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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 15 May 2011 (Sunday) 15:35
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18% grey paint

 
mininut
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May 15, 2011 15:35 |  #1

Thought this might help someone, I found that "New England" company make an "Atlantic seal" paint that matches my 18% grey card almost exactly. Available at B&Q in the UK.

http://www.diy.com/diy​/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action​=detail&fh_secondid=11​357534&fh_view_size=12​&fh_eds=%3f&fh_maxdisp​laynrvalues_featuresBr​and=-1&fh_location=%2f%2fca​talog01%2fen_GB%2fcate​gories%3C{9372013}%2fc​ategories%3C{9372030}%​2fcategories%3C{937212​0}%2f_colourShadeMIF%3​E{all}%2fspecification​sProductType%3demulsio​ns%2ffeaturesBrand%3dN​ew+England%2f_colour_d​erive%3E{grey}&fh_refv​iew=lister&isSearch=fa​lse (external link)

I've painted my whole studio in this and it looks great :D

M.


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Csae
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May 15, 2011 21:40 |  #2

Ahaha, i'd rather black.... or white.

But i can see that being neat, shoot a bit wider to get some wall in the shot and you got a WB.

Atm, my walls are white, but i cut out sheets of my black paper BG and unroll them over if i'm shooting something dark :)


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TMR ­ Design
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May 15, 2011 21:54 as a reply to  @ Csae's post |  #3

Just because the paint may be 18% gray, which is a reflectivity value, does not mean its a neutral. It's highly unlikely that there are equal amounts of red, green and blue so it can't be used for accurate white balance.

For all intents and purposes, there is no practical reason to worry about using 18% gray paint in the studio. If the studio space is small then white works well in terms of keeping the room from feeling small, but it also gives you more return and reflection from the walls. Black gives you no return but makes the room feel very small and dungeon-like.

Using gray in a small space makes a lot of sense because it doesn't make the room feel too small while controlling some of the unwanted return and reflection to the subject area.

I've also done some extensive testing and determined that keeping the ceiling white makes sense. You really don't get any return from the ceiling unless you're pointing your lights at the ceiling and for those times that you do want to create a large, soft hair light or want to bounce off the ceiling, it's there when you need it.

When choosing gray paint for a studio, the most important thing is not the shade of gray, but making sure that there is no blue to cause a color cast. Almost all gray contains blue unless you create a custom color or specify that there shouldn't be any blue.


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mininut
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May 16, 2011 05:19 |  #4

Its dry today so I placed my grey card against the wall and it just disappeared into the background! I did a shoot last week and had huge problems controlling light since I was using a new set of Dlite 4s and the whole space was white (3x5meters), I've left the ceiling white only.

I'll be doing a little test tonight once I've tidied up, see how it goes, hopefully no colour cast.

M.


5DIII | 5DII | 1Ds Mk II | Σ 70-200 f/2.8 EX DG | Σ 85 1.4 | Σ50 1.4 | Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 Di | Tamron 17-35 Di Lots of lights!
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spacetime
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May 16, 2011 10:42 |  #5

Csae wrote in post #12416532 (external link)
...

But i can see that being neat, shoot a bit wider to get some wall in the shot and you got a WB.
...

Are you going to be able to maintain an accurate WB if light falling on the bg is a few stops different from the lighting on the model?




  
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TMR ­ Design
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May 16, 2011 10:43 as a reply to  @ spacetime's post |  #6

Unless the wall is perfectly neutral it's not a good idea to use it as a white balance reference. As mentioned above, 18% is a measure of reflectivity and not neutrality.


Robert
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SkipD
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May 16, 2011 11:34 |  #7

TMR Design wrote in post #12419246 (external link)
Unless the wall is perfectly neutral it's not a good idea to use it as a white balance reference. As mentioned above, 18% is a measure of reflectivity and not neutrality.

In addition to the above, the walls may not be receiving the same light as the subject. There's light bouncing off colored objects in the room (including the subject) that is contributing to the illumination of the walls

Any white balance reference should not only be guaranteed neutral but it should be placed in precisely the same light as that illuminating the subject.


Skip Douglas
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Csae
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May 16, 2011 12:03 |  #8

You guys took me seriously...


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TMR ­ Design
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May 16, 2011 12:12 as a reply to  @ Csae's post |  #9

Oops. Sorry Case.


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dmward
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May 16, 2011 15:39 |  #10

When I was a young photog starting out we had a cyclorama that was 20 feet on a side and went through a lot of paint keeping it white.

Since almost everything shot on it was with view cameras and Ektachrome we did one test to get a beginning filter pack and then always bought the same paint from the same supplier.

Based on that, if I were going to paint a studio today with digital, I'd get a sample of the paint and do a patch, then do a color test against a MacBeth chart (PassPort). I did that for a couple of art conservators that wanted neutral areas in their studio. Worked well.


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mininut
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May 24, 2011 06:22 |  #11

The grey looks like it works a treat, converted to jpg nothing else...

IMAGE: http://www.thefullframe.co.uk/images/boo.jpg

colour balance seems spot on when checking in lightroom.

M.

5DIII | 5DII | 1Ds Mk II | Σ 70-200 f/2.8 EX DG | Σ 85 1.4 | Σ50 1.4 | Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 Di | Tamron 17-35 Di Lots of lights!
www.thefullframe.co.uk (external link) | TheFullFrame on Facebook | (external link)500px (external link)

  
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18% grey paint
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