Samyang 35mm F1.4 UMC

Hardcore wrote in post #14928040
No, it was shot through the window of an aircraft. I did drop the luminance on the blue channels to intensify the sky a bit. Added clarity and saturation. Set white and black point to combat the lack of contrast by shooting through a window... a scratched one at that!

Cool, gotcha!

any recommendations of bruxies in socal?

c2thew wrote in post #14934005
any recommendations of bruxies in socal?

pretty good; get the pastrami

ride5000 wrote in post #14935984

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/ken-gilbert/7895340320/
_MG_3831-17 by k.a. gilbert, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …s/ken-gilbert/7901594422/
_MG_4020-46 by k.a. gilbert, on Flickr

this will be a newb question but how do you get such good sun flares?
What setting do you put it at? higher iso? wider aperature?

I love this lens, I miss this lens, I miss this thread

masberg24 wrote in post #14936346
this will be a newb question but how do you get such good sun flares?
What setting do you put it at? higher iso? wider aperature?

no newb question!

well one of the first things about flares is that they're highly lens dependent. some lenses have a lot of flare, others have a little. some lenses have "pleasing" flare that looks "good" and others have very distracting flare. more isn't always worse, less isn't always better, etc. i've found this 35mm has very little flare, but what it does have is pleasing. perhaps it's the length of the lens (which is definitely on the long side for a 35mm)? "why" isn't really important in the end.

one of the difficult things is getting the exposure right. in this shot, like many facing into the sun, i switched to full manual exposure. i metered on the shadow side of my wife's face. then i was free to compose the frame without worrying about what the camera was going to do. if left to its own it probably would have pulled 2-3 stops because the sun is so bright, leaving the face vastly underexposed.

a wide aperture helps to soften the highlights and gradients so that they don't appear so pixelated and/or clipped. a small aperture will give you some nice star points to the light source, but it will also make the transitions harder.

of course, the 5dc sensor is really (still) quite a remarkable piece of technology.

along with that i always shoot in raw which can give you 1-2 stops extra dynamic range vs. jpg.

so: lens selection, exposure control, wide aperture, sensor performance, raw format.

Mast3rChi3f wrote in post #14937706

Wow, nice shots and processing.

ride5000 wrote in post #14941102
no newb question!

well one of the first things about flares is that they're highly lens dependent. some lenses have a lot of flare, others have a little. some lenses have "pleasing" flare that looks "good" and others have very distracting flare. more isn't always worse, less isn't always better, etc. i've found this 35mm has very little flare, but what it does have is pleasing. perhaps it's the length of the lens (which is definitely on the long side for a 35mm)? "why" isn't really important in the end.

one of the difficult things is getting the exposure right. in this shot, like many facing into the sun, i switched to full manual exposure. i metered on the shadow side of my wife's face. then i was free to compose the frame without worrying about what the camera was going to do. if left to its own it probably would have pulled 2-3 stops because the sun is so bright, leaving the face vastly underexposed.

a wide aperture helps to soften the highlights and gradients so that they don't appear so pixelated and/or clipped. a small aperture will give you some nice star points to the light source, but it will also make the transitions harder.

of course, the 5dc sensor is really (still) quite a remarkable piece of technology.

along with that i always shoot in raw which can give you 1-2 stops extra dynamic range vs. jpg.

so: lens selection, exposure control, wide aperture, sensor performance, raw format.

Awesome! Thanks so much

Rok 35