Efficiency in learning and using studio strobes - what's your advice?

Hello!

I will be buying lighting equipment soon and then begin to practice creating individual and group portraits with it. In doing so, I would like to avoid wasted time and effort. For those of you who have already walked down the path of the studio photographer, can you give your thoughts about what is a good practice when learning the science of lighting? The most obvious, which applies to any study, is to learn on a proper gradient. Start with one light and see the cause and effect as changes in distances are made. Then change positions relative to the subject. And so on. But aside from this, what do you believe will help students learn efficiently? Accurate modelling lights?

In the same vein, what will hinder my learning that I should avoid? Chimping? Constant use of the flash meter? I see many articles discussing how ETTL, and speedlites in general, make learning about artificial lighting confusing. That's one reason I sold my 580EX II and started looking at strobes with modelling lights.

So what are your thoughts?

I see people over thinking it till their head is so twisted they can think straight. For me it simply comes down to placement, softness,and brightness.

Where do you want the light to come from/how do you want the shadows to fall?
How bright do you want the light compared to the ambient?
How soft of light do you want?

That is about it for me. I dont care about formulas and lighting equations. While the formulas and equations are being used in practice (You cant move a light without the inverse square law effecting the move) they are not something I actively think about on a shoot.

Its simply... I want the light from the left, on the models back, 1/2 stop over ambient. as soft as I can get it... the rest is up to me and the model.

TTL is not any harder per se. It is just different. TTL is obviously run by the cameras meter. Which does not know, nor care, what you are shooting. So a 2 degree change in framing can have a 2 stop difference. To a human they are the same picture so they should have the same exposure. But to the camera there is 3.476% less areas above 18% gray, and therefore 3.476% more area below 18% gray. So therefore there needs to be a different exposure to ballence it out. THis is what throws people off so fast on TTL.

I think you are on the right track with starting simple ie 1 light and work from there. Working in a fairly dark room with strobes with modeling lights will help with learning to feather your light. A good light meter will also really help in getting correct exposures and ratios and consistent results. I would also recommend if you are shooting in a studio type location to shoot tethered it will give you a much better view of what your getting than the little screen on the back.

If you're going to be learning about shooting portraits, one thing I found extremely valuable was purchasing a mannequin bust and a few different colored wigs for it. My regular test subjects quickly became impatient with my tests and having the mannequin sit there tirelessly for hours while I experimented was extremely helpful. The one I have also pretty accurately shows the catch lights in her eyes and that helped with comparisons to other portraits I found online. I've never felt the need to shoot tethered, although I'm sure it would help. The light meter is also highly recommended.

Mark1 wrote in post #12345018
TTL is not any harder per se. It is just different. TTL is obviously run by the cameras meter. Which does not know, nor care, what you are shooting. So a 2 degree change in framing can have a 2 stop difference. To a human they are the same picture so they should have the same exposure. But to the camera there is 3.476% less areas above 18% gray, and therefore 3.476% more area below 18% gray. So therefore there needs to be a different exposure to ballence it out. THis is what throws people off so fast on TTL.

Thanks Mark, I understand the shortcomings of TTL metering and agree with you. My remark about it was about the aspect of learning the physics of light. Using my 580EX in manual mode and doing systematic testing gave me a much better understanding of light in 10 minutes than did my taking a months worth of pictures with ETTL mode.

Really lighting is about the obvious. As Mark said, bigger and closer is softer. Every light throws a shadow, so be aware of where the shadows are falling from the lights you add. Using one light is a good way to learn, but perhaps a poor way to get to the part of your question about moving into individual and group portraits as fast as possible. Do a good search for "broad lighting", "short lighting" and then simply look at as many shots as possible in lighting threads. In each look for the obvious light source, then check to see if any lights were providing fill. Is there a third light? If so is it lighting the background, or is it turned around to rim light the hair of the subject? Just viewing these images with a critical eye will tell you a lot of what you need to know.

I would walk through the strobist 102 assignments / shots.. regardless of if you're using studio lights or not.. the principles are sound, and the concepts are explained in very relatable terms.

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …ing-102-introduction.html

Also search around for lighting diagram and recreate some examples that you find.

As with anything practice and hands-on experience is what will improve your skills the most.

BrandonSi wrote in post #12347576
Also search around for lighting diagram and recreate some examples that you find.

