I've gotta invest in another remote flash system and master how to use it in almost nil lighting. It's annoying. I shot a bunch of metal bands in a venue that's quite capable of giving great lighting, but chose not to. Even though I have an extremely capable low light camera (a 1D Mark III) and extremely fast lenses (see my sig) I still had to resort to flashing. It was in a venue where they would allow me to attach up flashes if I wanted to.
I've got an ST-E2, but that runs via infrared, which doesn't do very well in a low-light place where the path from me to the flash unit might get blocked. I originally didn't get a Pocket Wizard because they didn't support ETTL at the time. I hear the new ones do. What I wonder about is how that works in extremely low light conditions. How can the camera meter for it? If it metered for the real lighting then when you took the picture with the flash going off, wouldn't it overexpose? Or does it meter with a test flash and so that the exposure is right when the shot is taken? How about bursting? Can it keep up with the 10 fps that my 1D 3 can do? I use that burst for drummer shots (and 4 fps for other performers).
I would also like to set up more than one flash and be able to choose between the two. Possible? Can I flash with both? Any insight is appreciated, as well as a recommendation to a Pocket Wizard primer, whether it be a site or a book.
Oh, and btw, I own a 430 EX flash and diffuser.


