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Thread started 02 May 2011 (Monday) 07:18
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who has the T3 / 1100D ?

 
Littlejon ­ Dsgn
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Feb 05, 2013 15:22 as a reply to  @ post 15576042 |  #526

will have to check back this evening at home when I can see the pics :) damn work and their fire walls




  
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ian_socool
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Feb 05, 2013 20:46 |  #527

smaeda wrote in post #15575265 (external link)
Yea, definitely. I want to upgrade, but don't want to upgrade just for the sake of upgrading. I'm just not sure if I am reaching the limit of the body or if it is something I'm not doing correctly. It seems to do great outdoors but ISO noise above 800 is a little distracting and the AF doesn't seem to be very accurate.

Are you kidding me? I have some 3200 low light shots that are crazy. All you have to do is use noise reduction in DPP. I am going to post a 1600 for you.

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The photo white balance is not warm, the house lights have orange gels on them

70D, 80D, SL1, Sigma 10-20 3.5, Σ30mm 1.4, 40mm 2.8 Pancake Σ70mm 2.8 EX DG Macro, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Σ85 1.4, Σ50-150mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM APO, Godox AD 200 X's 2, 430EX II X's 2, Yongnuo YN-560II X's 2, Cowboy Studio wireless flash triggers X4.Ian_socool FlickR (external link) Facebook fanpage (external link) http://ianlynphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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smaeda
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Feb 05, 2013 22:49 |  #528

I guess it is a matter of opinion. I'm not saying anything negative about your photo but to me it looks very soft. Sure the noise level isn't bothersome because of noise reduction, but I would like to use a faster shutter speed to reduce motion blur. But if I do that I'd have to use even higher ISO. Maybe I'm just expecting something unrealistic but thats why I want to know if upgrading will get me closer to what I'm after.


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smaeda
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Feb 05, 2013 23:01 |  #529

Azathoth wrote in post #15576042 (external link)
I disagree. Taken at ISO1600:


;)

I do agree in your case the noise level is acceptable. In the first picture, the subject is silhouetted and the noise in the cloud and sky isn't bothersome. In the second picture, there are lots of rich textures that hide it very well too. However in lowlight conditions while shooting portraits indoors, I still feel the noise level is way more than I would like above 800. Also the subjects eyes turn out softer than I would like. To compensate, I usually have to narrow down the aperture which forces higher ISO if I am to retain an ideal shutter speed. I'm just curious if anyone else has had the same issue and if upgrading the body would help at all.


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Azathoth
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Feb 06, 2013 06:35 |  #530

smaeda wrote in post #15577668 (external link)
Also the subjects eyes turn out softer than I would like. To compensate, I usually have to narrow down the aperture which forces higher ISO if I am to retain an ideal shutter speed. I'm just curious if anyone else has had the same issue and if upgrading the body would help at all.

If you use a big aperture and focus on the nose instead of the eyes, they get slightly blurred because of the very thin depth of field. Maybe that's what is happening.

In my point of view if you want better high iso performance the only obvious choice of upgrade from a 1100D is a full frame camera like a 6D or 5D because i don't see a major improving in that area on other crop cameras.


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smaeda
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Feb 06, 2013 09:16 |  #531

Although I would like to shoot wide open to let more light in during low light conditions, I always step it down 2 or 3 stops just to get a sharper image. Also I always focus on the eyes using center focus and recompose method. It isn't noise that I'm concerned about although I start noticing it past iso 800. I just can't figure out why almost all my photos turn out really soft. Only about 10% of the pictures are sharp in these conditions. I'm starting to think it might be the AF system on the body but I just don't know without having a different body to compare shots with.


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NerdHavoc
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Feb 06, 2013 10:02 |  #532

I have trouble with AF finding focus in anything but daylight.


Canon T3/1100D Canon 18-55mm Kit, Canon 55-250mm, Canon 50mm 1.8

  
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smaeda
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Feb 06, 2013 10:12 |  #533

I feel the same way. Using a speedlight helps quite a bit but alot of the situations flash use is not appropriate. I've tried various lens to see if it helps but still very soft in low light. Would upgrading to a 60D be any better? Or won't make much difference unless getting FF?


