kwsanders wrote:
Jim and Doc, you both make very good points that I agree with. I have seen that as I play around with the different creative zones on the camera and read posts from some of you who have been in this forum and doing this for a while, I am getting better with my photo taking.
I would think that the more a person knows about photography, lighting, composition, etc., they should be able to make all the proper settings in M mode and get a perfect shot. The camera might make it easy in some of the other modes, but it might not be the way that you, as the photographer, wants the shot to come out in the end.
No offense to you Sanders, you just happen to be the one I'm replying to, but this is one of the dumbest arguments that has come across this board yet.
Let me break this down in the simplest way possible to understand. There are 4 main camera "settings" to any given photo. There's focal length which you select through choice of lens and the magnification you turn to on a zoom lens. There's the speed of the medium (medium as in film or digital) which is the ISO. There's the aperature which is a diaphram that controls the amount of light the lens allows through, and finally there's the shutter which controls how long that amount of light is exposed to the medium.
If I, in Av mode, want to take a shot, I will still control the focal length, the ISO, and the aperature value. The camera will use its built-in light meter to determine the proper shutter speed for this scene with the ISO/Aperature combo I've selected, give it to me in a fraction of a second, and let me take the shot.
The rest of you sadists, will set those values, then have to point your camera at the target, half depress the shutter, watch this little light meter/graph thing show up in the bottom of the display, and rotate either a second wheel, or a combination of button and wheel, to move a little slider left and right until it falls on the center. Surprise!! That's the same light meter that determined my shutter speed and in a fraction of a second set it for me automatically. All in all this will probably take those of you who are good at it, merely a second assuming that the existing values are close to what the proper values are for this latest shot ... that still doesn't detract from the fact that its more work, takes longer, and provides no benefit to almost all shots (see, I didn't use a percentage number, are you happy now??)
So of course, you're argument will be, "Well, what if I'm trying to expose to something other than what the meter suggests, aren't you SOL?". Umm, no.
If we're changing exposure to compensate for a dark skin tone for example, all I have to do is move my exposure compensation dial, quite similar to you moving the "other" Manual dial ... done. Ironically, my exposure compensation allows for exactly the same number of exposure stops as the dinky light meter in your display, so you have absolutely zero advantage there as well. Also if I, for example, were taking a picture of something that was significantly brighter or darker than the "scene" and I wanted to make sure that the "scene" was correctly exposed, all I have to do is half depress my shutter on the "scene" just as you do, I whack the AE lock button, recompose, and shoot. You have exactly the same number of steps in that scenario, but you have to rotate that dial until you get it in the center ... in other words you're slower than me again.
As I said earlier, the ONLY place that M makes any sense whatsoever is in a studio where a dedicated light-meter leads the way or in special flash situations that the camera has trouble figuring out. Any other use of M by regular people in relatively "normal" shooting conditions is simply a way for some people to appear more "professional" in an online forum. No offense.
Bill in Brooklyn