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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Lenses 
Thread started 23 May 2011 (Monday) 13:44
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Would like to take sharper pictures...

 
gshappell
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May 23, 2011 13:44 |  #1

Hello...I have been really impressed with alot of pictures on here in terms of sharpness, clarity, and detail. I would like to be able to do that but I am on a budget and cant afford the L type lenses. Can anyone recommend some 'entry level' lenses that have some really good sharpness? Currently I have the stock 18-55 and the 55-250. Is there a certain range where these lenses are their sharpest?


Canon 70d, 450d
18-55 IS Kit lens | 55 -250 EFS | Rokinon 85mm
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shedberg
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May 23, 2011 13:47 |  #2

-faster shutter speed
-tripod and remote shutter release


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6D / 7D / 16-35 II / 35 2.0 IS / 60 macro / 85 1.8 / 135 2 / 100-400 / 430EX II

  
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drumsfield
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May 23, 2011 13:47 |  #3

You could try prime lenses which are usually sharper than zooms and much sharper than kit lenses.

My personal recommendations are the 50mm, 28mm, and 85mm canon brand primes. These lenses are fairly sharp and as sharp as any of their Canon L counterparts.


Canon 5D MkIII | Olympus OM-D | Olympus E-P2 | 16-35L MKII | 24-70L MKII | 70-200L MKII | 85L MKII | EF 50mm 1.4 | EF 100mm 2.8 | 100-400mm L MKII | 20mm 1.7
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drumsfield
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May 23, 2011 13:51 |  #4

Is there a certain range where these lenses are their sharpest?

See for yourself
http://www.the-digital-picture.com …omp=0&FLIComp=0​&APIComp=0 (external link)


Canon 5D MkIII | Olympus OM-D | Olympus E-P2 | 16-35L MKII | 24-70L MKII | 70-200L MKII | 85L MKII | EF 50mm 1.4 | EF 100mm 2.8 | 100-400mm L MKII | 20mm 1.7
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amfoto1
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May 23, 2011 14:17 |  #5

Most lenses are sharpest at their middle apertures, f4, f5.6, f8. One of the reasons that some lenses are more expensive is they are optimized to be sharp at bigger apertures too (f2, f2.8).

But also try not to use really small apertures (f11, f16, f22) on your crop sensor camera, either. The smaller the aperture, the more strongly diffraction will set in, which will cause loss of fine detail and can make the image look less sharp.

Experiment with your lenses and see which apertures and even what distances give the best results. Both your lenses are likely quite capable, you just need to learn to optimize them. We all have to do this with any lenses we use.

If you have any filters on your lenses, remove them and leave them off. High quality, multi-coated filters do little "harm" to images, but cheaper, uncoated ones can make a mess of things.

Get and use the proper lens hoods on your lenses. This can help with focus accuracy, as well as boost contrast and color saturation in your images, which might make them look a little shaper, too.

Most digital images need some sharpening in post processing. It's usually done after sizing the image for it's final use... A low resolution image to post online will need/tolerate a lot less sharpening than a higher resolution file being used to make an 11x14 print, for example.

Watch your shutter speeds. Too slow can induce camera shake, which will show up as an overall blurring of the image and might be mistaken for lack of sharpness/lens problems.

Are both your lenses "IS"? This helps you handhold at lower shutter speeds, but it's still important to use good techniques and work at holding the camera steady. Also, with IS you need to give it a moment to work.... You can see the image "settle down" in the viewfinder, when IS has done it's thing.

Be aware of the limitations of IS... It might help you and the camera be steady enough to use a lower shutter speed, but if your subject is moving it can still be blurred because IS can't help with that. You still need to keep your shutter speeds up to a reasonable level with moving subjects. How fast the shutter needs to be varies, depending upon subject speed and whether they are moving toward/away from you or perpendicular... Also there are techniques called "dragging the shutter" used when panning, so the background blurs. This is a deliberately slower shutter speed, but you will have some spoiled shots doing this, only a percentage will come out well. Probably your percentage will improve with practice.

If on a tripod, you should turn off IS on those lenses, I think. On some lenses with IS, it will sense "lack of movement" and turn itself off. But other lenses (including, I think, your lenses), you have to manually turn IS off locking the camera and lens down on a tripod. Otherwise AF will get into sort of a feedback loop, where it continuously causes movement and tries to correct it.


Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII, 7D, M5 & others. 10-22mm, Meike 12/2.8,Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, EF-M 22/2, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Sigma 56/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS, 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link)

  
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Daskid
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May 23, 2011 14:20 |  #6

^^ very well said.

I usually trust prime lenses to be the shapes in my lineup.


