Hired for a job where speedlight might be only solution - help please?

High School after prom party. Event to be hosted at a middle-school gym. My job is to take candid shots of kids for 2 hours and deliver shots to be considered / included in 2011 year book.

I'm guessing my 430 EX II is going to be the safest solution. I'm not dragging lights, softboxes and an assistant since the timing of the shoot is 11:30 pm - 1:30 am.

What to you guys think? Speedlight on camera bounced from ceiling with a bounce (flash card) card to forward some light onto subjects? Any better solutions that you can recommend? Will my idea result in a a lot of red-eye issues?

Thanks in advance for helping.

dave

Google black foamie thing...

How are you going to bounce off a gym ceiling? Aren't those things really high?

You could, and this is just one suggestion, take the route that some BBall shooter do: Post lights high in the corners and walk around and shoot at will?

mtimber wrote in post #12253523
Google black foamie thing...

LOL it's a real thing LMAO!

And it is the single most brilliant invention for inside photography ever.

Costs about £1.00...

I don't think bouncing is going to be an option.... what about getting a mini softbox for on camera HSF?

Take a look at Rogue Flashbender reflectors.
http://photo-tips-online.com …ue-flashbender-reflector/

The black foamie thing really does help in my testing. But it is not a one-stop solution. It's main use is to flag the direct light from your on-camera flash. It's all about technique; but I'm sure most here know this...
What I'm thinking to do, for those run-and-gun deals, is to get a lastolite reflector(http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …flector_Silver_​White.html) and just go around with that. Then again, all the shots will have mostly the same lighting.
I need to get off this forum and try some of this stuff I keep suggesting!!!

Hey there Snyderman, good to see you.

Gyms are tough shooting venues from a lighting standpoint with those miserable high ceilings. There likely will be some ambient light in the form of background spots, color gels, strobes, etc. This won't be enough to provide adequate illumination but it can provide visual interest.

I would certainly use your 430ex in the bounce position - it will provide sufficient foreground illumination for candids, very nicely from 3' to around 12' - run the camera in Manual mode, an ISO of at least 800, drag the shutter at around 1/30 - 1/50, and aperture around f/5.6 or open a bit more depending upon the lens. A Stoffen won't be very effective; walls and ceiling too far away and that dome will just scatter and suck the light. The Lumiquest 80/20 will work:

http://www.lumiquest.c​om/products/80-20.htm

as will just a simple piece of cardboard or white foamboard velcroed to the head, to kick some fill light forward. I've used this technique a lot for dark wedding receptions and it works very well:

http://www.pbase.com/s​apearl/image/78309081

My slight difference is that I have the 580ex with the retractable white card that is very functional. I don't get any red eye with my setup at all - but then I've got the 580 mounted on a very compact Newton bracket which raises it an additional 4-6" above the lens.

Heloo Dave. I have used bounce flash in the gym for "Senior Night" a time or two. The problem is the light drop off because of such a big place. I was very pleased with the results.

Recently I bought an 8x12" soft box made by Interfit. It seems to me this might be an option to consider, especially if you are shooting pretty close. Below is a sample using the softbox on the 580. It was one of my first shots in my living room, which is 15x25 with 15 foot ceilings. No ambient light other than the overhead light so it was mostly flash. My subject decided to take a nap shortly after she finished her pudding, so I don't have but a few more.
It was part of this kit.
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …trobies_Portrai​t_Kit.html

Hope this helps.

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If it was me doing this, since it is a rather difficult lighting situation, I'd put my flash on my stroboframe to get it away from the lens. I'd keep away from the telephoto lenses to avoid any red eye, and if you use a high enough ISO to take in some ambient light, then perhpas the deflector on the flash will be good enough for fill.

I know those gymnasiums can be dimly lit for parties and I can't really see bouncing off the ceiling.
I've had pretty good results at receptions using the Stroboframe. You still get shadows so only way to avoid that is making sure enough available light fills the background.

Like Randy said, but get a second flash (rent if necessary), and put it on a rolling stand like an IV stand:

http://super.nova.org/​DPR/Canon/MultiCanon/

And yes, that's one example of the "black foamie thing".

Here is a link to a cheap IV stand:

http://www.amazon.com …Poles-4-Leg/dp/B000M8FQZO

Just raise your ISO to like 1600. use a sto-fen or the whitecard, or make ABBC.

Guys,

thanks for the info so far. Appreciate the useful comments and ideas.

Additional info: I do have an adjustable stroboframe. Thought it would be useful for flash football but not so much.

Think I might use the s-frame to get the flash further from the lens and possibly the lumiquest bounce card.

dave

snyderman wrote in post #12254328
Guys,

thanks for the info so far. Appreciate the useful comments and ideas.

Additional info: I do have an adjustable stroboframe. Thought it would be useful for flash football but not so much.

Think I might use the s-frame to get the flash further from the lens and possibly the lumiquest bounce card.

dave

I think the Stroboframe will be an excellent help Dave, as it will give you better modelling, more natural looking illumination, and avoid red eye. I used one of those for years when I shot medium format.

I do use a Stoffen when the rooms are small and the walls and ceilings are close, but a gym is the wrong environment; it will just drain your batteries. The Lumiquest products are great, and you can always dial back the flash FEC a bit if some of the shots get a bit too hot.