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Thread started 30 Apr 2011 (Saturday) 01:59
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Fast lens for indoors ?

 
thewolf555
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Apr 30, 2011 01:59 |  #1

Hello guys,
I primarily shoot just as a hobby during spare time. not as a serious pro.
I wanted to shoot some family functions and a couple of friends weddings, i was wondering what would be a better choice on a crop body ?

1- ef 35mm f/2
2 - Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 non-vc version

already owning a 50 1.8, i was satisfied with its decent low noise performance even at ISO 800. but it is proving a bit tight for indoor shots. Of course 17-50 would give me added versatility of a zoom, but i have no idea of its performance at higher ISO.
I will would be disposing of my 18-55 kit lens shortly, but i am confused between the two choices i stated above. Although i am tilting a bit in favor of Tammy.

I would highly appreciate if you have any suggestions that would help me decide the right one. :)


cheers
- Bhanu
---------------
Rebel XS , 18-55mm IS, 50mm f/1.8 and 55-250mm IS

  
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Significa
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Apr 30, 2011 02:13 |  #2

35mm f2 imo, I use to have the tamron 17-50mm 2.8 but it doesn't do that well indoors. It tends to hunt a lot and you have to turn the ISO way up (btw ISO performance is based on your sensor not lenses)


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sbattey
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Apr 30, 2011 02:19 |  #3
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Have you considered the sigma 30mm 1.4?


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andrikos
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Apr 30, 2011 02:20 |  #4

f/2.8 will not be big enough aperture for indoors poor/low lighting for your XS.

Also look into EF 28/f1.8, Sigma 30 f/1.4.

Of course, you can move up to a higher ISO body... ;)


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raksphoto
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Apr 30, 2011 02:21 |  #5

I've found for low-light, you need a prime, and a lens generally faster than f/2.8. The EF 35mm f/2 works pretty well, but it is a tad bit slow in focusing, and can hunt sometimes. A zoom does offer flexibility yes, but I think you will find it not quite fast enough, unless you run ISO > 3200. The disadvantage of a prime can be somewhat overcome you can move around wrt your subject in low-light.

I use the 35mm focal length on a 7D at ISO 3200-6400 to photograph belly dancers in extremely dim and contrasty club lighting. The 7D has a FoVCF of 1.6x, so this focal length works out to be 56mm equivalent view. I'd say at a working distance of ~3m, with this view, the belly dancer fills the frame with some edge room for veil flips above/around her.

If you are willing to up the ISO, and you have dim, but not extremely dim light, the f/2.8 zoom can work well, and of course would give you more compositional freedom. That particular lens though, I don't know how sharp it is wide open. It could be you need to work at f/3.5-f/4 to get an acceptable sharpness, and that of course militates against low-light use.

As a related matter, in case you'd not heard of this technique, you can definitely improve your autofocus in dim light by using selective autofocus, a feature of the camera where you place the focus dot (or zone, an option for the 7D) on the area of interest. This is *much* better than using full autofocus, esp. when dealing with moving people. This way, you don't get the background in sharp focus, but the person you were photographing is blurred.

Just another comment ... the lens performance is fairly unrelated to the ISO performance of your camera. That is to say, the lens itself will not fare worse, if the ISO is increased.

Hope these are helpful comments ...


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xarqi
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Apr 30, 2011 02:50 |  #6

Why not get a flash?




  
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pxchoi
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Apr 30, 2011 03:00 |  #7

xarqi wrote in post #12320866 (external link)
Why not get a flash?

I agree, I think bouncing flash off the ceiling or a wall is a must have for low light situations.


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megrac
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Apr 30, 2011 03:04 |  #8

xarqi wrote in post #12320866 (external link)
Why not get a flash?

Totaly agree. Big aperture only fixes somethings, what it dosn't do is give you DOF for indoor group shots.

Get a good flash.