Just on that note check out http://strobox.com/pho​tos

sdipirro wrote in post #12346495
If you're going to be learning about shooting portraits, one thing I found extremely valuable was purchasing a mannequin bust and a few different colored wigs for it. My regular test subjects quickly became impatient with my tests and having the mannequin sit there tirelessly for hours while I experimented was extremely helpful. The one I have also pretty accurately shows the catch lights in her eyes and that helped with comparisons to other portraits I found online. I've never felt the need to shoot tethered, although I'm sure it would help. The light meter is also highly recommended.

Where did you get your mannequin bust from? Is it just the head or waist up? I've been pondering getting one for a while, and now I see that it really is a good idea!

BrickR wrote in post #12347923
Where did you get your mannequin bust from? Is it just the head or waist up? I've been pondering getting one for a while, and now I see that it really is a good idea!

This eBay seller seems to have a lot of good ones:
dressformmall

Mannequin and Whibal are high on my "To buy" list.

I learn a lot about lighting by watching what happens in nature. Observing cause and effect leads to thoughts as to how it can be replicated in the studio.

BrandonSi wrote in post #12347576
I would walk through the strobist 102 assignments / shots.. regardless of if you're using studio lights or not.. the principles are sound, and the concepts are explained in very relatable terms.

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …ing-102-introduction.html

Also search around for lighting diagram and recreate some examples that you find.

As with anything practice and hands-on experience is what will improve your skills the most.

That's a great resource Brandon. Even if someone already has all the theory of lighting learned, there is always room for practicing. That's how results are gotten.

You also mentioned that it might be of value to use existing lighting diagrams and duplicate the resultant images that the photographers made. I think this may not be the best method to learn. Let's suppose I find a lighting diagram that has every element described - positions, angles, distances, modifiers and even meter readings. In order to recreate the image, I would need to use equipment of the same type and power, or near identical to what was used in the diagram. Even if by some chance I did, what value this exercise be to me, the student? I might be able to duplicate that single result, but what would I do when I needed to make any adjustment to the scene? Instead of an approach like this, I think a far more practical one would be to learn the fundamentals of light. If that means that I have to dig up a textbook on optics, so be it. Now, where's my pinhole camera...

Damian75 wrote in post #12346455
I think you are on the right track with starting simple ie 1 light and work from there. Working in a fairly dark room with strobes with modeling lights will help with learning to feather your light. A good light meter will also really help in getting correct exposures and ratios and consistent results. I would also recommend if you are shooting in a studio type location to shoot tethered it will give you a much better view of what your getting than the little screen on the back.

^^^
...if you want to learn 'lighting' and not simply learn 'to illuminate'. 'Lighting' sets moods, flatters subjects, provides drama in photographs. 'Illumination' simply puts photons onto the subject.

• Start with 1 light and work from there.
  
• Work in a fairly dark room with strobe with modeling light or even a simple desk lamp will help with learning to position your light(s) and learn how various placements will flatter a subject or make them NOT look best, without ever firing a shot!
  
• A good light meter will also really help in quickly getting correct exposures and ratios and consistent results.
  
• Start with simple reflectors, don't bother with light modifiers until you have mastered simple lighting
  

-Learn how each modifier you will have and different positions of light affect how your subject looks.

-You have to set up 1 light at a time, don´t try to set them all in one blow because that´s not the best route.

- if you want to experiment test it before the photoshoot (many do it in the photoshoot and that is a recipe for disaster)

-As Wilt said learn which light is more flattering for different kinds of faces or bodies.

-Learning how to pose, get expressions from their subjects and how to properly post process skin is vital to anyone shooting portraits

-Linked to the one above learn how to rapport with your subjects and how to interact with them.

- lighting must be set before your subject arrives (and if you are going to change it do it when the model/person is changing clothes and/or in make up rather than boring them to death).

-lightmeter is actually faster than chimping! (stop watches don´t tell lies)

--Once you have grasped the basics, start thinking conceptually rather than mechanically: most of the lighting teaching sites feed you on mechanical "don´t use your brain" recipes, lighting as everything in a good photography is linked with the concept (which unifies everything: focal lenght, composition, angle, expressions, posing, clothing, background, lighting position, modifier to be used, etc.) there are TONS of brilliantly lit photos that are dull and boring, few are brilliantly lit and have the rest of the elements at the same high level to make it a memorable photo.


Finally and more importantly: Have fun! photography is work but it is a heck of a lot of fun with work !

Wilt wrote in post #12348854
You 'light' single portraiture, you 'illuminate' groups.

Wilt, I was following you up until this statement. Can you please explain further? I would think that the goal in group shots, as in single portraiture, is to simulate 3D in the photo. Wouldn't this require the application of the same concepts?