Pushing sync on 5D classic

I'm coming from an original 1D, so I'm used to syncing with my PW's at virtually whatever damn speed I want. Kinda scared about the 1/200 sync speed. How far can you push it with a Mini TT1 on top?

gosundevils wrote in post #12522997
I'm coming from an original 1D, so I'm used to syncing with my PW's at virtually whatever damn speed I want. Kinda scared about the 1/200 sync speed. How far can you push it with a Mini TT1 on top?

I no longer have my 5Dc, but with the TT1 on the 5D2, I get a clean 1/250" and ~10% bottom black curtain at 1/320". Even better on the 1D3.

Plus, when you cross over from ControlTL HyperSync into HSS, the TT1 also gives you more light power than standard HSS. (If you had 580EX-II in your profile, I'd add a warning about the flash tube issue, but since you have 550EX [which I also use], you'll be OK)

What type of shooting are you using fast sync speeds for? Overpowering the sun at wide aperture?

You're lucky if you can get 1/200th (at least with CyberSyncs) on a 5Dc. The true safe sync speed of the 5Dc is really 1/160th. I've heard others say that fresh batteries will help your percentages if you use 1/200th, but I also think there were some saying that it made no difference. YMMV.

clarence wrote in post #12523104
I no longer have my 5Dc, but with the TT1 on the 5D2, I get a clean 1/250" and ~10% bottom black curtain at 1/320". Even better on the 1D3.

Plus, when you cross over from ControlTL HyperSync into HSS, the TT1 also gives you more light power than standard HSS. (If you had 580EX-II in your profile, I'd add a warning about the flash tube issue, but since you have 550EX [which I also use], you'll be OK)

What type of shooting are you using fast sync speeds for? Overpowering the sun at wide aperture?

Reducing ambient, yeah. Also to keep my flash powers under full so I can get a nice 1/1000 duration out of them and freeze motion for the few times I still shoot skateboarding. Definitely used it a lot with the 1D when shooting stuff like this:

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With 5d not much. I can only push to 1/320 using mini/flex. On 1dmk2 I can easily do 1/640.

1/320 is better than nothin' for me.

gosundevils wrote in post #12523767
1/320 is better than nothin' for me.

But 1/320 vs 1/160-1/200 doesn't help for motion.

gosundevils wrote in post #12523233
Reducing ambient, yeah. Also to keep my flash powers under full so I can get a nice 1/1000 duration out of them and freeze motion for the few times I still shoot skateboarding. Definitely used it a lot with the 1D when shooting stuff like this:

Shot at sunset facing the sun. ISO100, 1/800, f/1.4.

Yep... just wanted to make sure you had a good understanding of what the capabilities and limitations were.

I find ControlTL/Hypersync works great for wide apertures where you don't want to over-expose the background... as long as your flash is within 5'-10' from your subject.

Contrary to naysayers, it can also work great in sports when you want to let your shutter speed freeze motion. Especially if you don't have sufficient flash power to overcome ambient by 2 or 3 stops. Or if you want fill flash in harsh sun. Again, the flash(es) have to be within reasonable distance to the subject. But I've also used a Better Beamer for getting a lot of reach with HSS (or better yet, the PW ControlTL/Hypersync optimization of HSS).

bobbyz wrote in post #12523843
But 1/320 vs 1/160-1/200 doesn't help for motion.

I know, but it works for getting less ambient in the exposure so I can shoot at lower flash power levels. The lower flash power level decreases the flash duration. My sunpaks at 1/2 have a duration of 1/1000sec. I use that to freeze motion.