would be super sharp, but instead it was noticeably blurry. Here's the photo (external link) (EXIF 1/160, 2.5, ISO400). I originally started with 1/60 but eventually went to 1/160 because of the blurriness. I used AF to focus on the woman's blue sleeve (on the left) because (1) I'm not good at focusing and recomposing and (2) I figured that with DOF 7.7 ft, everyone would be in focus also. Not only is the sleeve not in focus, but also I can't figure out what the camera focused on (although someone pointed out possibly a plug outlet by the wall, yikes).

I may have to turn off AF next time (although I'm nervous because my eyes aren't great with MF), and I'm also wondering about the minimum focusing distance with the 30 1.4. Which brings me to the DOF calculator. I'm not exactly sure what I did wrong. I thought I had figured it out, but a few people suggested that it's not always accurate and that I really should stick to smaller apertures just to be safe.

Anyway, I apologize for the long newbie rambling, but any advice is greatly appreciated. I really want to figure this out!

Thank you!


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Jun 17, 2011 15:55 |  #21

What a great thread. It's been very informative & helpful to me to see that some use less wide lenses at wide apertures in group shots; gonna have to give that a try! Bobby E.'s got me hankering for that 50 1.2 but I just bought a 15mm fish-eye & since I'll be quitting my bank job in less than 2 months to go full time photog, I have to wait...sorry for the digression, just wanted to say thanks for the info in this thread!


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Jun 17, 2011 15:59 |  #22

bnlearle wrote in post #12403099 (external link)
Oh, if the people are stacked, then absolutely. But if they are all in one line, then it isn't a problem at all :)

This was the biggest lesson I learned on my first, I went too high w/ my aperture trying to ensure everyone was in focus. These would have been much better at f/4 or lower...

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Jun 24, 2011 12:59 as a reply to  @ Green Man's post |  #23

PMCphotography: what do you mean by "on a crop"?

Thanks!




  
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Jun 24, 2011 13:24 |  #24

Here you go Mgnike1 :) http://lmgtfy.com/?q=c​rop+vs+full+frame (external link) :)

mgnike1 wrote in post #12651379 (external link)
PMCphotography: what do you mean by "on a crop"?
Thanks!


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Jun 24, 2011 17:13 |  #25

bruisergirl wrote in post #12610782 (external link)
This thread has been really useful to me. But I had some problems trying to incorporate the information in a recent group photo (not a wedding). I posted a thread in the general section and got some great responses, but I also wanted to ask here specifically about the DOF calculator.

It was my first time using a tripod, and I assumed that (1) with the 10-second timer there would be no camera shake, so I could use a slower shutter speed, and (2) based on the DOF calculator (40D, 30 1.4, subject distance 15 ft), I could use f2.5 (which would give an ample DOF of 7.7 ft) and thus a lower ISO. There wasn't a ton of light (I also bounced a flash behind me to the upper right), which is why I didn't want to use too small an aperture if f2.5 was enough.

I thought everything would be super sharp, but instead it was noticeably blurry. Here's the photo (external link) (EXIF 1/160, 2.5, ISO400). I originally started with 1/60 but eventually went to 1/160 because of the blurriness. I used AF to focus on the woman's blue sleeve (on the left) because (1) I'm not good at focusing and recomposing and (2) I figured that with DOF 7.7 ft, everyone would be in focus also. Not only is the sleeve not in focus, but also I can't figure out what the camera focused on (although someone pointed out possibly a plug outlet by the wall, yikes).

I may have to turn off AF next time (although I'm nervous because my eyes aren't great with MF), and I'm also wondering about the minimum focusing distance with the 30 1.4. Which brings me to the DOF calculator. I'm not exactly sure what I did wrong. I thought I had figured it out, but a few people suggested that it's not always accurate and that I really should stick to smaller apertures just to be safe.

Anyway, I apologize for the long newbie rambling, but any advice is greatly appreciated. I really want to figure this out!

Thank you!

You DOF was too narrow, go for F8 with group shots. ISO 800, F8, 1/200th, flash bounced behind you and to the left.

If you want opinions on a photos sharpness you need to post a 100% crop, to show the detail.


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bruisergirl
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Jun 25, 2011 23:31 |  #26

Thanks for the advice! I will take dof charts with a grain of salt in the future and use a narrower aperture. About everyone not being in the same line of focus, I thought I had taken that in consideration--I estimated a depth of about 5 feet from the front subjects to the back, which is why I assumed everyone would be in focus--but obviously I miscalculated something and should have used a safer narrower aperture. Duly noted!


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Jun 26, 2011 10:51 |  #27

My favourite group shot lens is 200 f/2L IS at f/2 - I love telephoto compression and blurry backgrounds. Not a fan of the wide angle stretchy look


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