5DII Gripped / 6D / Σ 15 ƒ2.8 FishEye / EF 24-70 ƒ2.8 II L / EF 24-105 ƒ4 L IS / EF 70-200 ƒ2.8 II L IS / eternalclicksphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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GoneTomorrow
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May 23, 2011 14:23 |  #7

Besides what has already been said, I'll add good lighting to the mix. Some of the sharpest shots I've ever seen were done with speedlites, strobes, etc.


Canon 5D Mk II (35/1.4L | 24-70/2.8L | 135/2L | Euro Nifty | 430EX II | Gitzo G1125 + 494RC2) flickr (external link)

I bought a new camera. It's very advanced - you don't even need it. ~Steven Wright

  
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ni$mo350
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May 23, 2011 14:26 |  #8

+1 on primes, pick up a cheap 50 f/1.8 and go to town..


-Chris-Website (external link)|| (external link)Facebook (external link)|| My Flickr (external link)|| Follow me!!! 500px (external link) || (external link) 5D mkii || 35L || 70-200 f/2.8L IS MKII || My bank account hates you all :cry:

  
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TaDa
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May 23, 2011 14:26 |  #9

I would just like to make one comment. My wife has the 18-55 IS and 55-250 IS lenses for her camera and I am extremely impressed with the level of image quality that they can help produce. These lenses are sharp. Whether they relay great color rendition and whatnot is another subject, but as far as just how sharp an image is, this is not one of the weak points of these lenses.

If your shots are coming out blurry, please make sure that you have the proper technique down to get proper shutter speed for your shots.


Name is Peter and here is my gear:
Canon 5D II, Canon 7D, Canon 40D
Glass - Zeiss 21 f/2.8 ZE, Canon 35 f/1.4L, Canon 40 f/2.8 STM, Canon 24-70 f/2.8
L, Canon 85 f/1.2L II, Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, Canon 500 f/4L IS
Speedlite 580ex II, 430ex - Gitzo GT-3541XLS w/ Arca B1

  
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tkbslc
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May 23, 2011 14:28 |  #10

I would also suggest shooting RAW and processing with the DPP program that came with your camera. RAW pictures are sharper to begin with and allow fine tuning of sharpness, among other things.


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GeoffSobering
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May 23, 2011 14:36 as a reply to  @ GoneTomorrow's post |  #11

It also helps to understand how to apply sharpening in your post-processing work-flow.
IMHO "Real World Image Sharpening..." is the best book on the topic.
Here are some-online excerpts:

For typical on-screen viewing you can do a lot worse than an unsharp-mask (or "Smart Sharpening") filter with a radius of 0.6 pixel and a strength of about 100 (Photoshop parameters). It's critical to apply that filter after the final re-size down to screen dimensions.

Re: Lenses:
The Canon 18-55mm IS kit lens and the 55-250mm are both pretty sharp optics, esp. if you follow the advice above and shoot around f/8. I use the 18-55mm IS quite a bit and I've gotten some magazine-covers from photos I took with it.

Cheers,

Geoff S.

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silvrr
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May 23, 2011 14:38 |  #12

GoneTomorrow wrote in post #12464418 (external link)
Besides what has already been said, I'll add good lighting to the mix. Some of the sharpest shots I've ever seen were done with speedlites, strobes, etc.

I think this is a very overlooked part of the IQ equation. You can shoot with the best lens in the world but without proper lighting your not going to get a 'sharp' looking shot. You don't necessarly need strobes to achive this but just good quality light will make a huge differnece in the sharpness of your shots.

OP: can you post some shots that you think are not sharp enough with exif?


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GoneTomorrow
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May 23, 2011 14:42 |  #13

silvrr wrote in post #12464517 (external link)
I think this is a very overlooked part of the IQ equation. You can shoot with the best lens in the world but without proper lighting your not going to get a 'sharp' looking shot. You don't necessarly need strobes to achive this but just good quality light will make a huge differnece in the sharpness of your shots.

OP: can you post some shots that you think are not sharp enough?

True enough. Bounce flash with a single speedlite does the trick nicely.


Canon 5D Mk II (35/1.4L | 24-70/2.8L | 135/2L | Euro Nifty | 430EX II | Gitzo G1125 + 494RC2) flickr (external link)

I bought a new camera. It's very advanced - you don't even need it. ~Steven Wright

  
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LeeRatters
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May 23, 2011 14:48 |  #14

some good advice in here so far.

back in my 450D days i found the 18-55IS fairly sharp. again though, depends what you're shooting, how close, lighting conditions etc but it can be a solid performer for what it is.


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riotshield
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May 23, 2011 15:03 as a reply to  @ LeeRatters's post |  #15

If you look at the samples page for the kit lens, you can see from the better pictures that sharpness is more about the shooting/lighting technique and post-processing:

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=445986

Comparing lens resolution alone, the kit lens is about as good as many more expensive lenses.




  
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