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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 25 Apr 2011 (Monday) 01:00
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Strobing in daylight in a field?

 
edge100
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Apr 26, 2011 10:06 |  #31

bobbyz wrote in post #12294980 (external link)
One more thing, I am still puzzled little bit. If single flash can't do f16 in regular mode then even two flashes can't do that when in HSS mode. You loose almost 3 stops when going to HSS mode so adding 1 more flash won't gain that close to 3 stop drop. I wish blog was more clear into all this.

One Speedlite could have given me f/11 for sure, and probably f/16 if I zoomed the head a bit tighter. So your first premise is wrong.

Second, by opening to f/3.2, I've effectively increased the power of my Speedlites by over four stops vs. f/16. This counteracts the power loss associated with HSS.

Then I added a second Speedlite, which gives me one additional stop.

So...

1/100 @ f/16 = ambient, and could get good flash exposure with two Speedlites (maybe one if zoomed)
1/400 @ f/16 = ambient down 2 stops, which is what I wanted, but can't sync @ 1/400
1/8000 @ f/3.2 = ambient down 2 stops, lose ~4 stops of flash with HSS**, but gain it back with f/3.2

** - let's not forget that I'm not actually losing 4 stops with HSS; it's more like 3 stops, since I'm using PocketWizard FlexTT5s as my remote trigger, and these have a very efficient HSS mode (external link).

An ND filter would have accomplished the same thing. But...

1. I didn't have a 4 stop ND filter with me, and
2. A good quality 77mm 1.2 ND filter is not cheap.

HSS lets me accomplish this without buying anything I don't already have. Coupled with the PW system, I'm able to easily achieve results that would have been very difficult to achieve with strobes, and without having to lug strobes around with me on vacation, to boot.


Street and editorial photography in Toronto, Canada (external link)
Mirrorless: Fujifilm X-Pro1
Film: Leica MP | Leica M2 | CV Nokton 35/1.4 | CV Nokton 40 f/1.4 | Leitz Summitar 50 f/2 | Canon 50 f/1.2 LTM | Mamiya 7 | Mamiya 80 f/4.0 | Mamiya 150 f/4.5 | Mamiya 43 f/4.5
How to get good colour from C-41 film scans (external link)

Digitizing film with a digital camera (external link)

  
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BoneJj
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Apr 26, 2011 10:09 |  #32

bobbyz wrote in post #12295252 (external link)
It is B+W 3 stop ND filter. New ones are around $90 or so for 77mm size.

it would be smarter to go with the plates vs the screw on filters. with screw on they will only work with that size lens. with the plates you can swap them for just about all your lenses.

As long as you aren't using lenses with a rotating front element then you are fine.


--Bone | FSS (external link) | flickr (external link) | Gear list (external link) |

  
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edge100
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Apr 26, 2011 10:11 |  #33

bobbyz wrote in post #12294946 (external link)
ND filter, simple.

here, @f9
QUOTED IMAGE

Now with ND filter, @f3.2
QUOTED IMAGE

You much better off using your hot shoe strobes at your max sycn speed with ND filters than using HSS mode. I am not denouncing HSS mode, I use both modes. BTW - the VF wasn't bad when using 3 stop filter.

Nice images.

I have nothing against using ND filters. They work very well for this purpose.

But let's not make them out to be the cure-all for this problem. They have their issues, too. Namely, once you get beyond 3 stops or so, the viewfinder becomes very, very dim (and at the extremes, may actually interfere with AF performance). They are also not cheap.

On the other hand, they do allow you to achieve this look with strobes, should you wish.

HSS is obviously unique to Speedlites (though PW HyperSync is a great tool if you have only strobes), and it's not perfect either. You lose a lot of light this way (though you also lose a lot with ND filters), and you will more than likely need multiple Speedlites to achieve the effect.

Horses for courses.


Street and editorial photography in Toronto, Canada (external link)
Mirrorless: Fujifilm X-Pro1
Film: Leica MP | Leica M2 | CV Nokton 35/1.4 | CV Nokton 40 f/1.4 | Leitz Summitar 50 f/2 | Canon 50 f/1.2 LTM | Mamiya 7 | Mamiya 80 f/4.0 | Mamiya 150 f/4.5 | Mamiya 43 f/4.5
How to get good colour from C-41 film scans (external link)

Digitizing film with a digital camera (external link)

  
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gonzogolf
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Apr 26, 2011 10:12 |  #34

BoneJj wrote in post #12295474 (external link)
it would be smarter to go with the plates vs the screw on filters. with screw on they will only work with that size lens. with the plates you can swap them for just about all your lenses.

As long as you aren't using lenses with a rotating front element then you are fine.

Depends on your lens collection. A 77mm with a single step down ring will work on 3 of my 4 L lenses. A second step down and I'm covered across the board and I dont have to deal with the plate accessory system.




  
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BoneJj
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Apr 26, 2011 10:15 |  #35

gonzogolf wrote in post #12295491 (external link)
Depends on your lens collection. A 77mm with a single step down ring will work on 3 of my 4 L lenses. A second step down and I'm covered across the board and I dont have to deal with the plate accessory system.

true, but if you want to use other plates then you have the option. It can make for a nice setup.


--Bone | FSS (external link) | flickr (external link) | Gear list (external link) |

  
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Strobing in daylight in a field?
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