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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 29 Apr 2011 (Friday) 13:29
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20D keeps firing...

 
Rubi ­ Jane
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Apr 29, 2011 13:29 |  #1

So my old trusty back-up 20D gave up the goat last weekend. It's occasionally used by a photography student that shoots events with me. She came to me mid-race saying she'd tried everything but the camera kept continuously firing. She grabbed another body out of the kit and went back to finish the race.

I've removed all batteries, the grip, the clock battery, tried different lenses, but as soon as the camera is turned on it starts to fire. Shutter release button doesn't appear to be stuck as the button springs back.

I was thinking it wasn't worth fixing and was going to pick up a 7D but decided to call Canon Canada. Flat rate fix on a 20D is $199, $159.20 with my CPS discount. For that small price I'll do the fix. The model still puts out great images (lenses can take credit for that) and it's a shame to ditch it. I'm also hoping to hand it to my 6 year old son in a couple of years.


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jwcdds
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Apr 29, 2011 14:40 |  #2

If there was a question, I missed it. But sure... it'll be a great camera for your 6-y.o. :)


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NinetyEight
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Apr 29, 2011 14:46 |  #3

Nothing wrong with the 20D, still a very capable body - But to give up the excuse to upgrade to a 7D ??? :-)


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Rubi ­ Jane
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Apr 30, 2011 00:43 |  #4

jwcdds wrote in post #12317484 (external link)
If there was a question, I missed it. But sure... it'll be a great camera for your 6-y.o. :)

Nope, not really a question unless someone weighs in with reason other than shutter for the continuous firing ;-)a

NinetyEight wrote in post #12317515 (external link)
Nothing wrong with the 20D, still a very capable body - But to give up the excuse to upgrade to a 7D ??? :-)

Yes, the 20D is still very capable, hence my reason to repair for the small price tag. I still need to pick up another body, just debating on exactly what. Problem is my business is divided. On one hand the 7D would be the right choice for my race & sports jobs, while a 5DMkII would make more sense for my portrait commercial work. I 'could' truly use both but which comes first is my dilemma.


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joeseph
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Apr 30, 2011 03:13 |  #5

Rubi Jane wrote in post #12320420 (external link)
Nope, not really a question unless someone weighs in with reason other than shutter for the continuous firing ;-)a

long silence.... ;)

you could always confirm for us that the camera does this in 1-shot mode, then we'd all stop wondering if the shutter switch has glued itself together...

while I'm thinking of other excuses for the shutter, can you cheack wether there's actual shots being recorded on the CF card or is the shutter just flailing away for the hell of it?


some fairly old canon camera stuff, canon lenses, Manfrotto "thingy", and an M5, also an M6 that has had a 720nm filter bolted onto the sensor:
TF posting: here :-)

  
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raksphoto
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Apr 30, 2011 03:21 |  #6

Rubi Jane wrote in post #12317227 (external link)
So my old trusty back-up 20D gave up the goat last weekend. It's occasionally used by a photography student that shoots events with me. She came to me mid-race saying she'd tried everything but the camera kept continuously firing. She grabbed another body out of the kit and went back to finish the race.

I've removed all batteries, the grip, the clock battery, tried different lenses, but as soon as the camera is turned on it starts to fire. Shutter release button doesn't appear to be stuck as the button springs back.

I was thinking it wasn't worth fixing and was going to pick up a 7D but decided to call Canon Canada. Flat rate fix on a 20D is $199, $159.20 with my CPS discount. For that small price I'll do the fix. The model still puts out great images (lenses can take credit for that) and it's a shame to ditch it. I'm also hoping to hand it to my 6 year old son in a couple of years.

Your experience exactly matches mine at a belly dance show in 2005, where my 20D died on me in the same way. It was this show that taught me always have a backup body! I spent 20 minutes trying to "resurrect" my poor baby, going through all the stages of grief, before I had to force myself to call a friend to drive across the SF Bay Area to bring me the 10D I didn't bring to the show ... and ugh that 10D was slow!

Because I needed to have my 20D working, I had to buy another one immediately, while the one that died went out for repair. So, now I have a pair of 20D's, and generally stick with the pair plan. I had (2) 1D Mark III's, but one has gotten seriously damaged; my main work horses are a pair of 7D's.

