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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Accessories 
Thread started 19 May 2011 (Thursday) 15:12
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GND Buyers FAQ:

 
Dlee13
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Jan 28, 2015 01:28 |  #391

Charlie wrote in post #17403653 (external link)
btw, I am a proponent of square ND's for the same reason, I can transfer them to any of my lenses.

I was considering getting step down rings for my other lenses but I also want to be able to stack, which is why I'm making the switch. I've also read of people getting step up/down rings stuck to their lens.

Charlie wrote in post #17403653 (external link)
I would start slowly with GND's to see if you like them. I made the mistake of getting a few at once..... bad mistake :-P

Haha well I'm very adamant about getting the GND's. I've been shooting without them for a while now and I definitely prefer to get it done in camera rather than relying on my skills in post.

Charlie wrote in post #17403653 (external link)
IMO filters should be bought in this order: 10 stop, 3 stop, 0.9 GND SE. Everything else can be bought down the line. If you light sunsets/sunrise, a reverse GND may be for you. I generally shoot sunrise/sunset simply because there's no better time, and I'de rather have 1 nice shot than 100 mediocre ones. My biggest issue with GND's are the fact that I hardly ever shoot with straight horizons, and post processed blends usually look better. It's a really good idea to learn to process that method because chances are, you'll have to fix GND's using a similar method.... so might as well skip it.

Funny you say that because I'm actually considering getting the Little Stopper first. I like doing exposures between 2-4 mins so I always have to shoot when it is still bright. If I have the 6 stop, I can shoot closer to dusk/dawn which would be better for when I do my cityscapes. I will definitely get the Big Stopper once I sell my circular 10 stop, but I think starting with the Little Stopper, 0.9 and 0.6 soft would suit my shooting style best.

I do know how to blend bracketed shots together, I also find it to be a smoother process in PS CC (when it comes to selecting specific areas). I don't usually shoot flat horizons which is why I'd prefer the soft over the hards. I've also been told from people who shoot a lot of seascapes that the softs still work great.

Charlie wrote in post #17403653 (external link)
that said, I do carry a set of GND's, 0.9 SE, 0.9 HE, 0.9 RGND. I stick with Haida whenever possible, since they produce the best quality. Too bad they dont produce a 0.9 HE/RGND, so I use LEE and Hitech respectively. My hard ND's are Haida, and my square polarizer is by LEE. Haida just happens to cost the least and best quality: http://www.achim-sieger.de …itech-prostop-irnd-haida/ (external link) (I had similar results to that site, bought lee first but wasnt satisfied with the cast, then bought haida...)

Yeah I was looking at the Haida filters before when I first read about them. Their quality is definitely impressive. Surprisingly a blue color cast from the Lee filters wouldn't bother me since I would always prefer a cool look over a warm one, I can also easily adjust it in post either way. I'm thinking of eventually getting the Lee square Polarizer too.


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Canon EOS M5 - Canon EF-M 32mm f/1.4 - Canon EF-M 22mm f/2 - Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM

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Sdiver2489
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Feb 06, 2015 10:48 |  #392

My apology if this has been covered amongst the 27 pages here...but I have a 10 stop ND filter (B+W) and a polarizer.

I've looked at GNDs here and there but have never jumped in. I do enjoy taking landscapes on vacation but the extra clutter of it all holds me back a bit.

What I want to know is is there a significant improvement between using a GND vs. bracketing and blending exposures in photoshop. Once improvement is obviously that waves and such don't stay still but sometimes careful blending can hide this. Are there other improvements I am missing?


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Charlie
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Feb 06, 2015 11:40 |  #393

Sdiver2489 wrote in post #17418424 (external link)
My apology if this has been covered amongst the 27 pages here...but I have a 10 stop ND filter (B+W) and a polarizer.

I've looked at GNDs here and there but have never jumped in. I do enjoy taking landscapes on vacation but the extra clutter of it all holds me back a bit.

What I want to know is is there a significant improvement between using a GND vs. bracketing and blending exposures in photoshop. Once improvement is obviously that waves and such don't stay still but sometimes careful blending can hide this. Are there other improvements I am missing?

bracket then blend is better IMO. It's not as simple however, you'll run into many scenarios where you start needing to clean GND's in post, and many scenarios where it wont work. Blending is quite easy once you get the hang of it.

I cant even use gnd's on my 14, so I blend with that lens:

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7106/13269610395_1ed01689a8_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/mdAd​S8  (external link) Crashing waves (external link) by charlie617 (external link), on Flickr

I guess that's how I picked up blending, when you have no choice  :p

however, I do have a set of GND's and they do make life easier on occasion, but bringing them along, in practice is just too tedious. With one lens, I'm forced to blend, and the other I can use GND's but why bother screwing around with them? Too many scenarios where they arent even usuable.

when lighting is really good, you can forgo GND's because software can recover with minimal loss.

for other beach shots, you cant even use GND's due to obstruction
IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5549/14222430736_5e4941e590_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/nEMF​a3  (external link) Low tide turbulence (external link) by charlie617 (external link), on Flickr

as for your choices of ND's and polarizers, 3 stop, 10, and polarizer are my preference.

3 stop, when you want texture in you water, but not completely smoothen out.

10 stop, when you want super smooth water and/or lots of cloud movement.

polarizer is really optional. Cut out reflections/glare/bett​er looking skies.

another thing you can consider is a sony sensor. There are some occasions, where the sensor improvement can make a difference. Just expose for the sky (near clipping), then selectively pulling/lowering exposure.

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7521/15637284344_f59629b619_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pPPa​QL  (external link) Scootering sunset 1 (external link) by charlie617 (external link), on Flickr

canon would struggle with a shot like that.

Sony A7riii/A9 - FE 12-24/4 - FE 24-240 - SY 24/2.8 - FE 28/2 - FE 35/2.8 - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - EF 135/1.8 Art - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Astro Rok 14/2.8 - Tamron 17-28/2.8 - 28-75/2.8 RXD, 70-200/2.8 VC

  
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GND Buyers FAQ:
FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Accessories 
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