Most lenses are sharpest at their middle apertures, f4, f5.6, f8. One of the reasons that some lenses are more expensive is they are optimized to be sharp at bigger apertures too (f2, f2.8).
But also try not to use really small apertures (f11, f16, f22) on your crop sensor camera, either. The smaller the aperture, the more strongly diffraction will set in, which will cause loss of fine detail and can make the image look less sharp.
Experiment with your lenses and see which apertures and even what distances give the best results. Both your lenses are likely quite capable, you just need to learn to optimize them. We all have to do this with any lenses we use.
If you have any filters on your lenses, remove them and leave them off. High quality, multi-coated filters do little "harm" to images, but cheaper, uncoated ones can make a mess of things.
Get and use the proper lens hoods on your lenses. This can help with focus accuracy, as well as boost contrast and color saturation in your images, which might make them look a little shaper, too.
Most digital images need some sharpening in post processing. It's usually done after sizing the image for it's final use... A low resolution image to post online will need/tolerate a lot less sharpening than a higher resolution file being used to make an 11x14 print, for example.
Watch your shutter speeds. Too slow can induce camera shake, which will show up as an overall blurring of the image and might be mistaken for lack of sharpness/lens problems.
Are both your lenses "IS"? This helps you handhold at lower shutter speeds, but it's still important to use good techniques and work at holding the camera steady. Also, with IS you need to give it a moment to work.... You can see the image "settle down" in the viewfinder, when IS has done it's thing.
Be aware of the limitations of IS... It might help you and the camera be steady enough to use a lower shutter speed, but if your subject is moving it can still be blurred because IS can't help with that. You still need to keep your shutter speeds up to a reasonable level with moving subjects. How fast the shutter needs to be varies, depending upon subject speed and whether they are moving toward/away from you or perpendicular... Also there are techniques called "dragging the shutter" used when panning, so the background blurs. This is a deliberately slower shutter speed, but you will have some spoiled shots doing this, only a percentage will come out well. Probably your percentage will improve with practice.
If on a tripod, you should turn off IS on those lenses, I think. On some lenses with IS, it will sense "lack of movement" and turn itself off. But other lenses (including, I think, your lenses), you have to manually turn IS off locking the camera and lens down on a tripod. Otherwise AF will get into sort of a feedback loop, where it continuously causes movement and tries to correct it.