Interior house remodel shots?

I have a 7d with a sigma 10-22 and getting good results but the distortion and trying to keep the picture strait is almost impossible. So what I was thinking is that I could get a 5DII and use my 24-105 at 24. Or I could get a TSE 17 to help me out with the lines. I plan to get both but I need to buy one first. What do you guys think. I'm Lea if towards getting the TSE 17 first and see if the 5DIII comes out and I could get that but what do you think?

The distortion is from your distance from subject, not the lens. The lens just allows you to be closer. 10mm on a crop is the same as 16 on ff. Put your 10-22 at 15, it will be the same as 24 on a FF.

Try setting your lens to 22 and doing a 2 shot pano. That works great with the TS-E24 on FF doing a 2 or 3 shot pano using the shift function.

windpig wrote in post #12501043
The distortion is from your distance from subject, not the lens. The lens just allows you to be closer. 10mm on a crop is the same as 16 on ff. Put your 10-22 at 15, it will be the same as 24 on a FF.

Try setting your lens to 22 and doing a 2 shot pano. That works great with the TS-E24 on FF.

Will this help with keeping the lines strait?

You should probably stick w/ the prime. Almost all zoom lenses experience barrel distortions at the wide end and pincushion at the telephoto end. For more "popular" lenses, many software will provide lens-correction profiles to help with straightening and vignetting.

I'm sure there are a lot of photos on POTN that do interior shots, but member "mikekelley" comes to mind. I've seen some fantastic architectural shots from him. You might want to try PM'ing him to see what gear he recommends.

I posted this earlier on another thread. It compares 24mm on the 24-105 to the TS-E24II on a 5DII:
https://photography-on-the.net …p?p=12500498&po​stcount=23

Just pano stitch the shots together after you run them all through a Lightroom or other software profile to get rid of distortion.

here's a very quicky 7-stitch pano (vertical) way back in the day, Canon 40D and I think the Tamron 17-50mm at 17mm. I barely had any idea what I was doing, so I'm sure I could pull off better now.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/jl_smith/289546​1000/

Fricks wrote in post #12501054
Will this help with keeping the lines strait?

All you need to keep "the lines straight" is to keep the camera back vertical. It's when you tilt the camera up or down away from horizontal that makes the verticals converge, even with a "perfect, distortion -free" lens. I use a hot-shoe bubble level if my tripod head doesn't have a level in it. The 7D has a level built into the VF - use that!

AJSJones wrote in post #12501881
All you need to keep "the lines straight" is to keep the camera back vertical. It's when you tilt the camera up or down away from horizontal that makes the verticals converge, even with a "perfect, distortion -free" lens. I use a hot-shoe bubble level if my tripod head doesn't have a level in it. The 7D has a level built into the VF - use that!

ok cool thanks

I'm using CS5 and there's a nice filter for lens correction which I find pretty useful for such things. It's not perfect an no substitute for doing your best up front to get the lines right, but can drastically improve things after the fact.

AJSJones wrote in post #12501881
All you need to keep "the lines straight" is to keep the camera back vertical. It's when you tilt the camera up or down away from horizontal that makes the verticals converge, even with a "perfect, distortion -free" lens. I use a hot-shoe bubble level if my tripod head doesn't have a level in it. The 7D has a level built into the VF - use that!

X2.

Personally I'd never spend $2300 on a lens when it takes me about 30 seconds to fix in PS. Unless I was continually shooting $1500 jobs.......I'm talking weekly.