Calibration Question

huntersdad wrote in post #12329676
...As I physically held the calibration monitor to the screen, I am pretty sure very, very little if any light got under it.

No no no... You must never hold the puck or apply any pressure to it. Use the counterweight on the cord to keep it positioned and tilt the screen back so gravity alone keeps the puck flush against the screen.

Your second calibration should be run immediately after the first run. Do not move the puck between the first run and the second attempt. And disable the ambient light function completely.

tzalman wrote in post #12331540
No flame from this quarter Chas. In an interesting recent thread on the Luminous Landscape forum, started by Ethan Hanson who is testing calibration hardware for the Drycreek site's survey, he recommends leaving the puck lying on the screen for half an hour before running the calibration to warm it. There is even mention in the thread of wearing a black shirt to avoid light from the screen being reflected back to it. This seems a bit extreme, but a dark room would definitely be good.

I've been following that thread. Drycreek's calibrator rating hasn't been updated for years. It seems that the Spyder3 pucks are beginning to earn more respect.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/in​dex.php?topic=53825.0

As for me, at home, I'm a tee shirt/sweat shirt kind of guy, so I typically am wearing a grey or black shirt as I sit in front of my monitor. I have a monitor hood and a matte black desk protector to minimize color reflection from my rich wood office furniture.

As far as warming up the puck... I used to warm the puck passively resting on the screen, but last year I heard a recommendation from someone to actively warm the puck by running an initial profiling, then do a second. The second run usually results in a better profile. (It works for ME)

Only way to calibrate your system ( I think) is to calibrate your monitor and your printer. Spyder will only calibrate the monitor to ambient light. It leave you guessing what your printer will show.
I own a munki. it calibrate the monitor and printer. It give great result. Nothing will give your 100% match because you are trying to match light output to ink output.

Leave your monitor on for a long time before calibrating and make sure it doesn't auto-off. The backlight takes a while to reach steady state and can lead to some really bad results.