But the 20D is special, I think I'll keep those cameras for a long time, and 8.2MP is still useful. Having extra bodies like the 20D amidst other cameras allows some time-saving fun in the studio ... already having the Lens Baby on a 20D, or having a camera pre-set for black-and-white mode ... just pick up the camera and go.


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ilguercio
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Apr 30, 2011 04:21 as a reply to  @ raksphoto's post |  #7

The shutter seems dead. Ironically, it keeps firing to show you that it won't work.
;)




  
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sakisf
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Apr 30, 2011 04:55 |  #8

I had the same issue when I disassembled the 350D to disable the lens af confirm. It was caused when I had the metallic plate below the mirror box removed. As soon as I was putting it back in place and screwing it the mirror would stop clicking. If you feel adventurous you can disassemble the camera and check if it's firm in place. A drop could have pushed it out of it's place - to me it seemed to be working like some grounding check. For USD 160 you can buy a working used 20D.




  
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Rubi ­ Jane
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Apr 30, 2011 21:56 |  #9

joeseph wrote in post #12320904 (external link)
long silence.... ;)

you could always confirm for us that the camera does this in 1-shot mode, then we'd all stop wondering if the shutter switch has glued itself together...

while I'm thinking of other excuses for the shutter, can you cheack wether there's actual shots being recorded on the CF card or is the shutter just flailing away for the hell of it?

I'd love to confirm that the firing continues in 1-shot mode but I'm not able to interrupt the firing to even change from continuous to 1-shot. There are no images being captured on the card. In fact, a couple of shots will fire off when I open the memory door and again when I insert a card, even though the power is OFF.


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joeseph
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May 02, 2011 03:21 |  #10

Rubi Jane wrote in post #12324825 (external link)
There are no images being captured on the card.

then I think we can safely say the shutter will need replacing. There are microswitches on the shutter that tell the electronics when the curtains are open or closed & I think what happens is one of these has stopped functioning - and the CPU keeps telling the shutter to cycle again so it can work out where it is...


some fairly old canon camera stuff, canon lenses, Manfrotto "thingy", and an M5, also an M6 that has had a 720nm filter bolted onto the sensor:
TF posting: here :-)

  
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simonjs
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May 02, 2011 05:15 |  #11

I had exactly the same problem 3 years ago and as I had already had the body repaired once for a problem with the flash I decided it was a good excuse to upgrade to the 40D.




  
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Woodworker
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May 02, 2011 05:31 |  #12

jwcdds wrote in post #12317484 (external link)
If there was a question, I missed it. But sure... it'll be a great camera for your 6-y.o. :)

Might be a bit heavy for a child to handle though.

David


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sakisf
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May 02, 2011 06:32 |  #13

Rubi Jane wrote in post #12324825 (external link)
I'd love to confirm that the firing continues in 1-shot mode but I'm not able to interrupt the firing to even change from continuous to 1-shot. There are no images being captured on the card. In fact, a couple of shots will fire off when I open the memory door and again when I insert a card, even though the power is OFF.

Don't replace the shutter yet. This sounds more like something else going wrong in electronics, a short in the on/off button perhaps. Check the pin that is being pushed by the battery cover/grip inside the camera when they close, if the pin is not being pushed inside the camera when the cover/grip gets attached but the battery connectors still connect it will do what you describe.




  
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Rubi ­ Jane
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May 03, 2011 01:25 |  #14

sakisf wrote in post #12331687 (external link)
Don't replace the shutter yet. This sounds more like something else going wrong in electronics, a short in the on/off button perhaps. Check the pin that is being pushed by the battery cover/grip inside the camera when they close, if the pin is not being pushed inside the camera when the cover/grip gets attached but the battery connectors still connect it will do what you describe.

The pin appears to be "loose". I've given my husband the go ahead to tinker ;-)a if he can figure out what's wrong and get a replacement part then fine, but in the meantime I'll pick up a new camera (probably 7D) and move the other bodies down the service line.

Thanks for the help.


Lindsey
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Rubi ­ Jane
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Jul 18, 2011 22:30 |  #15

The update...
I finally dropped the 20D into Canon Service in Mississauga a week and a half ago, 2 business days later I got the call it was ready to go, pretty good turnaround. In no hurry for it, I actually picked up the body today. New shutter, CMOS cleaned & firmware updated (I thought it was updated, but what do I know). Cost $180 including taxes and she's ready to take many more shots. Another year or so and my son will be testing her out.


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20D keeps firing...
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