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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 02 Jun 2011 (Thursday) 15:56
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KimM1313
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Jun 02, 2011 15:56 |  #1

I need help! i have read so much information and have followed it to a T! i'm trying to perfect my perfectly white background. I am using a canon 50d and have set all my studio lights as recommended on many blogs. But I am still getting a blue/purple cast on my floor....I have tried everything and I'm desperate! I have posted a before/after picture but it just takes too much time editing this problem in photoshop, I would love to hear any suggestions on how to fix it before hand. I set my custom white balance and I meter each of my lights to the recommended settings......HELP! thank you in advance :)


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The ­ Loft ­ Studios
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Jun 02, 2011 16:20 |  #2

Color Balance.....
You need to make sure that your Main Light (the light exposing the Subject) in properly Color Balanced. This is what is causing the "blueish" tone on the floor which is also why in the "corrected' version, the subject is slightly warm or yellowish - which is the opposite of blue.
These corrections can be done either in Camera or done as a Batch via Lightroom, PhotoShop or whatever Image Processing App that you choose to use.....


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bdillon
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Jun 02, 2011 16:32 |  #3

What you're seeing is difference in exposure, there's not enough light hitting the floor, and you can't really go chasing this by adding more light.....well, you can but it's really more work than needed. You need to do two things:

1. Light from a steeper angle or a bigger source so a little more spill light from the key hits the floor. I use a a 60 inch softbox and it still doesn't make it perfect. I usually correct it in post.

2. Invest in tile board. Extremely cheap and extremely helpful in your situation. In fact, you can read about it and your exact problem here:


http://www.zarias.com …next-post-this-afternoon/ (external link)




  
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abbadon31
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Jun 02, 2011 16:34 |  #4

Looks to me you have tin foil snoots on your strobes. I leave mine bare, umbrella, or barn door. You blocking light from spilling onto the floor from the strobes.


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dchen99
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Jun 02, 2011 16:48 |  #5

bdillon wrote in post #12524408 (external link)
2. Invest in tile board. Extremely cheap and extremely helpful in your situation. In fact, you can read about it and your exact problem here:


http://www.zarias.com …next-post-this-afternoon/ (external link)


+ 1


www.flashonstudio.com (external link)

  
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alphatango
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Jun 02, 2011 21:24 |  #6

I love tile board. $12 a sheet you can't go wrong, the reflection it gives off is a nice bonus.


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Wilt
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Jun 02, 2011 22:12 |  #7

bdillon wrote in post #12524408 (external link)
What you're seeing is difference in exposure, there's not enough light hitting the floor

^^^


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JakAHearts
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Jun 03, 2011 06:51 |  #8

I think it would help, if you have room, to move her away from the background and remove the snoots. Also, what tool are you using to lighten the floor in post?


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bdillon
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Jun 03, 2011 10:47 |  #9

JakAHearts wrote in post #12527785 (external link)
I think it would help, if you have room, to move her away from the background and remove the snoots. Also, what tool are you using to lighten the floor in post?

I know you're not asking me, but I add a levels adjustment layer, pump up the white, add a mask, fill it all in with black then switch to a white brush and mask in with a soft brush to maintain gradiated shadow edges.

You can do the same thing with curves by boosting highlights and masking.

You can also use the magic wand, refine the edge a little with some feathering (so you maintain gradiated shadow lines) and then fill it in with white paint.

Sometimes I use a combo of all three.




  
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John ­ Schell
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Jun 03, 2011 12:28 |  #10

Not to mention turning off any lights that aren't your strobes or modeling lights so their color doesn't bleed into your shot.


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KimM1313
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Jun 03, 2011 12:32 |  #11

bdillon wrote in post #12524408 (external link)
What you're seeing is difference in exposure, there's not enough light hitting the floor, and you can't really go chasing this by adding more light.....well, you can but it's really more work than needed. You need to do two things:

1. Light from a steeper angle or a bigger source so a little more spill light from the key hits the floor. I use a a 60 inch softbox and it still doesn't make it perfect. I usually correct it in post.

2. Invest in tile board. Extremely cheap and extremely helpful in your situation. In fact, you can read about it and your exact problem here:


http://www.zarias.com …next-post-this-afternoon/ (external link)

thanks so much, I have an alien bee 800 and a 36" octobox and I put it on full power plus I have a smaller watt light with an umbrella for fill...I used to use tile board but I was thinking the white vinyl would be less trouble....now I'm thinking you're right, need to go back to the board! thanks again :)




  
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KimM1313
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Jun 03, 2011 12:34 |  #12

JakAHearts wrote in post #12527785 (external link)
I think it would help, if you have room, to move her away from the background and remove the snoots. Also, what tool are you using to lighten the floor in post?

This was actually the first time I used the foil as snoots, I wasnt sure if the cast on the floor was overspill from my backlights so I tried the snoots. I use curves and levels in photoshop to adjust the color, it's just such a pain in the butt!




  
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KimM1313
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Jun 03, 2011 12:35 |  #13

bdillon wrote in post #12529046 (external link)
I know you're not asking me, but I add a levels adjustment layer, pump up the white, add a mask, fill it all in with black then switch to a white brush and mask in with a soft brush to maintain gradiated shadow edges.

You can do the same thing with curves by boosting highlights and masking.

You can also use the magic wand, refine the edge a little with some feathering (so you maintain gradiated shadow lines) and then fill it in with white paint.

Sometimes I use a combo of all three.


Hey I was asking anyone and everyone! thanks so much, cant wait to sit down and try this out :)




  
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KimM1313
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Location: Texas
     
Jun 03, 2011 12:36 |  #14

The Loft Studios wrote in post #12524334 (external link)
Color Balance.....
You need to make sure that your Main Light (the light exposing the Subject) in properly Color Balanced. This is what is causing the "blueish" tone on the floor which is also why in the "corrected' version, the subject is slightly warm or yellowish - which is the opposite of blue.
These corrections can be done either in Camera or done as a Batch via Lightroom, PhotoShop or whatever Image Processing App that you choose to use.....

Mark, How do I go about making sure my key light is "color balanced"? thanks so much!




  
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JakAHearts
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Jun 03, 2011 12:48 |  #15

Try using the dodge tool, set to highlights on a lighten blended layer to make the floor white. With a soft brush :D


Shane
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