Focussing technique for UWA - Tokina 12-24

I use my Tokina + Crop combo for interiors, group shots & landscapes.

My Tokina in auto focus, focuses always between 1+ to 2+ meters on its scale, for any distance from few meters to infinity. Earlier I used to think that it is bad lens piece, however I have now convinced myself (right or wrong) that the focusing algorithm takes focusing from near distance toward longer distance while autofocusing. Autofocusing stops when acceptable focus is reached, which is typically between 1.5 to 2 plus meters for these focul lengths and f5.6+.

Now I use following tchnique to use this lens: While using this conbo I broadly keep in mind that from 12 to 17 mm focal range (at f5.6+), every thing beyond 2 meters is with in acceptable focus. Now the Tokina has long focus scale markings going up to 2 meters. From 2 meters to infinity the scale is hardly one centimeter long. Therefore for my majority photos, including landscape, I keep Tokina in manual focus and keep focus at just below 2 meters or just above 2 meters mark. I get good sharp landscapes. Group of peoples photographs (indoor, f4 or f5.6), the pictures come out OK sharp (I wish they were more sharp)

Any comments / advise from forum is welcome. Thanking in advance.

Do you have LiveView?

Only problem with your theory is focusing is done wide open at F4 with your lens

I haven't had any problems focusing this lens with autofocus and since it "ain't broke, why fix it?"

ssmanak wrote in post #12232931
I use my Tokina + Crop combo for interiors, group shots & landscapes.

My Tokina in auto focus, focuses always between 1+ to 2+ meters on its scale, for any distance from few meters to infinity. Earlier I used to think that it is bad lens piece, however I have now convinced myself (right or wrong) that the focusing algorithm takes focusing from near distance toward longer distance while autofocusing.

How do you have the AF set on the camera ? Single point ? If so, it's not going to use a focus point that has not been selected so what you describe isn't going to happen unless something is defective.

ssmanak wrote in post #12232931
My Tokina in auto focus, focuses always between 1+ to 2+ meters on its scale, for any distance from few meters to infinity. Earlier I used to think that it is bad lens piece, however I have now convinced myself (right or wrong) that the focusing algorithm takes focusing from near distance toward longer distance while autofocusing. Autofocusing stops when acceptable focus is reached, which is typically between 1.5 to 2 plus meters for these focul lengths and f5.6+.

I had exactly the same issue with a new Tokina 12-24 and sent it back.

I first tried very hard to convince myself it was user error, but found that under no circumstances would it focus past 3 m using the centre AF point. I tried very contrasty, isolated distant targets, tried starting at the minimum focus distance, tried starting at the maximum focus distance, tried two other bodies, and everything else I could think of.

And no way was 3 m acceptable focus to me. Even with an UWA, that leaves distant objects obviously blurry. Of course live view focus worked just fine, but that is not always practical.

The deciding point was when I noticed that it would reliably achieve correct focus for some, but not all, corner focus points, again on different bodies.

I could have tried sending it to Tokina, but didn't want to risk getting beyond the return date for B&H (who gave me no trouble), and didn't want to spend $400 for what would effectively be a MF lens. A shame, though, because I found it very sharp when things were in focus.

JHutter wrote in post #12240097
I had exactly the same issue with a new Tokina 12-24 and sent it back.

I first tried very hard to convince myself it was user error, but found that under no circumstances would it focus past 3 m using the centre AF point. I tried very contrasty, isolated distant targets, tried starting at the minimum focus distance, tried starting at the maximum focus distance, tried two other bodies, and everything else I could think of.

And no way was 3 m acceptable focus to me. Even with an UWA, that leaves distant objects obviously blurry. Of course live view focus worked just fine, but that is not always practical.

The deciding point was when I noticed that it would reliably achieve correct focus for some, but not all, corner focus points, again on different bodies.

I could have tried sending it to Tokina, but didn't want to risk getting beyond the return date for B&H (who gave me no trouble), and didn't want to spend $400 for what would effectively be a MF lens. A shame, though, because I found it very sharp when things were in focus.

That is precisely my problem. Now I use the lens in manual focus only. It is a pity and I can not return it since I bought it some months back without a user warranty.

Any forum member who also had this problem and has found a solution.

is this also possible for the 11-16? first time shooting daytime yesterday and noticed the background was a little blurry on wide landscape shots. gona have to double check though..

never had that issue with my 11-16.. i have shot with f2.8 and the results are acceptable. mine is pretty much like a prime. it lives at 11mm between f4-10.

You have to pay attention to the hyperfocal distance on these lenses. If you shoot with too little DOF your forground will be blurry, if you pull it in to get the foreground in focus you may lose distance detail.

I've found that I have to use the center point only for AF with ultrawides. I think the extreme field curvature a lot of ultrawides have causes problems with AF near the edges.

nikesupremedunk wrote in post #12244788
is this also possible for the 11-16? first time shooting daytime yesterday and noticed the background was a little blurry on wide landscape shots. gona have to double check though..

Yep, mine copy had that problem, randomly missing focus at infinity and failing to refocus at close distances when changing lens to subject distance. I just sent it back.

tkbslc wrote in post #12245121
I've found that I have to use the center point only for AF with ultrawides. I think the extreme field curvature a lot of ultrawides have causes problems with AF near the edges.

I found the same. Although the top and bottom points appear ok. The points farther toward the left and right edges of the frame don't work the greatest. Although I find with the 11-16mm its so rediculously easy to manual focus it provided you don't want isolation and aren't too close to your subject. 7ft at F4 or 5ish ft at F5.6 works well and just leave it there. I tried the literal hyperfocal distance numbers but found them a bit optimistic for my standards and there wasn't enough far detail.

i just did a quick test on my 11-16, shot a building across the street and noticed the AF would not go past the 7 ft/2m mark. no matter where i chose to focus (which seemed more than 7 feet away) it would not go into infinity under AF. so i took a shot AF @ 7ft and took a shot MF @ inf and after looking at both results the 7 ft with AF was perfectly in focus while the MF @ inf was not...should do more tests though