My colleague has corrected me. The above photo was taken with the lights pointed away at a 45 degree angle pointing into the diffuser umbrellas. The light box as set at half.
May 17, 2011 12:28 | #16 My colleague has corrected me. The above photo was taken with the lights pointed away at a 45 degree angle pointing into the diffuser umbrellas. The light box as set at half.
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kmtyb Senior Member 261 posts Joined Mar 2010 More info | Lighting looks flat to me. I'm 90% sure you need better lighting. With this type of a shot maybe consistent lighting might be better.
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which 50mm lens are you using?
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Gizmo1137 Senior Member 960 posts Likes: 9 Joined Feb 2009 Location: Phoenix, AZ More info | This kind of work is my bread & butter and would echo what some have suggested, ie. a macro lens. If you have adequate working distance a 100mm macro is the preferable choice but a 60mm would do well. You also need a smaller f-stop, f11 or f16 would be optimal, at a minimum f8. To achieve this you will need good lighting, I would use electronic flash and there are many options out there. Best, Bruce
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joedlh Cream of the Crop 5,515 posts Gallery: 52 photos Likes: 688 Joined Dec 2007 Location: Long Island, NY, N. America, Sol III, Orion Spur, Milky Way, Local Group, Virgo Cluster, Laniakea. More info | May 17, 2011 16:08 | #20 Fidlina wrote in post #12426725 The distortion happens most noticeably in the ventral view. The beak does not look flush with the color bar. Did you consider raising the ruler/color bar to the level of the beak? That would reduce some perceptual distortion if the size of the beak is critical. Joe
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avan Senior Member 512 posts Likes: 23 Joined Dec 2006 Location: Montreal,quebec More info | May 17, 2011 18:02 | #21 joedlh wrote in post #12428369 Did you consider raising the ruler/color bar to the level of the beak? That would reduce some perceptual distortion if the size of the beak is critical. For this kind of work you dont want that it look like OK, this is scientific recording. 1DMK4, T6s, 100-400mmL IS II, 16-35mm f4, 100mm macro
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kmtyb Senior Member 261 posts Joined Mar 2010 More info | May 17, 2011 18:16 | #22 Gizmo1137 wrote in post #12427837 This kind of work is my bread & butter and would echo what some have suggested, ie. a macro lens. If you have adequate working distance a 100mm macro is the preferable choice but a 60mm would do well. You also need a smaller f-stop, f11 or f16 would be optimal, at a minimum f8. To achieve this you will need good lighting, I would use electronic flash and there are many options out there. Here we go! +1
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l7s4 Member 218 posts Likes: 15 Joined Jun 2008 More info | May 20, 2011 22:01 | #23 Fidlina...looking at the exif data:
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xarqi Cream of the Crop 10,435 posts Likes: 2 Joined Oct 2005 Location: Aotearoa/New Zealand More info | May 20, 2011 23:12 | #24 l7s4 wrote in post #12450119 Macro lenses are noted for having an extremely flat field...ie the resolution does not diminish as you move from the center to the edges. Id non est, I'm afraid. Flat field relates to corrections for geometric distortion, not to resolution.
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