Norkusa wrote in post #12437740
Some of my favorite photos of yours look like they were taken back stage or not even during a concert at all. How do you get such great access to these bands? Are they friends of yours?
Well, I blame Finland and the relaxed culture here regarding our top musicians. Ville Valo (of HIM) can be regularly seen at the Tavastia club/bar in Helsinki (or so I've heard), except when there's an international metal event there, since the fan culture of the international fans is such that he is bothered constantly (or so I've heard).
Also, the "biggest" bands who aren't of international fame (for example, because of lyrics being in Finnish) are quite small on the international scale.
Thirdly, some of the bands seem to appreciate my work and want me to be there to take photos of them.
After the publication of my first book of the Finnish band PMMP (who are basically as big as a band gets without singing in English), things have gotten easier as I have something I can show/give to people, and I have proof that I can cope with the downsides of touring.
I'm sure almost anybody with a half decent portfolio can get to tour with a band. As long as don't expect that band to be 'big'. Bands playing marginal music can be great since they can have heaps of talent and passion - it's the genre they play that keeps them unknown as far as the general public is concerned.
Norkusa wrote in post #12437740
And how do you get that awesome contrast in your photos? I've been messing around with silverfx lately trying to achieve a similar look but they don't look nearly as good as yours.
Nowadays 99% of the digital photos I do go through Lightroom 3 post processing only (except when I prepare them for printing, but that's just technicalities such as converting to a different profile etc). I guess the
secret is the usage of the adjustment brush.
The thing is, that when you add massive contrast to an image, the dark parts may go pitch-black and the light parts may burn out. So what you do is use adjustment brush - typically a large-ish size with a lot of feather, and add exposure to the dark areas and reduce exposure from the light areas. Sometimes you may want things to be pitch-black (at least if you're an Anton Corbijn fan), but typically you want most of the picture area to be on the steepest part of the tone curve, not in the extremes (as a side note, if you're using LR, you'll have to imagine the "sum tone curve", as brightness and contrast adjustments are essentially tone curve adjustments that you don't see).
To put this in another way, try to adjust the contrast and lightness/exposure by looking at your main subject only (maybe his/her face only) and ignoring the rest of the image. As you adjust contrast and lightness/exposure, the rest of the image may go all weird but the part you're concentrating on looks good. So you essentially leave the global adjustments as they are and try to get the "weird parts" under control with the adjustment brush. It's surprising how sloppy you can be when using the adjustment brush as long as it is big enough and there's enough feather. Just go wild with it and try things. Also, if you have the opportunity (and haven't done so yet), try to get to see somebody experienced doing "real" burning-and-dodging while they're creating a print of a film image in the traditional way in a darkroom.
I may be completely off by giving this long-winded explanation about the wonders of the adjustment brush, but that's what I'd imagine to be the missing link...
It's something that I've learned by doing, so it's a bit hard to write exactly what I do. It also depends on the picture at hand.