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Thread started 08 Jun 2011 (Wednesday) 13:29
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Not a "what tripod" thread, but a "what tripod head" thread

 
peter_n
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Jun 09, 2011 10:12 |  #16

nigpd wrote in post #12563156 (external link)
My thinking is, a quality tripod deserves a quality head, and a quality head invariably means an expensive head

I think this is generally the case. Excellent design and very high quality construction costs money. The RRS and Markins ballheads get good grades for build quality and fit/finish as well as outstanding performance. My Z1 is beautifully built on top of its usability and amazing load specs. I have the expectation that my Z1 will last for 10-15 years (earlier A-S ballheads have) and so the higher initial cost is actually lower long-term. My 42 year-old Leica M2 is still going strong...


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ben_r_
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Jun 09, 2011 15:32 |  #17

Got a 3 series Gitzo? You want a Markins M20! Or maybe its Q20 now, thought I heard they changed the names recently...


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jrscls
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Jun 09, 2011 15:36 |  #18

+1 on the Markins Q20.


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Snydremark
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Jun 09, 2011 15:47 |  #19

I recently picked up the Markins Q20, myself, and love it. I'd say go look into one of those! :) The level lock really does and the ball is rock solid when locking/locked; it doesn't swoop/droop like the Manfrottos have a tendency to.

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- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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MR ­ do ­ little
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Jun 09, 2011 15:54 |  #20
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nigpd wrote in post #12558398 (external link)
In particular I am looking for the head, once set in a "nearly right" position, to have the facility of ease of fine adjustments in all directions for both landscape and for close ups when using my 100mm L f2.8 IS Macro.

What would you recommend?

Thanks in advance

Seems like the majority of the people giving you advice in this thread, disregarded the above....

For what you describe a geared head is the solution, Manfrotto makes two models 410 (smaller one) 405 big guy both which are excellent (i own and use both models) it will allows you to do quick rough adjustment by disengaging the gears and then release the quick lock to fine tune the position with the gears engaged.

If your after more expensive geared heads there are the cube and clones of it. Its however a open design and no possibility to disengage the gears for rough quick adjustments.


Regards
Paul L.

  
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Snydremark
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Jun 09, 2011 16:03 |  #21

We didn't disregard anything; The Markins allows the sort of adjustments that the OP asks for, as well


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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MR ­ do ­ little
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Jun 09, 2011 16:09 |  #22
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Snydremark wrote in post #12565538 (external link)
We didn't disregard anything; The Markins allows the sort of adjustments that the OP asks for, as well

No it doesn't not with the same precision, nor can you chose to just move one axis.


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Paul L.

  
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jrscls
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Jun 09, 2011 16:13 |  #23

Still sticking with the recommendation for the Markins Q20.


Sony A1, 24-70mm f/2.8 GM II, 70-200mm F/2.8 GM OSS II, 200-600mm f/5.6-6.3 G OSS, 35mm f/1.4 GM, Viltrox 16mm f/1.8, 1.4X TC, Flashpoint flashes

  
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Snydremark
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Jun 09, 2011 16:47 |  #24

MR do little wrote in post #12565581 (external link)
No it doesn't not with the same precision, nor can you chose to just move one axis.

I'd still stick with a Ball for range of motion and if real precision is necessary, a macro rail will give better control and range than either of these by themselves.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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aboss3
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Jun 09, 2011 16:49 |  #25
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I'm using Adorama Flashpoint F-2 for about a year now, and love it! Got it for a cheap $50 along with my $25 aluminum Induro A113 tripod. The combo was holding my 24-70 / 5D2 very well. The head looks very similar to Markins Q3. Might be rebranded?


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Jon
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Jun 09, 2011 22:14 |  #26

aboss3 wrote in post #12565811 (external link)
I'm using Adorama Flashpoint F-2 for about a year now, and love it! Got it for a cheap $50 along with my $25 aluminum Induro A113 tripod. The combo was holding my 24-70 / 5D2 very well. The head looks very similar to Markins Q3. Might be rebranded?

No, it's not. I have both. The Flashpoint F2 and F3 are solid, but they're definitely not the same as Markins Q3. That said, my main tripod head is the RRS BH-55. The Q3T isn't as nice (nor is the Markins lever release as nice as the RRS one) IMO. Still, for precise control, I'd go with a geared head. And definitely not a pistol-grip style like the Manfrotto 32x series.


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effstop
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Jun 09, 2011 22:36 |  #27

I've been really happy with the Kirk BH-3 and if you want a more robust head the BH-1 will do the trick.


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HelenOster
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Jun 09, 2011 23:23 |  #28

aboss3 wrote in post #12565811 (external link)
I'm using Adorama Flashpoint F-2 for about a year now, and love it! .....Might be rebranded?

Delighted to hear you are so pleased with Flashpoint from Adorama - but the answer is, no it isn't!



  
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MR ­ do ­ little
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Jun 09, 2011 23:49 |  #29
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Snydremark wrote in post #12565797 (external link)
I'd still stick with a Ball for range of motion and if real precision is necessary, a macro rail will give better control and range than either of these by themselves.

He wasn't after fluid motion, not many landscape and macro shooters are.

You just got the Markins, so i wonder how much experience you actually have with a geared head like the 410 or the 405 ?

Iv owned the ballhead you recommend, and while good for being a ballhead it's still no where near the practical use of a geared head for someone who needs precision and the ability to just move ONE axis at a time.


Regards
Paul L.

  
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Snydremark
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Jun 10, 2011 01:04 |  #30

MR do little wrote in post #12568055 (external link)
He wasn't after fluid motion, not many landscape and macro shooters are.

You just got the Markins, so i wonder how much experience you actually have with a geared head like the 410 or the 405 ?

Iv owned the ballhead you recommend, and while good for being a ballhead it's still no where near the practical use of a geared head for someone who precision and the ability to just move ONE axis at a time.

(Hopefully this discussion is germane enough to the original question that this isn't a derail) Honestly...none. I've used pan/tilt/swivel heads before though, and I really don't get how having finer control there is any better...it always seemed more limited in what positions I *could* get the camera into than with a ball head

What sort of scenarios does this come in handy for?


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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Not a "what tripod" thread, but a "what tripod head" thread
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