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Azathoth
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Feb 06, 2013 14:48 |  #534

smaeda wrote in post #15578806 (external link)
I've tried various lens to see if it helps but still very soft in low light.

I don't know about the other lenses but the 50 1.8 is known to miss focus on those conditions. Try using manual focus.


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ian_socool
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Feb 06, 2013 15:40 |  #535

NerdHavoc wrote in post #15578976 (external link)
I have trouble with AF finding focus in anything but daylight.

If your camera is still under warranty, send it to Canon. When I sent mine in they found a wire for the AF burned out. They replaced it. I will scan the warranty when I get home.
https://photography-on-the.net …p?p=14783801&po​stcount=25


70D, 80D, SL1, Sigma 10-20 3.5, Σ30mm 1.4, 40mm 2.8 Pancake Σ70mm 2.8 EX DG Macro, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Σ85 1.4, Σ50-150mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM APO, Godox AD 200 X's 2, 430EX II X's 2, Yongnuo YN-560II X's 2, Cowboy Studio wireless flash triggers X4.Ian_socool FlickR (external link) Facebook fanpage (external link) http://ianlynphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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smaeda
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Feb 06, 2013 16:02 |  #536

Azathoth wrote in post #15580053 (external link)
I don't know about the other lenses but the 50 1.8 is known to miss focus on those conditions. Try using manual focus.

Yes, I've heard about this. I haven't touched the 50 1.8 in a long time for this very reason.


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trewyn15
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Feb 08, 2013 00:15 |  #537

Got that grip that was talked about a couple posts back.. it's absolutely horrible. I cannot stand it, I got it and the rubber of the grip was peeling off already, the button is in an extremely awkward spot and then I put it on my T3 and it didnt 'even work...

As for not liking the camera for low lights, I think some more learning may need to be done with the camera... most people that bought it buy it because they're starting off, if this is you, learn more and try more before you blame the body or lens... also if you don't have the greatest glass, that could very easily be another issue.

for example...

Taken at f/10 1/15 and ISO-3200... taken with the kit lens, handheld...

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smaeda
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Feb 08, 2013 01:14 |  #538

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Sony A7iii, Irix 15mm f2.4, Tamron 28-75mm f2.8, 85mm f1.4, Sony GM 70-200mm f2.8, Tamron 70-180mm f2.8

  
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Littlejon ­ Dsgn
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Feb 08, 2013 08:14 |  #539

trewyn15 wrote in post #15585711 (external link)
Got that grip that was talked about a couple posts back.. it's absolutely horrible. I cannot stand it, I got it and the rubber of the grip was peeling off already, the button is in an extremely awkward spot and then I put it on my T3 and it didnt 'even work...

Damn I feel very bad now, the one I got did not have any rubber on it all just molded textured plastic, and good placement of shutter button .... wonder if they changed what they were shipping :oops: I am extremly sorry and will stop recomending as a decent 3rd party grip.




  
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smaeda
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Feb 08, 2013 09:33 |  #540

trewyn15 wrote in post #15585711 (external link)
As for not liking the camera for low lights, I think some more learning may need to be done with the camera... most people that bought it buy it because they're starting off, if this is you, learn more and try more before you blame the body or lens... also if you don't have the greatest glass, that could very easily be another issue.

Sorry, I'm not really trying to blame the equipment here. I apologize if it seems I'm coming off negatively. Just trying to understand why I'm getting the soft images, and not so great AF. Could you give me suggestions on what I'm missing? I'm always eager to learn new things. I've been using the 100mm f2. The exif data is in my flickr. Shots taken in manual mode.


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Sony A7iii, Irix 15mm f2.4, Tamron 28-75mm f2.8, 85mm f1.4, Sony GM 70-200mm f2.8, Tamron 70-180mm f2.8

  
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who has the T3 / 1100D ?
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