Is there anyway to get the perfect shot while someone is jumping?

I need tips. This is my friend juming in mid air. The hands got a little blurry. I think the blur came from me focusing the meter point on her face. Maybe I should of focused the meter spot all over the picture to get a better effect. I am learning to do shots while people are moving. She wants me to do pictures of her running in a white dress. That will be a tough one for me

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Well, a high enough SS should stop all the motion blur, and use a F stop that is small enough to get all of her inside the DOF.

IMO i think that jumping pics looks better if you include the ground or at least so you can actually see that she is jumping

Best regards

flash freezes action

those also look a bit overexposed

might be worth learning how to uses flashes and get an external one with a remote trigger

Thank you for the tips. I know hahaha I wanted the get the sky so I kneeled down and took photos. Well there is a picture of her jumping on a bench, but I think I will let that picture pass since it is 100 times worser than these I will try to and do exacly what you wrote And I will post pics to show the effect

Hmm I don't use flash outdoors because I get worried about too much light being processed on to the photo. But I may consider buying the trigger for me external flash.

Grumbledook wrote in post #12188566
flash freezes action

those also look a bit overexposed

might be worth learning how to uses flashes and get an external one with a remote trigger

That don't work if you are shooting in broad daylight, Flash is useful when you have to shoot in darkness or feel the need for some fillflash to light up the shadows.

These photos are as you say overexposed so she should just raise her f-stop and her shutterspeed and she will be good.

But if you are shooting in a place where you can't get a fast enough shutterspeed flash is a good thing to use, like nightclubs and such.

Grumbledook wrote in post #12188566
flash freezes action

Sure, if you are shooting 4-5 stops over ambient. With a sync-speed of 1/250, you'll need to be shooting a very small aperture and will need some powerful strobes. Not really a viable solution in this case.

Below is the exif for the first image you posted.

The SS of 1/200 is not really enough to stop action

Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 500D
Image Date: 2011-04-05 10:29:33 +0200
Focal Length: 24.0mm
Aperture: f/5.6
Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200)
ISO equiv: 200
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB
GPS Coordinate: undefined, undefined

Palladium wrote in post #12188600
Below is tghe exif for the first image you posted.

The SS of 1/200 is not really enough to stop action

+1

You want to be shooting 1/800 or faster for action. Outdoors, you have plenty of light for this. No need to shoot at ISO 200, raise it to 400.

Gatorboy wrote in post #12188609
+1

You want to be shooting 1/800 or faster for action. Outdoors, you have plenty of light for this. No need to shoot at ISO 200, raise it to 400.

+2

Grumbledook wrote in post #12188566
flash freezes action

those also look a bit overexposed

might be worth learning how to uses flashes and get an external one with a remote trigger

With the exception of the overexposed comment, disregard this post. Flash freezes action only in the absence of ambient light in your exposure which is not the case when shooting during the day. Off camera flash only changes your light angle and with the exception of some of the new TTL capable triggers, still locks you into 1/250 or less shutter speeds because of sync limitations.

There is really no situation that using flashes in a daylight environment will fix the issue you are trying to improve. HSS can give you options for improving fill lighting but that is about all you will gain with a flash.

Fast shutter speed, DOF control, even lighting and proper exposure are the answer.

meter for the background, and use OFC to light your subject. it's not too difficult

The fastest shutter speed possible for sure, but there is another trick as well:

What goes up pauses for an instant before coming back down. This is an old trick we had to use back in the old days when we were doing sports photography with leaf-shuttered press cameras that maxed out at 1/250 or 1/400.

We trained our shutter fingers to release so that (even considering shutter lag), the shutter would open in that precise moment that a rising body paused before beginning to descend. It worked on Doctor J when he was in high school.

Jumping is absolutely entirely about lighting and angle; you have to either control the light or shoot when you can get some sun rays to directly "bathe" the subject without too many shadows.

If you have a camera that runs well at mid-iso, run it at about 400 (or 800 if necessary) and go from f/4-5.6. This holds for a full frame though.