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NinetyEight
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Apr 30, 2011 03:58 |  #9

xarqi wrote in post #12320866 (external link)
Why not get a flash?

megrac wrote in post #12320892 (external link)
Totaly agree. Big aperture only fixes somethings, what it dosn't do is give you DOF for indoor group shots.

Get a good flash.

+1

Best thing you can do IMO, especially if you learn to bounce it off ceilings/walls etc. (watch-out for coloured walls!)

Trying to use a fast f/1.4 lens (or similar) indoors is fine if you want extremely narrow depth-of-field. For most indoor subjects it's too narrow and ends up leading to questions on here about 'things not being in focus when using my fast lens indoors'...


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Lordkwaz
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Apr 30, 2011 04:42 |  #10

NinetyEight wrote in post #12320960 (external link)
+1

Best thing you can do IMO, especially if you learn to bounce it off ceilings/walls etc. (watch-out for coloured walls!)

Trying to use a fast f/1.4 lens (or similar) indoors is fine if you want extremely narrow depth-of-field. For most indoor subjects it's too narrow and ends up leading to questions on here about 'things not being in focus when using my fast lens indoors'...

5.6 and up for group shots and orange walls turn people orange. Anything under 2.8 is for creative usages and subject isolations. A Good flash and practice will do you well


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KVN ­ Photo
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Apr 30, 2011 05:18 |  #11

Sometimes, I just hate to use flash, in case you are in the same position with me, I'd prefer having 35 f/2.0 and keeping your 18-55 until you can afford 17-55 f/2.8 IS.


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supracuhz
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Apr 30, 2011 06:07 |  #12

i never liked tamron's 2.8 series. i'd go for the 35/2. if you have money for the 17-50, look for sigma 30mm. the 35mm is a good lens for its price (compact, but slightly noisy bokeh and loud/slow, but accurate AF), but the sigma (if you get a good copy, unlike me) is a better deal than the 35mm.


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thewolf555
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Apr 30, 2011 06:08 |  #13

i have never worked with flash before, I even try keep away from using the pop up flash as I prefer shooting in ambient / natural light conditions. Yes i would definitely want to go past 2.8 and experimenting more with subject isolation bokeh etc.. Guess it boils down to sigma 30/1.4 and ef35/2.

will work with flashes some time soon though :) , thanks for your suggestions i might probably go in for a sigma 30/1.4 :)


cheers
- Bhanu
---------------
Rebel XS , 18-55mm IS, 50mm f/1.8 and 55-250mm IS

  
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watt100
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Apr 30, 2011 08:07 |  #14

NinetyEight wrote in post #12320960 (external link)
Best thing you can do IMO, especially if you learn to bounce it off ceilings/walls etc. (watch-out for coloured walls!)

Trying to use a fast f/1.4 lens (or similar) indoors is fine if you want extremely narrow depth-of-field. For most indoor subjects it's too narrow and ends up leading to questions on here about 'things not being in focus when using my fast lens indoors'...

true, get an f2.8 zoom and flash and you're good for most indoor shots, e.g. the Tamron 17-50 2.8 or Sigma 17-50 2.8

XSi (450D) with Tamron 17-50 2.8

at f2.8

17mm

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PixelMagic
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Apr 30, 2011 08:17 |  #15

Ahhh...so you're one of those stubborn "natural light" photographers. You'll learn soon enough though. "Photo graphy" means "writing with light"... if you don't have nice clean light your photos will look like crap regardless of the lens. Most low-light photos can be significantly improved by learning how to use a flash judiciously to improve the existing light.

thewolf555 wrote in post #12321147 (external link)
i have never worked with flash before, I even try keep away from using the pop up flash as I prefer shooting in ambient / natural light conditions. Yes i would definitely want to go past 2.8 and experimenting more with subject isolation bokeh etc.. Guess it boils down to sigma 30/1.4 and ef35/2.

will work with flashes some time soon though :) , thanks for your suggestions i might probably go in for a sigma 30/1.4 :)


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Fast lens for indoors ?
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